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Old 9th October 2009, 14:58   #721
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Thanks Vijay/DKG, that makes perfect sense. I just hope there is no issue with the engine.

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Oh No, What I meant to write was did you get a chance to fix the old/hard pipe, refill with water and try to restart and check for some abnormal bore/piston noises.
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They removed the hose pipe. I looked at the spare hose pipe I had, I noticed few cracks. Decided not to use it. I'll get new OE pipes by tomorrow.
Anyway, I just got the new hose pipe just now. Have asked the mechanics to make one more house visit.
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Old 9th October 2009, 18:52   #722
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Hose was replaced, thermostat was inspected and coolant+water was added.

Now the moment of truth. Turned on the engine, no trouble, everything appears normal.
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Old 9th October 2009, 19:06   #723
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Quote:
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Hose was replaced, thermostat was inspected and coolant+water was added.

Now the moment of truth. Turned on the engine, no trouble, everything appears normal.
If you think the engine really did get hot it might be a good idea to change the oil. Really hot engines cook the oil and it loses its lubricity (slipperiness and ability to lubricate.)

And, if it really did get hot, I would keep an eye on the head gasket for awhile. They are known to warp and leak after things get too hot.

Last edited by DirtyDan : 9th October 2009 at 19:08.
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Old 10th October 2009, 09:07   #724
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Dear Sharath - as far as your cooling system issue is concerned, please replace the radiator pressure cap immediately. Please use OE cap only. Ensure that the OD of the cap rubber seal does not foul the ID of the radiator neck otherwise the cap will not perform its intended function. Also check cap height with respect to neck height. Cap deck height must be more than neck height so as to provide positive sealing to ensure pressure build up. As soon as the engine is switched off, coolant temperature shoots up by around 15 degrees within 30 seconds, (depends on vehicle to vehicle), then hovers around the same value for 14 minutes and then starts coming down by around 1 degree every 2 minutes. That's the reason why electric fans in modern cars can come on even when the engine is off.

The best permanent solution is to fit a degassing tank (in my CL340 I had it in 1995). An Indica Diesel degassing tank should do just fine. One vehicle conversion is child's play. I'll provide details shortly. No time now.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Last edited by DHABHAR.BEHRAM : 10th October 2009 at 09:08. Reason: add info
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Old 10th October 2009, 09:17   #725
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Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM View Post
Dear Sharath - as far as your cooling system issue is concerned, please replace the radiator pressure cap immediately. Please use OE cap only.
You mean the radiator cap didn't do it's job. You may be right, the overflow tank was empty, I did wonder why the excess pressure was not released by the cap.

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As soon as the engine is switched off, coolant temperature shoots up by around 15 degrees within 30 seconds, (depends on vehicle to vehicle), then hovers around the same value for 14 minutes and then starts coming down by around 1 degree every 2 minutes. That's the reason why electric fans in modern cars can come on even when the engine is off.
This is very useful to know.

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The best permanent solution is to fit a degassing tank (in my CL340 I had it in 1995). An Indica Diesel degassing tank should do just fine. One vehicle conversion is child's play. I'll provide details shortly. No time now.
Ok, this will be interesting.

DirtyDan, after going through Behram's statement I feel engine oil should be ok. I had changed it only 15 days back.
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Old 10th October 2009, 13:59   #726
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DirtyDan, after going through Behram's statement I feel engine oil should be ok. I had changed it only 15 days back.
Yeah, I am not suggesting oil was the problem. What I am saying is that, whatever the cause of the problem, once your engine has run too hot for awhile, the oil loses its chemical make up and does not lube as well. I do not know how long or how hot you ran. Similarly, a hot engine tends to warp the head. This comes from first hand experience, sad to say.

Last edited by DirtyDan : 10th October 2009 at 14:10.
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Old 10th October 2009, 14:18   #727
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Dear Ken (aka DD) - hello after a long time. You are correct. XDP4.90 is exceptionally vulnerable to seizure due to coolant loss and subsequent overheating, so we have to be extra careful.

Dear Sharath - let me study the Indica tank. I'll have to sit at home and type out the complete guidelines so that Richie's guys do exactly what is in my brain.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
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Old 10th October 2009, 23:42   #728
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The Indica tank is a really funny shape and will be a lousy fit, not to mention the plumbing which involves two water lines. See if you can get yourself an original tanl off a scorpio or bolero, a nice rectangular tank with straight forward mounting clamps!
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Old 11th October 2009, 11:46   #729
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What is a degassing? --- Degasification - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

-> How does the degassing tank help in a Jeep? We will wait for you Behram.

Quote:
As soon as the engine is switched off, coolant temperature shoots up by around 15 degrees within 30 seconds
Situation 1:
This means if the optimal temp for the XDP4.90 is 80'C, on switching off after a normal run, the temp should shoot up to 95'c.

1) Is this ok? i mean, no choice right?

