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Old 30th October 2010, 22:57   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nilesh5417 View Post
I've only started looking for a used gypsy and its mind boggling to see how far you guys have already pushed the envelope! This one is awesome as it is and you already see the need to improve.

I'm no techie but from the very first picture in your post, it looks like the jeep is climbing down a set of stairs, 1 tyre at a time! Like us humans! Great stuff!!!!

From the options you listed and chose, wouldnt (2) be easier to work out? Also, isnt extended wheelbase not a very +ve outcome for offroading?
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Originally Posted by khan_sultan View Post
Yes, #2 option is easier for LWB Gypsy



In US, the Gypsy that you get is SWB and invariably all mods that involve height increase do result in increasing the WB of the US Gypsy to get more stability.
Please correct me if I am wrong, but the WB is the distance between the front and rear wheels. And the Indian Gypsy just has longer rear overhang. There is no change in Wheelbase. So the stability is more or less the same, just give or take few extra kilos in the rear.

I am missing something here?
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Old 2nd November 2010, 10:37   #17
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Originally Posted by wanderhermit View Post
Please correct me if I am wrong, but the WB is the distance between the front and rear wheels. And the Indian Gypsy just has longer rear overhang. There is no change in Wheelbase. So the stability is more or less the same, just give or take few extra kilos in the rear.

I am missing something here?
wanderhermit - In the US you get SWB samurai's which have about 6" lesser distance between the front and rear wheels - you will notice the same when you compare the side profile pics and see the location of the rear mudguard - this is in addition (or subtraction) of the rear overhang. therefore making the samurai's length much smaller!!
just google for images of samurai


cheers
GB

Last edited by Gypsy-Boy : 2nd November 2010 at 10:38.
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Old 2nd November 2010, 13:16   #18
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Originally Posted by khan_sultan View Post
There are various ways to go about it and the 2 possible ways are:
  • Move the axle a bit forward (extending the wheelbase)
  • Modify the leaf attachment points
Both have their own +ve/-ve aspects and I have chosen to go go ahead with the 2nd approach.

The fabrication of few required parts has started and this should be ready soon
Khan Sahab,
There was a third option too, I could get the front leaf springs fabricated for you here, with the right spring rating and 3" shorter eye to eye to suit your front.

But I guess the adapter plate was a better idea as if you break the spring, all you need to do is remove and fit the standard rear to the front.
Are you done after this??
Regards,

Last edited by fazalaliadil : 2nd November 2010 at 13:22.
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Old 2nd November 2010, 13:25   #19
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^^^ This did not work out, so was thrown out and moved back to the stock leaf's in front.
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Old 2nd November 2010, 13:35   #20
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^^^ This did not work out, so was thrown out and moved back to the stock leaf's in front.
But what was the reason it didn't work out? Wrong tension, flex?
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Old 4th November 2010, 18:39   #21
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IIRC the springs were going into negative camper, the steering rod was touching the spring and finally the shackles went flat after a day. We will wait for Khan to explain further, i think he is travelling now.
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Old 8th November 2010, 10:18   #22
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Originally Posted by Jaggu View Post
IIRC the springs were going into negative camper, the steering rod was touching the spring and finally the shackles went flat after a day. We will wait for Khan to explain further, i think he is travelling now.

@Jaggu,

I think springs going into Negative camper can be sorted by additing extra leaf but i am not able to to understand how come the ROD was touching leaf springs?? Moutings were just pushed little behind right?? position remains the same. correct me if i am wrong.

In my SPOA setup as of now my shocks are stopping the articulation. i need to fix that first. looking for some desi options for now.

@Khan you inspire lot of people here. Its good to know that your R&D is not yet over even after owning the best gypsy in country.

One suggestion, Try missing link shackels (known as drop link or revolving shackels). i am sure it will increase the articulation. it has worked in my case.
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Old 26th March 2011, 10:29   #23
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Default Re: Gypsy on Steroids: Rear Up Front (RUF) Suspension modification

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Originally Posted by Rossi View Post
I am getting really exicited with this thread.

But I would still vouch for the CFL's. The amount of on-road stability is mind-blowing on high speeds!

Have been informed by Dr. Pawar that the re-inforced frontones with off-road tolerance are ready & will be shipped to me this week .
Rossi

Please update on how the front CFLs are performing. Any mishaps due to weakness of CFL? or breakages. Will these wihstand mild to somewhat moderate offroading?

What improves about handling with front CFLs over the stock ones?

I am planning on getting CFLs hence feedback will be appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 3rd April 2011, 21:56   #24
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Default Re: Gypsy on Steroids: Rear Up Front (RUF) Suspension modification

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Originally Posted by Ragul View Post
Rossi

Please update on how the front CFLs are performing. Any mishaps due to weakness of CFL? or breakages. Will these wihstand mild to somewhat moderate offroading?

What improves about handling with front CFLs over the stock ones?

I am planning on getting CFLs hence feedback will be appreciated.

Thanks
Go for the front CFL's -- if Dr Nano is saying that they have improved these over the past 4 months. However, for precaution sake, do carry the spare set with you.

PS: I have broken 3 sets of front CFL's and would not mind trying them again.
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