How to live with a CJ340 or similar Jeep?

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Alfa Kilo - you are absolutely correct.

Dear Sharath - please tell Richie's workshop to check for centralization of parts and correct as per workshop manual instructions, your vehicle will become OK. By the way, who canged the tie rods? Richie's guys will not make such a mistake.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[Samurai]

No, it wasn't the M&M workshop. Since it was a simple task, I gave it to my neighbourhood workshop. He generally does a decent job, this is a little surprising.

Alfa_Kilo, I have posted the bellcrank end of it. I need a wider lens to get the whole part, will do that later.

[Samurai]

I took two more shots with a wider lens. I want to understand this problem clearly before approaching the mechanic.

[MM440]

Originally Posted by Samurai

I took two more shots with a wider lens. I want to understand this problem clearly before approaching the mechanic.

Hi Sharath,
Here's what I can best suggest.
1> Go to your mechanic's( the guy who fitted it)
2> Call me and give him the phone .
3> Will discuss and instruct him based on what he has done in the first place.
4> Have him explain to you ,the corrections he will carry out
5> Other wise we would need pics of the the following.
a> Steering box assembly with drop arm in wheels centred position.
b> Steering stoppers with wheels turned to full in each direction.
Cheers
Jammy

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Jammy - absolutely correct Sir.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[Samurai]

Will do that tomorrow Jammy.

[Alfa_Kilo]

I cant see anything wrong in the pics.

Does yout steering have ball joints similar to the tie rod ends at the end of the longitudinal tie rod between the steering box and the bellcrank? If it has, then a grease nipple could be hitting the right damper top mount when the bell crank arm moves forward as you turn left. There are variations in the sizes of grease nipples and tie rod ends between different vendors. Check if the bell crank arm can move above the shock absorber mount freely.

PS: Some of the split pins for the tie rod ends are not bent, and the grease nipples are not alinged properly. Did the mechanics use hammers to remove the old ball joints?

[Samurai]

Today I called the Mechanic, and 10 minutes later he was at office to pick up the Jeep. [I know some of you may be rolling your eyes, but that's small town advantage for you.]

Before I reached the parking lot he had already replicated the problem. There is also a khatak sound when twisting the steering. He opened the hood and watched the steering box when I turned the steering lock-to-lock. The steering box actually moves up and down, he blamed it on a loose screw.

Here is a video, notice the sound at 38th and 48th second.

YouTube - Steering box video of CJ340

I also gave the printout of Behram's instructions to him. He read it carefully and then took the Jeep away.

[kavesh55]

Originally Posted by Samurai

Will do that tomorrow Jammy.

Hi Samurai,

Checking your thread since quite some time. Truly appreciate your perseverance.

[Samurai]

Just 20 minutes back I remembered the Jeep. As I was thinking about calling, I get a call from the reception saying my Jeep is back.

A bolt on the steering box was almost broken, that was replaced, that took care of the khatak sound problem and the movement in the steering box.

Regarding the turning problem, he is not very sure. He says he had placed the bell crank exactly like the previous one, going by a marking. So he feels centralization is not the issue. He also suspected the alignment guys overdoing something. They had turned the tie-rod during the alignment, see the scratch in the center in the horizontal tie-rod.

He turned the front tie-rod couple extra turns and adjusted couple of nuts and has improved the turning radius. By how much is still a question. It feels much better, but I still need to check it by turning in and out of my home. He charged 60 bucks for the work, pickup and drop complimentary.

If the problem persists, I'll have to take it to Mahindra Workshop. That means 250 bucks just for the auto charges to go up and down. In addition the labour charges are much higher. Now you know why I use the local mechanic for small works.

[4x4 loaded]

Originally Posted by nitrous

2.Oil bath type air filter assembly.
4.Fuel filter assembly with priming device.
5. Headlight Relay
11. Oil filter
12.valve door cap/oil filler cap with breather.
14. Another relay -horn,i guess
15. Fuel injection pump.

This was the second post in this thread..what is the difference between an oil filter and the fuel filter.. Sorry for getting a bit offcourse

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Originally Posted by 4x4 loaded

This was the second post in this thread..what is the difference between an oil filter and the fuel filter.. Sorry for getting

Oil filter filders engine oil circulating inside the engine.

Fuel filter filters fuel flowing into the ifuel pump. It is located between the tank and the fuel pump. Depending on the make and system, there would be two filters with three filter elements between them. First has the pre filter and filter "elements", together making an assembley, and another "micro" filter near the fuel pump.

[Samurai]

Yesterday while I was talking to Vinay Thomas, he wondered why the tie-rods appear to be so close to the drums. Even I am little confused, somehow I can't remember how close it was before.

[Brutus]

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR

Oil filter filders engine oil circulating inside the engine.

Fuel filter filters fuel flowing into the ifuel pump. It is located between the tank and the fuel pump. Depending on the make and system, there would be two filters with three filter elements between them. First has the pre filter and filter "elements", together making an assembley, and another "micro" filter near the fuel pump.

Probably the most neglected component in the fuel filteration system in India is the water separator. Most of the dabwalli jeeps dont even have them. In contrast, even the "desi" made gensets powered by tractor motors have them.

Then as far as the oil filteration system is concerned, again there are very few "Indian engines" that use a secondary micro filter along with the main primary one. Infact, it is in dusty conditions like in our country that the mirco filter is the most necessary. Only the engines designed and licence sold by foreign companies like detroit diesel(powers the hyndai line, maybe others too), or toyotas, and some more motors have these things, although i'am not sure that even they have it in all their engines.

[DirtyDan]

Originally Posted by brutus

Infact, it is in dusty conditions like in our country that the mirco filter is the most necessary. Only the engines designed and licence sold by foreign companies like detroit diesel(powers the hyndai line, maybe others too), or toyotas, and some more motors have these things, although i'am not sure that even they have it in all their engines.

In North America the big name in after market secondary filter systems is Amsoil. Amsoil also makes synthetic oil. I think they may be in India now, I am not sure. Here is an interesting link on their products.

AMSOIL - Ea By-Pass Oil Filters (EaBP)

Some people have fabbed similar systems on their own using toilet paper rolls as the filter. No joke. I am not sure whether they go for 1 ply or 2 ply, scented or unscented.