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Old 20th April 2010, 10:24   #16
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Thanks once again DB and i hope its ok/better to use 20W50 for 40+ deg, for our north indian summers especially?
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Old 20th April 2010, 11:58   #17
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hi naveen ,
i can fully understand your anguish with this overheating issue, i was in a similiar soup some time back , though sorted out now, yet at times when it gets too hot i feel apprehensive of looking at the temp guage, though progressively as i am seeing the reliability i am becoming less paranoid of the temperature.
when i was looking for the solution , often i was told that the 3b had an inherent problem of overheating so you can do nothing for it.
in my limited knowledge and understanding i came to the conclusion that (it worked, maybe fluke???) the to prevent overheating you need the following things sorted out
  1. good airflow to the engine block
  2. good radiator(well fitting cap to allow the pressure to be released is a must)
  3. fuel delivery line to be clear(as in completely give it a relook)
  4. timing of the oil pump, alternator and engine to be synchronised
  5. a clean exhaust outflow
i am not adding the carb to be in good order as i think you have got it done up recently. at the end of it use the trick suggested by ubs which i have also done: add in some extra packing between the mech fp and the block and use the synthetic packing for that . then i think it should be running fine .
also i beieve that not all 3b carb had the fuel return line, some later versions did though, but its not all that essential. i checked this with the 3b home page

this is what i learnt , when i had this problem but was eventually fixed completely later when the above listed things were attended to in totality. now i return in the afternoon in the jeep driving it 25kms non stop at steady 50kmph without a glitch

hope this helps you
sharat
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Old 22nd April 2010, 12:57   #18
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After having discussed with experts on this,..they concurred (independently) that it seems to be a timing issue, and then probably a carb setting which needs to be set right.

Working on this angle patiently now. Lets see where this goes.

Anyone with expierience using coolant in the CJ3B,..I only use water same as everyone else in the group.
What if I use coolant and retro-fit a over-flow reservoir would'nt the engine cooling be so much more efficient ?

Last edited by Torque-ative : 22nd April 2010 at 12:59. Reason: added info.
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Old 22nd April 2010, 21:39   #19
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Am using coolant and it works perfectly fine, ensure that radiator, radiator caps and pipes are working fine and of good quality. Yes apart from lesser headache of water top ups, i think engine has slightly better heat handling capacity with coolant.
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Old 23rd April 2010, 04:04   #20
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Thanks Jaggu on the coolant tip. Will get the overflow reservoir on priority.

Now for the rest of you guys who have been patiently following this thread. You have to hear this OMG :o

I brought in the jeep to a freinds (jeepers) place and one look and trained hearing later we seem to have the main problem identified.

My 3rd and 4th Cylinder is leaking compression from of all the places the spark plugs. The re-tapped threads seem to be giving way and the guys at classic have seemed to compound the problem by applying either excessive torque on the plug while re-assembling or wrongly fastened the plug against a poorly bedded groove. In fact when we started the engine after re-fastening the plugs there was an explosion over cylinder 3 and whoosh out came a fire ball and the plug with the leads was thrown up from the block akin to it being spit out by the fire ball.

Visibly concerend over the rather dramatic sequence of events,...I am told now that the head will need to be opened up and the plugs re-tapped and sleeved to ensure intergrity / air tightness of the block.

This is getting more dramatic that a afternoon soap now !!!

The mech. (New) under the watchful eye of my freind (let's us call him jeeper friend for now), will be openeing the block up later today and advice on next course of action.

Certainly not what I was expecting (the inferno from the block),..when I drove in for some friendly advise.

Will keep you updated all. Thanks
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Old 23rd April 2010, 07:32   #21
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Ohh, so there were more to it than what it seemed to be..!! Classic is just good to attend to the diesel rattlers, not the petrol smoothies
Experience (and not just theoretical knowledge acquired through net or any other source), particularly of someone who has lived with 3B for years and done everything with it, does count. And it does hold true for your 'jeeper friend'.
And most of the 3B guys here finally come down to him when some problem or other comes up and difficult to sort out, though many of them don't openly acknowledge that!
Now that the problem has been properly identified i guess its going to be rectified also in a decent time. Indeed a good news.
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Old 23rd April 2010, 09:23   #22
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Naveen,forgot to ask, how much was the charge for the new radiator replacement?
And btw, in my previous post, by 'here' i wanted to mean NCR and not Tbhp.
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Old 23rd April 2010, 10:26   #23
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Glad to know that you have identified the problem and i really envy you guys up there, having access to people and parts for your CJ3B
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Old 23rd April 2010, 11:25   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kandisa View Post
Naveen,forgot to ask, how much was the charge for the new radiator replacement?
And btw, in my previous post, by 'here' i wanted to mean NCR and not Tbhp.

