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Old 20th April 2010, 18:15   #211
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Dear Jaggu - your comment "whatever happened to simple way of life", is absolutely correct. You said it. Parkinson's 3rd law says, "expansion means complexity and complexity leads to decay" has sadly come true today. Anyway, we drive Jeeps. We can breathe easy.

Dear Gogi - your comment "I tell you I'm falling in love everyday I drive this thing" is correct. I told you that you will pick up the CJ3B keys and even leave your Mercs behind!

Dear Deepak - yes, the CJ3B is the ultimate cruiser.

Now, if only I could find myself a "good" BS4 engine ----- .

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
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Old 20th April 2010, 18:34   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM View Post

Now, if only I could find myself a "good" BS4 engine ----- .

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
Logan's 1.5 litre engine?
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Old 20th April 2010, 18:48   #213
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Logan's 1.5 litre engine?
Vinod, this 1.5 would make it a FWD car yaar!
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Old 20th April 2010, 18:54   #214
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@Jaggu When are you making your "Tow Bar"

--Sree--
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Old 20th April 2010, 21:20   #215
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Default Skid plates/guard!

Gogi bhai picture of both the plates, let me know if you need from any other angles.

The oil sump guard
Got Jeep! CJ3B Hurricane.-img_1081.jpg

Got Jeep! CJ3B Hurricane.-img_1082.jpg

Transfer case guard
Got Jeep! CJ3B Hurricane.-img_1079.jpg

Got Jeep! CJ3B Hurricane.-img_1080.jpg

EDIT: On a very serious note, to get over the fuel crisis of a poor CJ3B owner, Sreeraj has agreed to offer his tow services for the highway, attach a tow bar and start the petrol engine only at the begining of the trail

Design will be:

MM550 |<| CJ3B

EDIT 2:

Spike will Scorpio petrol engine/gearbox fit a CJ3B?

Last edited by Jaggu : 20th April 2010 at 21:28.
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Old 20th April 2010, 21:43   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaggu View Post

Spike will Scorpio petrol engine/gearbox fit a CJ3B?
Jaggu, i can see fouling marks on your front propeller shaft(see two shiny spots on the shaft), am i correct or are my eyes deceiving me?

You can fit the tranny only if you dont intend to use the rear propeller shaft, drive only with 4WD engaged and power transmission to the front.

Spike

P.S.Scorpio Petrol, how do you know about this animal (I am not talking about the one with the Renault engine)?
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Old 20th April 2010, 22:38   #217
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Spikee i think mark is from lathe or is an earlier scar, if you look at the other snap you can see that there is ample clearance around the prop shaft.

Scorpio petrol, hmmm is it a secret or something?
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Old 21st April 2010, 13:55   #218
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Exclamation drain bolt

Jaggu, Is the Oil Drain bolt standard OE fitting? In my diesel pot, the drain bolt doesnt have a head. It doesnt stick out like you Jeeps'. It is opened using a square allen-bolt.

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Benefit is - 3 days ago in the Hosur Recee, my buddy scrapped and cracked his jeeps' drain bolt leading to this!!

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Old 21st April 2010, 15:00   #219
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I have no clue if its original or not, though what you posted make sense. Let me see if i can get a similar plug arranged.
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Old 26th April 2010, 12:48   #220
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Default Weekend tantrums!

So this weekend it was decided certain vehicles were getting their armor fixed and i decided to join in, at the garage. Picked Mag and we met up with Khan and Viji who were busy banging on perfectly ok vehicles

Needed a drill bit, so i hopped into Nishant's MM with his cousin and decided to buy a UCAL fuel pump + new filter also. UCAL has closed down and not available, shop keeper showed another make which he claimed to be good and has never given any complaints in the last 2 years. Since am paranoid and didn't want to risk being stranded without a back up pump, bought it along with MGP Puralator fuel filter for maruti van. For the time being.

After lunch, Viji and Khan had to goto lathe etc so i offered DwArF for the service, while Rudra and myself waited at the garage. Rudra had to leave early and by 5 pm i receive a call from Khan saying DwArF just shut off 1 km before the garage. I thought its the mechanical pump that was the culprit. Decided to head to the spot along with Nishant's cousin.

Tried cranking, no luck. Tried cooling the pump/coil etc no luck. But then fuel was pumping fine from the mechanical pump. Nishant's MM was called for duty and DwArF was towed to the garage.

Mech opened the jets and did some blow clean up and the cranky hurricane started. After this we fitted the new electrical pump and the fuel filter. The old electrical pump had loads of katchra inside and i suspected this went inside the carb. This garage also didn't have the timing light and it was set using traditional way of watching the point arc. Ok am not big fan of this method, though i used to use multimeter to set the RD points with decent results.

Started off from the garage and on the way to Viji's house engine was throwing tantrums, about to shut off and some heavy gasing it will revive and then run as if nothing happened. I was worried but having Khan and Spidey leading in front gave some confidence. Khan decided to take diversion to his side of town and DwArF again starts to putter. Gas down hard and he is fine. Traffic was pretty ok and i manage to drive home without getting stranded.

