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Originally Posted by hydrashok  Y-connector: Your HU probably had only one pre-out and that must be why you needed a Y-connector. Could you confirm the one pre-out thing? It is important, as if there is only one pre-out, you won't have the fader facility from the HU, and the front-rear balance will have to be set properly at the amp end. |
I don't know enough technical details to know this but I found the installation instructions booklet and here's a grab from there. Looks like a single pre-out -- the cable I'm using is plugged into both on the HU end.
Before I got this equipment plugged in, I could use the HU to dictate the front-rear balance. I have no idea what this means in the current context but I hope it helps.
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Originally Posted by hydrashok The 6x9s are coaxials. But you really didn't need 6x9s in the back as you have a sub there. A 6.5" or even a 5.25" coaxial would have been enough. But that said, the advantage you now have is that you will get decent bass even if you remove the sub to carry luggage for a long trip. |
Good point. Hadn't thought of that. The only reason I didn't go in for a 6.5" coaxial was because the dealer I purchased and got the stuff installed from kept insisting that running them on the amp would destroy them. I was going on a trip the next day and didn't have time to check up here -- so I just swallowed it and got the 6x9s installed. Now it'll come handy in those family trips where the volume needs to be low and boot needs to contain luggage.
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Originally Posted by hydrashok Find out at what frequency the output to the sub is crossed over at. Anything higher than 80Hz will cause the bass to be pulled back. |
When you say "what frequency the output to the sub is crossed over at" you are asking me the LPF frequency, right? It seems to be something around 80-100Hz -- I can't tell for sure because the guy who installed it had no clue when I asked him this question. I tried checking the amp and it has a dial and I'm approximating this value from there though it could be much higher than that as well. I'm not really sure how to find it out for sure.
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Originally Posted by hydrashok What kind of box is the sub in? A ported box will be fine with the 60.4. Can you post a pic of the box? |
It's ported. Here's the pic:
It's too high for M800 and doesn't let me close the boot door close properly. It's just not nicely made. I'm hoping to get it changed from Delhi (see below).
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Originally Posted by hydrashok Yes. Coaxials can go on amps. Absolutely nothing wrong with co-axials being fed by amps. In fact most of us have coaxials being fed by amps (at least in the back). |
Are there different type of coaxials? I mean, are there coaxials that can be amped and coaxials that cannot be amped? Like I mentioned above, the dealer insisted on not installing a particular model (I'm forgetting which) saying it was not amp-ready. I know I'm repeating myself and I think I already know the answer too but at the moment I'm educating myself and there is no such thing as a stupid question. :-P
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Originally Posted by hydrashok Even the 4" coaxes in the dash will make a big difference. Go for the GTO 4" coaxes and power them from the amp. Power the sub from the other two channels (and not the 6x9s). Run the 6x9s off the HU. |
I have decided not to purchase any more equipment from the guy I bought it from mainly because he has a lousy installer. I'll probably come to Delhi to get the audio equipment properly re-installed.
I wasn't able to find anybody who was even aware of what 'damping' means other than this guy and he recommended using wool carpeting (no wonder it was only costing 1k).
Recommendations on who I should go to who can do the whole deal -- damping and re-installation of the audio equipment + add/configure front sound?
@Navin: Thanks for the clarifications and additional input.
@low_Bass_makker: Thanks!
Here's two more pics to look at how the set up looks:
Nothing great for most of you guys but I'm excited about it nevertheless.