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Old 4th April 2010, 10:05   #1
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Arrow Jeeps - Rust, Body decay and treatment

Hi,

This is my first post to Team BHP - hoping to get deeper insights on the topic of Mahindra Jeeps in India's coastal / heavy rain drenched climate cities and rust, body decay, and their treatment / prevention.

I've noticed these areas to be most susceptible in MM5x class Jeeps :
- Underside of body tub
- Overside of body tub
- Chassis (rare, but I've seen it happen)
- Areas surrounding the windshield (especially around windshield joints)
- {Add to this list as needed}

TBHP maestros please share your thoughts on the treatments / prevention

Hoping this could serve as a checklist / how-to of sorts for all that are restoring their Jeeps, going beyond mere denting/painting

Many thanks
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Old 5th April 2010, 10:55   #2
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It's a shame that Mahindra couldn't build rust-proof cars until very recently. Corrosion remains my '97 Jeep's enemy no.1. At the time of her last cosmetic revamp (in 2003), Milestone used generous amounts of some black coating on the underbody (before painting). This certainly helped and today, 7 years down the line, only the bonnet area has suffered from rust. The floorboard and external body parts held up well. I'll get more details on this liquid over my next visit to Milestone.

Lots of useful information in this thread (Rust Control for Classic cars??) which can apply to our rust-friendly Jeeps as well.
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Old 5th April 2010, 12:24   #3
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Post Rusting and Painting techniques

The amount a Jeep (or any vehicle for that matter) rusts depends mainly on two factors:-
a) Nature and quality of Pre-treatment
b) Nature and quality of Electro-deposition (Primer in common Jargon)

Pre-treatment aims in removing scales, sludges and other impurities which may prohibit a good surface finish. This is achieved by dipping the whole body shell in chemical baths followed by cleaning which makes the body ready for electro deposition (primer).

Electro-deposition is basically of two types- Anode ED and Cathode ED. This depends on the body shell/electrolyte which acts as a cathode or an anode.

Generally CED gives a better paint surface finish and rust prevention, although exceptions are there. Nowadays, the trend is CED.

Spike
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Old 5th April 2010, 16:27   #4
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Can some body put clear steps with pics of the entire painting procedure to be followed in a garage? Do's and dont's?

Is it always essential to remove the tub from chassis and paint it?

Gurus please enlighten us!! :-))
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Old 5th April 2010, 17:24   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinod_nookala View Post
Can some body put clear steps with pics of the entire painting procedure to be followed in a garage? Do's and dont's?

Is it always essential to remove the tub from chassis and paint it?

Gurus please enlighten us!! :-))
Vinod, it is essential, you may be knowing that a body shell usually does somersaults in a ED tank before going for painting in an assembly line. Waiting for pics.

Spike

Last edited by SPIKE ARRESTOR : 5th April 2010 at 17:30.
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Old 5th April 2010, 20:26   #6
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So how is chassis made rust proof?
Are Mahindra Chassis rust proof? What method do ALF Use?
Also are newer Body shells different than pre-200 body shells w.r.t rust treatment?

How about different methods for outer body & Underbody?
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Old 6th April 2010, 20:01   #7
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Yes newer body shells have different (better) rust treatment done on them. Not just ALF most chassis manufactures do electro-dipping (powder coating) to rust proof the chassis, earlier priming was also used.

Spike
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Old 6th April 2010, 20:13   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR View Post
Yes newer body shells have different (better) rust treatment done on them. Not just ALF most chassis manufactures do electro-dipping (powder coating) to rust proof the chassis, earlier priming was also used.

Spike
Thanks for info Spike. Good to know that
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