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Old 16th December 2009, 22:35   #46
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Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi View Post
So how does this 4X4 thing work anyways?

I don't know much about these things and I wished to educate myself. No shame in that.
Very informative sam. These are some of the things that i always wanted to ask but then it would be so elementary and silly to ask in a group of experts i didn't ask.

My questions,
1. How do you change the small gear shaft, do you need to press clutch or move it just like that. I hope the main gear shaft could be in any gear

2. Is the High/Low setting different from DIFF LOCK or is it like High DIFF or LOW DIFF etc .

3. What does the N stand for, if it is Neutral, then what mode will it be, 2W/4W.

4. Is this transfer gear the same as in MM Jeeps, i have seen a small gear shaft and I presume it just moves forward / backward., i.e., High/Low. How do they do the DIFF lock.

5. Also there are also special mention about LSD, Rear Diff lock etc in 4X4 threads. what are these

Well, i have spilled my beans. Appreciate your answers. Sorry if its absurd.
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Old 16th December 2009, 22:46   #47
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I must be dreaming !

Sam writes about engine-wengine that too in detail and I just read a nice review about out national diesel engined cars by Rudra. Cant take this all in a day.
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Old 16th December 2009, 22:46   #48
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Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi View Post
New head unit, new speakers.
This is not done we need details of HU / Speakers.
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Old 16th December 2009, 23:05   #49
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Congratulations Sam. As you might have noticed, I'm relatively new here.Trust me, I completed reading everything you wrote and its like I know you now.

I love the color. Keep it shining.


Cheers!

Cartman.
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Old 16th December 2009, 23:17   #50
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This thread should be titled as The Yeti and the art of Discovering Land Rover Discovery.
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Old 16th December 2009, 23:53   #51
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Crazy stuff Sam.

You live a CHARMED life bro!
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Old 16th December 2009, 23:55   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ikoneer View Post
Very informative sam. These are some of the things that i always wanted to ask but then it would be so elementary and silly to ask in a group of experts i didn't ask.

Well, i have spilled my beans. Appreciate your answers. Sorry if its absurd.
Absurd!? Not at all. Here is what I know from self-taught knowledge. I'm no expert and do not pretend to be.
My answers in bold.


1. How do you change the small gear shaft, do you need to press clutch or move it just like that. I hope the main gear shaft could be in any gear.

You put the car in neutral and keep the engine running. You press the clutch and shift. It is not smooth like the normal gear shift.
Since the transfer box is not synchromesh, you usually have to double clutch.
i.e. press clutch, push from high to neutral, release clutch. Press clutch again and push from neutral to low.


2. Is the High/Low setting different from DIFF LOCK or is it like High DIFF or LOW DIFF etc .
There are 4 driving positions. High and low for usual driving and high and low for diff lock.
When you engage the lever to the left, a diff lock warning light switches on in your cluster.

My earlier post explains when you use diff lock.

3. What does the N stand for, if it is Neutral, then what mode will it be, 2W/4W.
The Land Rover is never in 2W. It is a permanent 4W. The neutral on the transfer box is not a driving position, it is a double clutch position. (refer question 1 in this post)
However out of curiosity, I tried driving with the transfer box in neutral. The car did not move and remained in neutral regardless of what gear I put the main gearshift in.


4. Is this transfer gear the same as in MM Jeeps, i have seen a small gear shaft and I presume it just moves forward / backward., i.e., High/Low. How do they do the DIFF lock.

I do not think the MM Jeeps have a diff lock. These jeeps are selectable between 2W and 4W drive. But I have no idea how those transfer boxes work. Maybe some Jeepers can jump in here.

5. Also there are also special mention about LSD, Rear Diff lock etc in 4X4 threads. what are these

LSD is a fun but addictive chemical substance that may not be good for....

Oh wait.

I don't think...

I don't know. Sorry.



Quote:
Iffy meaning does it crunch or grind when you try to slam it into 2nd quickly? Could be just worn our syncros for 2nd.
If I shift to second while I am still under 10 miles per hour (yes, don't even ask how confusing this mile meter is) then it is fine and smooth.
If the car is even slightly faster, it grinds and pops back into neutral.

I simply change into second while I am under 10mph. Then it works just fine.
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Old 17th December 2009, 00:03   #53
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A superb find and a superb writeup on your experience so far.

So, are you taking it offroad anytime soon?
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Old 17th December 2009, 00:12   #54
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Default Off-Roading for Dummies

So, allow me to share what I have learned recently about off-road driving from Land Rover books.

Please remember I'm not teaching, I'm just sharing some knowledge. My teacher is Land Rover manuals.

