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Old 12th May 2010, 12:43   #106
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Default Flat Tow

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Originally Posted by Tejas@perioimpl View Post
Forget google masters. Common sense says it's possible and the cheapest alternative. Agreed, this is another part that can go wrong but you can always carry the fixed flanges and replace on the spot. Again can anyone throw more light on this?
Hi Tejas,

A Free-Wheeling Hubs is only possible on a FFRA .

Or Just remove the Rear Axle Shaft and fit a dust cover.

For Flat Towing over Long Distances
1) Disconnect Battery
2) FWH for Front Axle
3) FFRA and Remove Axle Shaft.
4) Tow the vehicle Reversed Tow Hook - Tow Hook, this will negate the self steering effect to a great extent.

Regards,

Arka
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Old 12th May 2010, 13:02   #107
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How much will it cost if you use old old van chassis, etc? Not much. And you can always park your jeep on top of it. Just a thought.
You forget RC related issues. Go across the state and you are finished.

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Originally Posted by Tejas@perioimpl View Post
Forget google masters. Common sense says it's possible and the cheapest alternative. Agreed, this is another part that can go wrong but you can always carry the fixed flanges and replace on the spot. Again can anyone throw more light on this?
This really is turning out to make more sense. The only reason why we dont use FWH on the rear is because our wheels are powered by the rear and unlocking them makes sense only when flat-towing - which we hardly do around here. But why havent I read about this anywhere else in the world where flat towing is very normal?

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Tug also happens in a fixed bar if you are using shackles and the pintle hook to connect because there will be some play. Ideally one needs to use a towing dolly (with the round ball head) to connect the head of the A frame to the towing vehicle. Note: these towing dollies are not rated for snatch and recovery.
You are talking about half inch of play. And that play can be controlled if you accelerate and decelerate gradually - which is an art whilst towing. I am veering towards using a towing dolly on my tow-car however.


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Yes. See the links i provided. They say that after every hour or so, you need to stop, and run your engine for a while. Why i don't know. Can anyone elaborate?
So that the oil lubricates all moving parts? If your drive-shaft is connected and you move the vehicle in-gear, i suppose thats why they do it.


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How will it slip? While moving if the clutch is not pressed, it should not go into gear... it will make the krrrr sound that's all.
You are lucky not to have a gear slip. Anything can happen in a JEEP. Better to be prepared.
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Old 12th May 2010, 13:05   #108
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Originally Posted by ex670c View Post
Hi Tejas,

A Free-Wheeling Hubs is only possible on a FFRA .

Or Just remove the Rear Axle Shaft and fit a dust cover.

For Flat Towing over Long Distances
1) Disconnect Battery
2) FWH for Front Axle
3) FFRA and Remove Axle Shaft.
4) Tow the vehicle Reversed Tow Hook - Tow Hook, this will negate the self steering effect to a great extent.

Regards,

Arka
Aha! now this is an excellent reason to convert to an FFRA!

Can you explain a bit about the reversed tow hook and how it negates steering effect?

Plus, can someone throw light on the damage that could be done to the steering box? The pressure you exert from the steering wheel to the wheels on the ground is minimal to turn them around, but try twisting the wheels below to have the steering rotate and the pressure you need to apply is a LOT to say the least.

This reverse energy - what effect will it have on our steering boxes?
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Old 12th May 2010, 13:06   #109
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@Jaggu:
Unless the GB is buggered, the gears cannot slip into gear from neutral
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You are lucky not to have a gear slip. Anything can happen in a JEEP. Better to be prepared.
and yup its a jeep thing!

But seriously when i went through the threads there were many who commented that disconnecting the shaft is not required. Especially if its not high speed, which will definitely be the case here in India.
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Old 12th May 2010, 13:33   #110
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A Free-Wheeling Hubs is only possible on a FFRA .
Another reason for me to buy the MM550XD?

