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Old 11th May 2010, 16:55   #91
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DKG, I have a 207 too.

Best is to extend the rear with 12 mm steel plates that come out from under the chassis over the ladder and support it back to the chassis with a L angle support. This 12 inches or so should not be much of a problem especially if you can manage to have the wheels sit in pre fabricated arches. This way your 207 with the wheel stand attached would be rigid and you could jack and remove the wheel stand and drive down your jeep!!

cheers
The idea appeals to me Vikram. Do you think its worth trying? So far everyone I talk to here discourages me saying its ridiculous to load a Jeep on a 207. I don't know why they say that. The 207 is officially rated for 1300 kgs and in practice is good for well over 2 tons.

BTW I thought a simpler way to do it is simply lay heavy guage U channels on the bed and drive the Jeep onto the channels which will support the wheels at the rear. The tail gate can be just lifted flush with the channel to look proper. Infact if I hinge the channel on a roller and use a winch I could even load the Jeep by driving it up the channel and pulling it onto the bed using a winch

Last edited by DKG : 11th May 2010 at 16:58.
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Old 11th May 2010, 17:06   #92
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I think its a good worthwhile experiment. If you dont have much to loose - GO FOR IT..
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Old 11th May 2010, 17:08   #93
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How much would the rear of a Jeep weigh? It should be light enough for two strong men to lift off the ground?
No DKG, even 4 men would not be sufficient. One man with his both hands can lift only the diff housing on one side when the wheels are removed. Believe me its damn heavy. Just a differentail crown and the cage weighs like anything in a JEEP.
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Old 11th May 2010, 17:15   #94
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Originally Posted by ex670c View Post
Did you fit the Bracketing for the Towing Shackles before mounting the winch?
Right now winch plate is not mounted, but I am planning to do that soon. Why do you ask?

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Thank you Sir. Now Samurai might agree with what i tried saying in non engineering terms
Now I agree because Behram explained in term of structural mechanics. I had flunked structural mechanics in 2nd year because I was not paying attention (I was in E&C branch). In the next chance, I fell ill and missed the exam. I finally had to take it with 3rd year finals. And I can't go to 4th year if a 2nd year paper is pending. So I studied like crazy for structural mechanics and got really good marks for somebody who had flunked it first time. In that process I also came to understand topic very well.

My initial idea was to install it in front of the long member, but I couldn't find a way to secure it. Besides there were bolt-heads jutting out and the eyelet had a flat surface on the back.

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Everyone keeps telling me its a stupid idea So I just drive! But I like the idea of a Jeep being taken to the site while you enjoy the comforts of a SUV on the highway. Most hardcore offroaders with dedicated extreme offroad machines do this. Only thing is they use proper trailers
You'll probably be stopped at every check-post mistaking you for a commercial carrier. That will be the real problem.
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Old 11th May 2010, 17:34   #95
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Does the bed fall short with the jeep reversed in?

If not should make your life easier and only the front bumper will jut out if parked in reverse. You can use steel ladders to drive her into the 207 You can easily come up with some rigid hook set up and safety wires to hold the vehicle in place. Take down the top to make it more aerodynamic and less of CG.

Wow let me stop.
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Old 11th May 2010, 21:42   #96
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Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM View Post
Dear Sharath - drilling of chassis in field for whatever aplication is not recommended as a general recommendation (before I start getting hammered again). There will be a lot of thrust on the front bumper when you use the towing device that you have manufactured as the towing point is not concentric with the long member. I would have provided a towing hook on the top of the long member to prevent expected damage on the bumper due to high thrust on long members (see the CL340 classic application, this was a regulatory requirement for Europe in 1997). I know that you have to mount the winch there but still it could be attempted and executed.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
Dear Sharath, It is always good to have the eyelet in line with the main chasis which will avoid unnecessary moment on the front bumper( as in the case of the present mounting). The two eyelet clamping bolt pitch is sized to fix in line with the main chasis with two braces on either side which can be clamped with a single bolt in shear. But considering that you will be having the winch mounted on the main frame which will give adequate rigidity from buckling in, the current arrangement also will suffice.
regards,
Suresh

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Originally Posted by Samurai
My initial idea was to install it in front of the long member, but I couldn't find a way to secure it. Besides there were bolt-heads jutting out and the eyelet had a flat surface on the back.
Dear sharath,
If you machine a small relief on the back side of the eyelet ( I have done that in mine and missed that operation in yours- my fault), You can still assemble it in line if you wish.
Suresh