Situation 2:
In case you end up with a overheating situation, say like in my 1st drive I noticed temp at 100, I pulled over and let the engine 'cool' down, but actually it went upto 115~??? I dont know since I switched off the ignition. I should have let the key on to check?

2) what is the temp that one 'should' switch off the engine?

3) Behram, what is the actual temp that a engine seizes? Or what are the events that happens at each stage beyond the optimal temp? I am sure someone would have actually experimented this.
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Old 11th October 2009, 18:46   #730
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Dear Behram sir,
I dont have thermostat in my jeep. In my previous palar challenge in 2008 i was running close to 100-105 as engine was overheating contineously running on sand in 4wd low at high rpms, doing tough climbs, pulling out my team mates under 40+ degree hot sun. I was advised by veterans to never switch off engine as temperature further shoots up. I used to keep the bonnet open and run it in idle so that engine cools down when ever we could take a halt. Hope that was a safe operation.

One of our jeeper and my team mate Mr.Patrik in 2009 palar had installed a thermostat fan for which the temperature could be regulated from cabin. He had kept the cut on temp at 75-80, the engine never went above 80 at all through out the day where as all our engines were overheating inspite of a 4 core radiator. I think thats my next modification for next palar if i dont land up with my new xxxx

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Old 14th October 2009, 18:58   #731
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After the rear shock-absorbers were replaced last month, the ride has become very harsh. The local Mahindra Service Advsior says that the new shocks resist the bounce lot more than the old shocks, hence the harshness. But the harshness is pretty unacceptable compared to the earlier ride quality.

Now that I have installed the CF leafs, it is making only a slight difference. The new shocks are overshadowing everything.

Now I am wondering about this. The CJ340 is the lightest of all Jeeps and is it possible that the shock absorber they installed belongs to a heavier vehicle? The part number they have used it 0402BA0281N. It is quite possible that they didn't have the CJ340 shocks in stock. How can I resolve this?
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Old 14th October 2009, 19:22   #732
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Quote:

Now I am wondering about this. The CJ340 is the lightest of all Jeeps and is it possible that the shock absorber they installed belongs to a heavier vehicle?
Quite a possibility sharat. If you want to be safe you can use MM540/CJ500D shocks, will almost give you same characterstics.

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Old 24th October 2009, 00:03   #733
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Dear Sharath - sorry for late reply as I am logging on after quite some time. In 0402BA0281N, N means Nasik part and 10 digit series denotes a relatively newer series part number. Richie's guys must have used the CL550MDI4WD vehicle's rear shock absorber (I'll check tomorrow and let you know) but the new CL has a box section chassis and therefore its dynamics will be completely different from your CL340. If you have retained the old ones, I would suggest you go back to them. If shock characteristics are way out of specifications, the chassis mounting bracket pin may break.

Dear Vinod - I have started typing the complete explanation of the degassing system at home. I'll post shortly.

Dear Jyobeb - the Scorpio does not have a degassing tank, it has a surge tank. The two are as different as chalk and cheese. A surge tank can never come close to doing what a degassing tank can do. The only Bolero to use the degassing tank is the one with the XD3P engine which is still made in very few numbers in 4WD configuration. And where did the Bolero's degassing tank come from? Open the Bolero's bonnet and check! The only reasons why manufacturers choose not to use the degassing tank is mainly cost and plumbing issues, also that factor of safety in a majority of cases does not warrant using one.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
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Old 24th October 2009, 10:56   #734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM View Post
Dear Sharath - sorry for late reply as I am logging on after quite some time. In 0402BA0281N, N means Nasik part and 10 digit series denotes a relatively newer series part number. Richie's guys must have used the CL550MDI4WD vehicle's rear shock absorber (I'll check tomorrow and let you know) but the new CL has a box section chassis and therefore its dynamics will be completely different from your CL340.
It was literally kicking my butt at every pothole. Two weeks later when I installed CF leafs, it took the edge off the kicks. It still resists the leaf spring action lot more than it should. As a result I am unable to see the benefit of the CF leafs.

I was talking about Jammy (MM440) about the problem. He told me that in lighter Jeeps like CJ340, most of the work is done by the leaf springs and the shocks should only eliminate the residual harmonics and not interfere with the primary action of the leaf. He advised switching to a 1.5 inch thick shocks for that reason. This made lot of sense to me since I don't want the shocks to interfere with the working of the CF leaf.

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If you have retained the old ones, I would suggest you go back to them. If shock characteristics are way out of specifications, the chassis mounting bracket pin may break.
I can't go back, one of them is leaking profusely. I obviously can't use one old and one new shocks since they don't match.
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Old 24th October 2009, 16:34   #735
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Dear Sharath - reply to your shock absorber issue is that 0402BA0281N is the part number of the rear shock absorber used in the Bolero Pick Up Flatbed Truck / Max Pick Up Flatbed Truck. No wonder it does not suit your CJ340. The shock absorber which comes nearest to your requirement is 079757 (rear) and 080166 (front).

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
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