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Old 10th July 2008, 08:48   #331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samurai View Post
Meanwhile, I got some electric work done. Added a pair of fog lights (Rs.312/pair), one reverse light (Rs.91) and fixed the hi-beam-low-beam issue. Also replaced the Bosch H4 with Philips H4 and kept the former as spare.
What brand? That price is too low for a good pair of Fogs.

Any pics?
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Old 10th July 2008, 09:08   #332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuttapan View Post
Tanveer, I think your basics are a bit rusty too. 20W40 means that the oil is able to hold its viscosity in a temperature range of 20-40 deg C. 20W50 holds its viscocity over a greater range. Both will thin out at 100 deg C, with the 20W50 being more viscous at the same temperature. Oil data sheets give you the viscosity at various temperatures.

For winter applications, one gets somethins like 5W30 or whatever,notice the first number going down. Usually, this means that the viscosity of oil goes down as well(compared to an oil which has a higher first number - say 20W40). A highly viscous oil at normal temperature will make cold winter starts very hard, as viscosity will increase as ambient temperature goes down.

20W40 oil manufactured for diesel engines have the same viscosity as theor petrol counterparts, but they have more detergant content to flush out the diesel combustion byproducts.
20W40 does not mean its the range of temperature.
The upper number is called the viscosity of engine oil at 100 degrees .
So a 20W50 oil will be more viscous at 100 degree C as compared to 20W40 or 10W40 etc.,
The 10W, 5W, 0W oils means low temperature pumping.
0W oil is not tested at 0 degree C, but at -35 Degree C
5W is tested at -30C
10W is tested at -25C
So 10W40 does not mean that oil can be used between 10 degree and 40 degrees, because engine oil temperature often touches 80 degree+

Motor oil viscosity - Castrol Motor Oil
Motor oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
You will see that 20W50 oil can be used for temperatures above 20F
32F is 0 degree C, i.e. the freezing point of water
5W40 can be used for temp < 0 F

Last edited by tsk1979 : 10th July 2008 at 09:09.
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Old 10th July 2008, 09:25   #333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samurai View Post
Meanwhile, I got some electric work done. Added a pair of fog lights (Rs.312/pair), one reverse light (Rs.91) and fixed the hi-beam-low-beam issue. Also replaced the Bosch H4 with Philips H4 and kept the former as spare.
Did you get a reverse light switch on the reverse gear, if so get a relay also or it fries, if the light is too powerful.
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Old 10th July 2008, 09:43   #334
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Originally Posted by madbullram View Post
What brand? That price is too low for a good pair of Fogs.
Considering that the auto-electric shop in Udupi had only one model of fogs, I didn't have much choice. How much does a pair of Hella costs?

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Did you get a reverse light switch on the reverse gear, if so get a relay also or it fries, if the light is too powerful.
No, both fogs and reverse light are on separate switch. All are 55W halogens except for the headlights, which are 100W.

Last edited by Samurai : 10th July 2008 at 16:13.
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Old 10th July 2008, 09:51   #335
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Considering that the auto-electric shop in Udupi had only model of fogs, I didn't have much choice. How much does a pair of Hella costs?
Here in US a good KC or Hella 100W Fog Light costs between 100$ to 130$. 2 years back in Chennai Hella was quoted for some 5000 rs.

Hella Rallye 4000 Metal Lamp
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Old 10th July 2008, 16:12   #336
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Before filling the brake fluid, I decided to check with the my mechanic to see why it went low. He found a very small leak in the rear cylinder, said it can be fixed by changing the washer. The front cylinder is fine. This will only affect rear brakes.

However, once he found I am going on a long drive tomorrow, he advised me to just top-up the fluid and delay the repair until I come back. He said sometimes with these old Jeeps, it takes some time for the brakes to come back to normal working condition after changing the washer. He didn't want to make that change just prior to a long drive. So we just topped the fluid, he asked me to check the level often and carry an extra bottle of brake fluid.
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Old 10th July 2008, 17:30   #337
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Mixing DOT 3 and DOT 4 means slightly lowered boiling point. So if you are not sure, go easy on the brakes.
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Old 10th July 2008, 20:05   #338
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Here everybody is using DOT3, so do I.