@Kandisa, Our common jeeper friend shall get all the due credit he deserves in good time ,..he has requested that I not draw any unecessary attention at this point, as the journey towards complete road worthiness may be a while away.

The 4 core copper radiator on replacement of the old one landed 2500/- (Rs.1000 valued for the old radiator on exchange). So you can say 3500/-.

I do hope the inferno from cylinder 3 would not cause any further complication to the internals as that was a violent fire ball .

@jaggu, We guys are left with 1 or 2 people at best in the NCR who are an authority on the mechanicals of the 3B. Its quite a gloomy outlook afterall. Sad to see this breed dying away so.

Classic Motors (Mahindra.A.S.S), is the last place I am going to take my 3B again, forget about the timing, and tuning did they not even detect such a huge problem (compression leak from two cylinders) when they supposedly test drove my vehicle for over 8 kms before giving delivery.

I am not sure any Mahindra service center is competant to handle the 2.2 hurricane mechanicals. More than competance it is the inclination,..they make such a face when we land up with a petrol jeep.... ALmost as if they are doing us a Big big favor by even considering to work on our jeep.

Last edited by Torque-ative : 23rd April 2010 at 11:33. Reason: typo
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Old 24th April 2010, 08:09   #25
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Inferno from a cylinder eh! to my limited knowledge this is what happens inside a combustion engine,the inferno only generates power to crank up the engine.Never the less i hope your jeep is sorted out soon,but my honest suggestion,just be there with the jeep when the head job is underway and assembly is taking place,with no offence to your friend and his intentions,end of the day its your jeep.I hope and wish things would be sorted out soon.keep jeeping.
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Old 24th April 2010, 10:38   #26
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naveen, hell of a soap opera its turning out, seems you got the sound effects too.

share with us the god sent mechanic, classic seems to have messed up with your jeep big time, but why was this problem there in the first place?
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Old 24th April 2010, 11:01   #27
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There are a couple of issues you need to chieck:

1. Ensure your fan has a shroud and the radiator is positioned closer to the fan. Mine's about an inch and a half away.

2. Take a look at the return valve I have installed on my CJ3B. Its a simple procedure and costs hardly anything

3. Double check timing to be correct and not retarded

4. Install the UCAL electric pump as recommended by BD just after the tank outlet under the body and away from the silencer and connect it in series to the mechanical pump.

On hot days it should reach about 80-85 degrees but it won't stall with the electric running.

My mechanical pump (new) packs up at 80 deg but comes back on if I run it with a wet cloth or if ambient temp is lower

Don't get disheartened. This is a problem that plagues almost all the petrol Jeeps I have seen with owners I know. They all run on the electric pump in summer
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Old 24th April 2010, 17:38   #28
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Thanks for the wishes guys,...!
The head was recieved back after an adaptor was placed on the plug gaps of cylinder three and four, and groves re-tapped to create a perfect vaccum seal withinthe block.

The engine will be put back together tomorrow and fired up.
Lets see,..hope this solves the problem.

Thanks @DKG for you tips, in fact in addition to your points my "Jeeper Friend" has also suggested an auxillary radiator cooling fan in addition to the existing one. This should ensure that there is always a good amount of cooling going on.

We are also going to fit in an over flow reservoir to the radiator and run the jeep with the proper coolant / water ratio.

Well not quitting after all thats gone into the jeep. Have to make this as relaible as it gets.
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Old 24th April 2010, 19:22   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKG View Post
There are a couple of issues you need to chieck:

Don't get disheartened. This is a problem that plagues almost all the petrol Jeeps I have seen with owners I know. They all run on the electric pump in summer
Deepak,
Very shortly I will be hounding you for these particular issues and there's no escape as we live a few kilometers away from eachother.
Regards,
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Old 24th April 2010, 22:00   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM View Post
.... Please check for main jet size. It must be 140. Please check for venturi size. It must be 25.
.....
Behram Dhabhar
Sir, the F134 from Mahindra came with various setups for the Solex. Could you please list them out for reference. I mean the common stuff like all the jets, and the esoteric stuff like emulsion tubes, type of float cover, accelerator pump volume, weight of float, and position of venturi. Also, how does one check for proper float level in a Solex.

Reason for asking is that I cannot recall a 140 MJ and 25 venturi combination.

Regards
Sutripta
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