Holding the steering wheel
  • WARNING: DO NOT hold the steering wheel with your thumbs inside the rim - a sudden ’kick’ of the wheel as the vehicle negotiates a rut or boulder could seriously injure them.
  • ALWAYS grip the wheel on the outside of the rim (as shown) when traversing uneven ground.
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Ground Clearance
  • Don’t forget to allow for ground clearance beneath the chassis, axles and under the front and rear bumpers. Note that the axle
    differentials are situated BELOW the chassis and are positioned slightly to the right of the centre of the vehicle. Note also that there are other parts of the vehicle which may come into contact with the ground - take care not to ground the vehicle.
  • Ground clearance is particularly important at the bottom of steep slopes, or where wheel ruts are unusually deep and where sudden
    changes in the slope of the ground are experienced.
  • On soft ground the axle differentials will clear their own path in all but the most difficult conditions. However, on frozen, rocky or hard ground, hard contact between the differentials and the ground will generally result in the vehicle coming to a sudden stop. ALWAYS attempt to avoid obstacles that may foul the chassis or axle differentials.
DRIVING ON SOFT SURFACES & DRY SAND
The ideal technique for driving on soft sand requires the vehicle to be kept moving at all times - soft sand causes excessive drag on the wheels resulting in a rapid loss of motion once driving momentum is lost. For this reason, gear changing (particularly on manual gearbox vehicles) should be avoided.

• Engage the DIFF LOCK.
• Select the highest suitable gear and REMAIN in that gear until a firm surface is reached. It is generally advisable to use LOW range gears, as they will enable you to accelerate through worsening conditions without the risk of being unable to restart.
• Disengage the DIFF LOCK as soon as firm ground is reached.



If you guys like this info, I can continue. If not, I can continue with my story.
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Old 17th December 2009, 00:34   #55
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Who would have expected a YetiBlog in the 4x4 section?
@Mods, please send out a mass PM whenever a new YetiBlog starts. Keeps one from missing the action from day one itself
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Old 17th December 2009, 00:35   #56
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we like the info almost as much as your story. lol
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Old 17th December 2009, 00:40   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi View Post

Dreams do come true.
Now I know what I have been doing wrong all this while. I need to have dreams!!

I am going to sleep NOW!


Sam, i can totally identify with the craving. no 4X4, no OTR. Just plain fun of a Toy that goes anywhere and looks cool.
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Old 17th December 2009, 00:43   #58
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Sam,

Your story and the manual are both equally interesting, (the manual more maybe, considering this is the 4x4 section)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi View Post
hard contact between the differentials and the ground will generally result in the vehicle coming to a sudden stop.
Those manual writing guys had a subtle sense of humour too!
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Old 17th December 2009, 00:44   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akshay1234 View Post
we like the info almost as much as your story. lol
OK So I'll go on.

CLIMBING STEEP SLOPES

Engage the DIFF LOCK and ALWAYS follow the fall line of the slope - travelling diagonally could encourage the vehicle to slide broadside down the slope.

Steep climbs will usually require the LOW gear range. If the surface is loose or slippery, use sufficient speed in the highest practical gear to take advantage of your vehicle’s momentum. However, too high a speed over a bumpy surface may result in a wheel lifting, causing the vehicle to lose traction.

In this case try a slower approach. Traction can also be improved by easing off the accelerator just before loss of forward motion.


If the vehicle is unable to complete a climb, do not attempt to turn it around while on the slope. Instead, adopt the following procedure to reverse downhill to the foot of the slope.

1. Hold the vehicle stationary using both foot and hand brakes.
2. Restart the engine if necessary.
3. Engage reverse gear LOW range
4. Release the handbrake. Then release the foot brake and clutch simultaneously, and allow the vehicle to reverse down the slope using engine braking to control the rate of descent.
5. Unless it is necessary to stop the vehicle to negotiate obstructions, DO NOT apply the brake or clutch pedal during the descent - even a light application may cause the front wheels to lock, rendering the steering ineffective.
6. If the vehicle begins to slide, accelerate slightly to allow the tyres to regain grip.


When the vehicle is back on level ground or where traction can be regained, a faster approach will probably enable the hill to be climbed. However, DO NOT take unnecessary risks, if the hill is too difficult to climb, find an alternative route.

Warning:
The engine must be restarted before reversing down the slope as there will be no braking effect from the gearbox unless the engine is running.


More later. Goodnight.
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Old 17th December 2009, 01:49   #60
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Great writeup Sam ...

Waiting for further updates, and congrats on your new buy.
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