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Old 24th November 2011, 13:20   #1366
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A multimeter check of the battery (12 in off, 14 in running) will clear the battery. Mostly its the starter motor - What was the last condition you parked the Jeep in? Rainy drive/OTR? and parked it inside? May be moisture inside starter...
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Old 24th November 2011, 14:51   #1367
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The battery was hooked up to the charger at 11AM. I tried starting the Jeep at 1PM, it started in first crank. No more clicking. Then I went home, then another place. Every time it started in one crank. I guess it was merely discharged battery.

The charger says it is not fully charged. So I have again hooked the battery for charging. Should be well charged in few more hours.
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Old 24th November 2011, 14:58   #1368
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Check all the earth cables , including the one between engine block & chassis

also the connections to Alternator ,

Is the red light comming on when the main switch is on & engine not running ? ( or even when the engine Is running at some speed )

what are the Amp meter or Volt meter on dash telling .

Listen to all the Jeep's Whispers -- ( before you call an expert )

Sudarshan
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Old 24th November 2011, 15:24   #1369
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Originally Posted by Sudarshan View Post
Is the red light comming on when the main switch is on & engine not running ? ( or even when the engine Is running at some speed )
Yes, it does come on in the beginning and switches off later. I know to watch out for this one.

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what are the Amp meter or Volt meter on dash telling.
After 18 months of inactivity, the ammeter has started working again. That one was a big surprise. It was swinging towards + while I was driving, and gets back to 0 when I shutoff.

I am thinking off giving the Jeep for full service today including start motor service and inspection of all connections. It has been lying around untouched since I came back from Somwarpet OTR in August, all because I didn't have a battery in it.
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Old 24th November 2011, 17:03   #1370
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After 18 months of inactivity, the ammeter has started working again. That one was a big surprise. It was swinging towards + while I was driving, and gets back to 0 when I shutoff
AFAIK this means the battery is charging (when engine running and AMPS is +ve) & if during running it stays at zero it means battery doesnt need any more juice put into it, it is fully charged.

(See Below) - Sharath, actually in addition to the AFM key, this battery disconnector key is part of my key bunch to start my jeep. (Got Idea after I saw it in Headers Gypsy IIRC)

Last edited by svsantosh : 24th November 2011 at 17:21.
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Old 24th November 2011, 17:16   #1371
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Hi Sharath,

Since your JEEP is used infrequently why don't you connect a battery isolator to the + cable.

This will increase battery life and work as an anti-theft device.

Regards,

Arka
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Old 24th November 2011, 17:31   #1372
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Actually I am thinking of removing the battery and hook it up to a charger in the UPS room whenever I am away.
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Old 24th November 2011, 18:11   #1373
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Originally Posted by sudev View Post
@Samurai : Its a Jeep thing.

Looks like the carbon bushes / commutator ring in the stater are failing to make sufficient contact. This used to be problem in old Amby's

Another thing that used to be often the problem was the solenoid feeding current to starter motor would get carbonized.

As I said in the start its a Jeep thing that you become a master of many "technologies" while owning one.
If starter is rotating, then it is fine. If it stalls then it may be the culprit. Any way there is no harm in opening it and servicing
- change brushes, check springs, change if weak.
- sand paper the commutator
- clean the solenoid contacts
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Old 24th November 2011, 19:57   #1374
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Originally Posted by Samurai View Post

After 18 months of inactivity, the ammeter has started working again. That one was a big surprise. It was swinging towards + while I was driving, and gets back to 0 when I shutoff.
you mean it wasnt working properly before & now its working ok --- means its actingup , its faulty = dump it

BTW I found a volt meter is more good than the Amp meter , My Jeep has Amp meter & the Landy is having a Volt meter ( Now ---as its having a 125 amp alternator & putting an Amp meter of that capacity & wiring too was clumsy ) .

I found out that the Voltmeter is easy WRT wiring ( No high current wires passing through the dash & bulkhead ) , a direct wire from Alternator output to battery is possible & thats the most efficient circuit--- IMHO & AFAIK

Also there is less chance of any loose output connections with this method . I remember BD Sir recommending this method somewhere . ( & I support it )

Sudarshan

Last edited by Sudarshan : 24th November 2011 at 20:02.
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Old 24th November 2011, 20:48   #1375
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Originally Posted by Samurai View Post
After 18 months of inactivity, the ammeter has started working again.
Loose connection somewhere in your charging circuit, including ammeter. The ammeter is too simple to have problems.

Proceed similarly to when you debugged code!
The solenoid id the first subroutine I'd check.

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Sutripta
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Old 24th November 2011, 21:34   #1376
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Check connections, solenoid and starter. Very unlikely a brand new battery is so undercharged that it doesn't start. Hooking upto ups might not be a good idea since the charge discharge cycles are not mapped for an automotive battery. It will do more harm, simpler thing to do is either to remove the terminal or add a battery isolator.
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Old 24th November 2011, 22:49   #1377
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By 5PM the charger finally indicated full charge. I started the Jeep, it started at first crank. So I do believe the battery was under charged.

However, I am not giving full marks to the starter either. In the first crank, I had to hold it for 2 seconds before it came to life. But there was no clicking like in the morning.

The battery isolator, is this a standard part I can get in any auto shop? How does it work?

Debugging the ammeter, may be I'll look it up on a weekend.
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Old 25th November 2011, 09:48   #1378
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Dear Sharath - hello after a long time (as usual). Regarding the ammeter, I think I had mentioned before also, Lucas TVS SA15 alternator works best without an ammeter in the circuit. Please remove it, it means put both its wires on one of its terminals, it will remain but as a dummy. Also, please shunt the alternator to the starter motor main terminal. Everything will run better this way. I have been doing this and many other things like this for years. As I have access to test beds, my inferences are drawn from test bed results.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
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Old 25th November 2011, 11:18   #1379
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One problem of using an ammeter is that it involves installing long wires (from the Alternator/battery to the dashboard and back), so bypassing this circuit will increase the current delivered to the system.

In case an ammeter is needed, you can use the type used in DC power electric distribution systems - it has a small shunt which is inserted in the circuit, and a voltmeter is connected across the shunt. Of course the meter is calibrated in amperes! In case you want to retain the original ammeter, then beef up the wiring to and from it (say 6-8 mm.sq, to ensure least resistance).

I have found that the best place to insert an ammeter is where the main power wire connects to the battery, that way you can always monitor the current flowing to and from the battery (the only risk is that with engine off, in case of a short in this line, large current can flow creating a fire hazard in an unattended vehicle). Using a shunt ammeter obviates the risk, as a fuse can be inserted in the meter circuit without affecting main current flow.
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Old 25th November 2011, 22:16   #1380
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Quote:
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In case an ammeter is needed, you can use the type used in DC power electric distribution systems - it has a small shunt which is inserted in the circuit, and a voltmeter is connected across the shunt.
Hi,
Can you help us source a ~100mV FSD centre zero movement rugged enough for a Jeep.

Regards
Sutripta
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