Hopefully I am all set for my first off-roading trip in my own Jeep. As spares I have engine oil, axle oil, brake fluid, coolant, fan belt, radiator hoses, hydraulic jack, H4 bulbs, 35A fuses and full-fledged tool box with all tools I can think. Only spare tube is not there. MM440 is getting tow chain for me from Bangalore. Never done this much prep for any 2 day trip.
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Old 23rd July 2008, 21:06   #339
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After the Coorg OTR, Mr.Sudhir Kashyap had a closer look at my Jeep and pointed out the following as the most critical problem.

Between the chassis and the axle, there is a rubber block known as some buffer. My front buffer is totally gone.

Notice the red circle, this is the front side, it is totally chewed out.
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The one on the rear is fine.
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So I need to get it replaced ASAP. If I hit something really hard, the axle will ram into the engine bottom in the absence of this buffer.

Finally, I have been told that one full service is required after a hectic off-roading event. What are the components/parts to be serviced?

Last edited by Samurai : 6th August 2008 at 12:57.
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Old 23rd July 2008, 21:10   #340
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Sharat. that is called the "bump" stop. Its a rubber pad to prevent metal touching under hard compression or when you land from jumps.

It costs around 30 bucks each. Better to change all 4.
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Old 1st August 2008, 11:40   #341
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After the Coorg OTR event I was running around like a headless chicken to figure out what post-OTR checks need to be done. Eventually, the ever helpful Patrick Kani from Jeep Thrills provided a long list for post-OTR checks, for both dry and wet off-roading.

Based on that, I gave the Jeep to the neighbourhood mechanic with the following wishlist.

Maintenance items
------------------
1) Check Suspension setup.
2) Check leaf springs and spray oil.
3) Check tie rods.
4) Check for leaks in the differentials, oil sump and diesel tank.
5) Check all breathers on the gear box, transfer case and both differentials.
6) Inspect all brake drums, liners and wheel bearings and re-grease them.
7) Change engine oil.
8) Open and clean free wheeling hubs, re-lubricate them.
9) Replace fuel filter.
10) Check air filter


Problems
---------
11) Replace front buffers.
12) Fix brake fluid leak in the rear (master) cylinder.
13) Engine heats while climbing, check effectiveness of water pump and fan.
14) Fix excess play in the steering.

He at least found two major issues. The front U-clamp had worn out and become loose, needed replacement.
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And the front diff had almost run out of oil. There was no visible leak, and the diff oil level was checked and topped up in June. So it was topped up again and we will check it again after two weeks.

Most of the list is already complete, I will be getting the Jeep back today.
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Old 2nd August 2008, 21:22   #342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM View Post
Also less oil in your front axle clearly indicates that the previous owner had not cared for the car just sold it to you. Be careful.
Oh no, this is not correct. I had the mechanic top up the diff oil in June. Besides, I bought the Jeep from a highly regarded Jeep Thrills member who also owns 3 Jeeps including two Willys models. His after sales service has been fantastic.

Finally got back the Jeep tonight, it was delivered back to my office. Since it was night, I couldn't take photos of the radiator cap, will do that tomorrow.

During Coorg OTR my wife had noticed a slight fuel leak, I hadn't thought much of it. Today the mechanic saw the same problem and checked it out. There was a small cut that was fixed using m-seal which was giving out. Got that welded.

Material
-----------------------
1) Diesel filter set 140
2) Oil filter 150
3) Master cylinder kit 140
4) front buffer (2) 60
5) Gear oil (1lt) 140
6) Waste cloth 20
7) Castrol grease (1/2 kg) 90
8) Brake fluid (1/4 lt) 50
9) U-clamp 30
----------------------------------------------
Total maetrial cost 820

Labour
--------------
1) Front locking hub lubrication 100
2) Front wheel cleaning 80
3) front right U-clamp change 40
4) U-clamp plate weld 30
5) Oil change/filter change 75
6) Diesel tank remove/fitting 50
7) Diesel tank soldering 50
8) auto charge 70
9) General checkup 50
10) Rear wheel cleaning 100
11) master cylinder changing 100
---------------------------------------------
Total labour cost 745

Grand Total: Rs.1565/-

How does bill this sound?
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Old 2nd August 2008, 22:48   #343
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The bill looks to be ok, I miss my jeep, by the how much has the engine run till date?
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Old 3rd August 2008, 23:26   #344
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how much has the engine run till date?
I have not idea, nobody knows.

Last edited by Samurai : 6th August 2008 at 12:46.
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Old 4th August 2008, 18:54   #345
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GTO was wondering how the fogs were installed.

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Last edited by Samurai : 6th August 2008 at 12:49.
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