But on a serious note: Why is it only possible on FFRA? What is the science or mechanics or local juggad theory behind it? I remember reading it on jeepthrills forum as well.
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Old 12th May 2010, 14:11   #111
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Default 2 Piece FFRA

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Another reason for me to buy the MM550XD?

But on a serious note: Why is it only possible on FFRA? What is the science or mechanics or local juggad theory behind it? I remember reading it on jeepthrills forum as well.
Hi Tejas,

Not a MM550XD but NGCS MM550XD.

FFRA conversions are not Jugaads, they are taken for scrapped M&M Vehicles. Either the Axles/Spindles and Hubs are use, or the entire Diff Assy.

For CJ3B (48.5" Track) we use 2 Piece FFRA from CJ500D-101

For MM540 (51" Track) we use 2 Piece FFRA from Commander 750DP and their likes.

What has to be checked is the Differential Offset and the subsequent Axle Lengths.

Interestingly, the CJ500D-101 has a Left Offset Diff, but the Long and Short Axles can be interchanged on a CJ3B (Right Off-Set).

In a 2 Piece FFRA, the axle has 19 Splines on either ends, remove the Hub Flange and the vehicle will free-wheel.

This is because the Axle connects the Diff to the Wheels, the final link is the Hub Flange (19 Splines)

Regards,

Arka
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Old 12th May 2010, 14:25   #112
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A little info from the web on after market options to use while towing with 4 wheels down:

Remco's Axle-Lock | Remco Towing

Remco's Lube Pump | Remco Towing

Ofcourse, none of us will use it, but it does present interesting options.

@ Arka,

But why can't the FWHs be fitted on SFRA? I still don't understand.
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Old 12th May 2010, 14:29   #113
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Default Semi-Floating

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@ Arka,

But why can't the FWHs be fitted on SFRA? I still don't understand.
Hi Tejas,

In a Full-Floating Axle the Wheels are bolted on a Hub which sits on the Axle, on top of 2 Bearings. This assembly is held together by a Flange.

In a Semi-Floating Axle the the Wheel is Bolted on to the Axle, and the Wheel Bearing in inside the Axle Tube.

Regards,

Arka
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Old 12th May 2010, 14:31   #114
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Hi Tejas,

In a Full-Floating Axle the Wheels are bolted on a Hub which sits on the Axle, on top of 2 Bearings. This assembly is held together by a Flange.

In a Semi-Floating Axle the the Wheel is Bolted on to the Axle, and the Wheel Bearing in inside the Axle Tube.

Regards,

Arka
Ah! Now i get it. Thanks.
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Old 12th May 2010, 14:32   #115
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But why can't the FWHs be fitted on SFRA? I still don't understand.
That is because, in a SFRA, if the axle breaks the entire wheel and axle touch the ground. In a FFRA, if the axle breaks, you can still drive the vehicle as the wheels dont come off the vehicle, only the drive is lost.

Fitting a FWH in a SFRA rear might not serve the intended purpose.
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Old 25th May 2010, 23:52   #116
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This is the one design i tried, its worked fine in flat towing,

Attached Thumbnails
Towing a broken down 4x4-img00321.jpg  

Towing a broken down 4x4-img00320.jpg  


Last edited by swastikviji : 25th May 2010 at 23:56.
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Old 26th May 2010, 10:49   #117
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Speeding jeeper no 2! Looks awesome Viji
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Old 26th May 2010, 10:54   #118
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This is the one design i tried, its worked fine in flat towing,
Excellent Viji. Now if you can make that bar hook directly onto the main frame members you have the best possible tow bar on a Jeep !! I will be making something like this eventually for my car. Hook it on during OTR season and remove it when the fun is over

PS you might want to use a thicker rod for the loop that goes into the pintle hook?

Last edited by DKG : 26th May 2010 at 10:56.
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Old 26th May 2010, 11:03   #119
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This design is for Viji to attach and detach the set up easily to his zillion jeeps which lay scattered around bangalore For perm attachment he has different design.
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