Last edited by Samurai : 11th May 2010 at 22:23. Reason: back-to-back post
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Old 11th May 2010, 22:11   #97
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If it weren't for the fun I have driving the CJ3B all over I would have attempted carting it in the 207. I would love to drive it up to the Himalayas someday, anyone game? Can you imagine my mother at 81 says "We really should drive up to Kashmir in this car"
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Old 11th May 2010, 22:25   #98
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Thanks Suresh, once I get the Jeep back in Manipal, I'll try re-locating the eyelet.
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Old 11th May 2010, 23:57   #99
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I would love to drive it up to the Himalayas someday, anyone game?
You know what, i will take you up on this. I also want to do it, someday! someday!
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Old 12th May 2010, 00:59   #100
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You know what, i will take you up on this. I also want to do it, someday! someday!
Jaggu, step by step! As of now, your jeep has given permission to drive only until Ramamurthy nagar signal and then u-turn back to Raju.

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Old 12th May 2010, 10:22   #101
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You know what, i will take you up on this. I also want to do it, someday! someday!
Now that's the spirit. Lets make that trip happen. I am sure Arka will join us too, had discussed this with him in Bangalore.

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Jaggu, step by step! As of now, your jeep has given permission to drive only until Ramamurthy nagar signal and then u-turn back to Raju.

Give him a break sir ! He's sorting it out for supreme reliability
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Old 12th May 2010, 10:54   #102
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- use a flat bed to tow your jeep
Impractical due to cost and parking considerations.
How much will it cost if you use old old van chassis, etc? Not much. And you can always park your jeep on top of it. Just a thought.

Quote:
- use FWHs on rear wheels as well.
They are fitted only for the front wheels. I dont know why - google's not throwing up anything. We need the local google masters to shed light on this.
Forget google masters. Common sense says it's possible and the cheapest alternative. Agreed, this is another part that can go wrong but you can always carry the fixed flanges and replace on the spot. Again can anyone throw more light on this?

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First, we have to understand why TUGS exist. Tugs exist because the towing system gets slack. In a rigid A frame tow bar, it is rigid - it is not slack. A rigid system will not contribute to tugs.
Tug also happens in a fixed bar if you are using shackles and the pintle hook to connect because there will be some play. Ideally one needs to use a towing dolly (with the round ball head) to connect the head of the A frame to the towing vehicle. Note: these towing dollies are not rated for snatch and recovery.

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Lastly, your differentials will heat excessively up only if the speed at which you travel is a LOT more than the drivetrain is rated for. If kept within JEEP speeds, the DIFF will heat up like it would if you drive it.
Yes. See the links i provided. They say that after every hour or so, you need to stop, and run your engine for a while. Why i don't know. Can anyone elaborate?

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Just engage neutral on the transfer case and neutral on the gearbox, make sure your steering box has no issues and keep driving.
Also you will need to make sure that the steering does not lock. You will need to have the key in all the time in unlock position (applies only to jeeps with a steering lock).

Quote:
The ONLY thing I am worried about is if the gear lever slips into gear whilst towing. That can be catastrophic.
How will it slip? While moving if the clutch is not pressed, it should not go into gear... it will make the krrrr sound that's all.
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Old 12th May 2010, 11:35   #103
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Gear slips can happen and cant be catastrophic, especially in our pot hole ridden roads. Best is to some lock mechanism to hold the levers in place.
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Old 12th May 2010, 12:35   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samurai View Post
Right now winch plate is not mounted, but I am planning to do that soon. Why do you ask?

My initial idea was to install it in front of the long member, but I couldn't find a way to secure it. Besides there were bolt-heads jutting out and the eyelet had a flat surface on the back.
Hi Sharath,

In case you decide to fit a Winch then, the Brackets, will not be required, as you can use the Winch-Plate to do a similar job.

For reference you can see how the PTO Winches were fitted on the CJ3A/CJ3Bs.

There are 2 Kinds of Mounts/Winch Plate.

i) Low Mount - Within the Chassis ( CJ3B's). as the CJ3B Chassis, Narrows and their is a step before the Bumper.

ii) High Mount - Above the Chassis (Suitable for MM540) the Chassis is Flat upto the bumper.

Its difficult to install the Shaktiman D-Ring on the Bumper, inline with the Long Member, because their is a Bolt on either Long Members to align with the Bumper, if we do away with that bolt .

However we can have a discussion as to which is better Between the Long Members vs Outside the Chassis.

Regards,

Arka
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Old 12th May 2010, 12:41   #105
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Gear slips can happen and cant be catastrophic, especially in our pot hole ridden roads. Best is to some lock mechanism to hold the levers in place.
@Jaggu:
Unless the GB is buggered, the gears cannot slip into gear from neutral
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