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Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble Those terminals are too fancy. You can get good ones from MX for far far cheaper. The one in the pic is a bi-wire cup, you need just two terminals (the sub is a SVC, right?). More money saved, credit to damping account.  |
Your right, thata bi-wireable binding post terminal. Pic was to just give an idea of the terminal.... Of course If I were to buy it would be for a single sub application... would cost me 400 bux. Please provide a link or some info regarding the MX connectors you mentioned ??
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Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble The baffle in the picture will not be required in your case. You will need a speaker ring with the exact sized speaker-sized cut-out. |
Can use MDF rings for this........25 mm thickness good enough ?
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Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble By sealing, I meant that the edges of the door panel be lined with a sealant to avoid air from the door coming into the cabin. Of course the speaker edge should be sealed too, to avoid front/ back wave cancellations. |
Will need to specify this if im at a local installer... thanks for pointing it out.
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Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble No Time Alignment |
Yeah... no TA. Otherwise this hu pretty much kicks ***! I toyed with the idea of upgrading and had my eyes on an alpine. wont happen though. Not going to be able to spend anything on replacing HU anytime soon....
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Now coming to a fresh question for the installers / DIY chaps here.... have you ever fitted fans to facilitate cooling down amps ?? Along with using atleast 4 gauge wirie (or thicker!!!) I was told to try and do this if possible. Get a 3" fan with atleast 0.14amp power
At the same time Im hoping to be able to mount the amp beneath the front so as to save wiring cost and also I guess it wont cause voltage drops.. so fitting a fan doesnt seem like it will be possible under the front seat !