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Originally Posted by s0uljah
I have the older 6.5" JBL comps for the front, will run that of my old alpine 240  |
Yeah, that's good to go with the JBL comps, no sweat at all.
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Originally Posted by s0uljah Your right about the sub, I dont plan on blowing it at all. After having to make do with the bass from the rear 6x9" for the last 1.5 years its time to treat myself to some nice subtle bass. My friend is allready excited about "blowing" up the neighbourhood but none of that for me... I just wanted to be able to get that little extra at those well constructed break-downs... |
If I read correctly in a previous post, you have too little power coming from the amp to actually 'blow' your sub. You'll just about have enough to get the 15" guy going. And that should be fine, I think. Just match the gains right and you should never run into clipping. Music sounds awful when you get to that.
Although not indicated in the plot, I would suppose that the recommended ported enclosure would lend some more spl in the bass without more input power, could be a good option if you think you could precisely supervise a carpenter. We have the box diagrams anyway, and all you need to verify the job is a measuring tape.
For the front (and this part is really important for house-boys, I am one), don't make a pod that doesn't open out into the door. Use the door's volume, and damp the door really well. The door usually resonates at the same frequency as the kick-line in most electronic music, and you hear like a muffled thud, accompanied by a whirring sound.. that is irritating. It should be nice, crisp and agile. One good way is to give plenty of power and ensure headroom (kicks are actually smaller transients, and take up the most continuous power when playing a dance music-ish waveform). Cut it nice and low on the crossover, like 80 Hz (you can cut off any 6" comp at 80 Hz, it only limits its loudness as compared to cutting off higher, hence use a powerful amp). Next, make sure you don't have air-leakages from the sides of the pod/ ring/ door panel. You should seal this after all the reinforcement went in.
Next, play with the subs cut-off frequency and slope till you find the sound as integrated as possible. Theoretically, if the comps are rolling off at 80Hz, it should be likewise for the sub so that their -3dB points co-incide. However, in reality, you may find that results vary thanks to the car's cabin help. Its also useful to have a head unit that allows you to use different slopes on the crossover.
Having done all this right, you should have a stomping system.