I thought the earlier start up with old electrical pump in place would have blocked the jets again, so Sunday morning i opened all the jets and blowed them clean. Used the cycle pump to free up the carb side also, just in case. I plonked in the old 130 jets since the 140's were really rich with no timing advance circuit connected. Started and went for a trial and its fine. But when returning again the starvation happens, tried the new electronic pump and there is no difference. Heavy throttle inputs, thats the only thing that helps.

Opened the hood and i noticed that the pump link on the carb had come loose (today going back through the post, i saw that the nut was always missing). Anyways i plonked in the nut from old carb and then saw that the pump was in open position even at idle. Adjusted the link to make it close at idle.

Started the engine and adjusted idle, idle air screw etc and its purring sweet. Took for a spin and to replicate the issue, pottered around slow and then gas down, no issues. Everything is fine. So parked the jeep and after a shower decided to drive to Rudra's house. I entered the ORR (400 mts from my house) and problem recurs

Decided that i will park DwArF and take the Swift instead.

Am 99.99% sure its the carb, cant blame it since it was stored for long and am sure my mech wouldn't have cleaned her proper, since i had told him not to finger it.

Planning to take off the carb, leave it soaked in a bucket of petrol overnight. Then strip, clean and blow dry each and every bit before re-assembling, as next step.

EDIT: One funny observation, the more the jeep runs the more silent gearbox etc becomes. lol Biggest enemy of my jeep was non usage, which i intend to correct soon.

EDIT 2: Found a diagram, should help me with my cleaning venture. Sharing for others. I think the vacuum tapping was introduced by M&M and not in the original carb design?

Got Jeep! CJ3B Hurricane.-solex34pbic.jpg

Last edited by Jaggu : 26th April 2010 at 13:04.
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Old 26th April 2010, 13:35   #221
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Do you think the # of linkages (and their quality) between acc pedal & carb is also an issue? Do you plan to sort that or not?
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Old 26th April 2010, 13:39   #222
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Jaggu your problems are also typical of a malfinctioning condensor (that sits inside the distributor). That tiny device can be the greatest headache !!

Remember in petrol engines two things trouble, fuel delivery and spark. What you need to do is get a new condensor and connect it externally to the distributor lead and ground it. That should sort out the problem once you are sure there's no dirt coming through fuel. If the problem goes when you connect an additional condensor you have your fault and can replace it inside the distributor. You can try this yourself and can do so at home. Just try it and let me know the results

Further 99.99% of mechanics don't know the science behind what they are working on. Another common goof up is these morons connect the coil directly to a 12 volt battery. Most people don't realise that most TVS Lucas coils are 6 volts and can run effectively only when connected in series with the resistor they are supplied with. Many mechanics don't know this and they try running the 6 volt coil with 12 volts. When starting things are ok but in no time the coil becomes hot and starts to fail. If your coil is the resistor variety connected directly that can also cause the same problem. Check this.

For those who don't know distributor systems work best when supplied 6 volts hence the need to drop the voltage and use a 6 volt coil even in 12 volt systems

Last edited by DKG : 26th April 2010 at 13:49.
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Old 26th April 2010, 14:34   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khan_sultan View Post
Do you think the # of linkages (and their quality) between acc pedal & carb is also an issue? Do you plan to sort that or not?
Linkage issue was sorted to a great extent on Saturday, the free play has gone and now throttle opens properly. Which actually is a saving grace during the starvation sessions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DKG View Post
Jaggu your problems are also typical of a malfinctioning condensor (that sits inside the distributor). That tiny device can be the greatest headache !!
================
For those who don't know distributor systems work best when supplied 6 volts hence the need to drop the voltage and use a 6 volt coil even in 12 volt systems
Thanks DKG, but in my case sparks were fine and the point (new) and condensor (new IIRC, will double check). But yes i don't see any resistor connected to coil and i plan to give the vehicle for complete re-wiring next week and that time i was planning to put new coils and now might as well add the resistor to the coil. The 6V theory is news to me.

Even the coil wire was just stuffed inside the coil cap, need to remove attach a washer and solder it properly instead of this jugad for the time being. I plan to do a search in JC Road to get complete set of plug wires.

Current issue though is a typical fuelling, coz when the sputter and switch off happens, generous amount of throttle helps in re-starting, without this engine doesn't fire up at all. Even while throttle is given engine is trying to respond but the fuel starvation is very evident. I have a feeling the float valve pin might be getting stuck with the muck.

First time when the mech opened the main jet i was shocked to see black gunk flow out!

I have cleaned everything including the mechanical pump yesterday, so now it's carbs turn. Also i plan to add good ol bottle filter just before the carb inlet. Any opinions on this?
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Old 26th April 2010, 15:19   #224
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Dear Jaggu - the cause of the problem is two fold. It can be either a clogged slow speed petrol jet (number 74 in the figure above), clogged progression holes just above the throttle plate in the main carburettor body (in the circuit where volume control screw no 15 fits), clogged emulsion tube (less likely because you say the engine runs properly in high speed), but the main reasons seem to be extra air leaking into the system or the dwell / timing not set as per specification. The best thing to do would be to buy a timing light / dwell angle meter and check whenever required. The garages have always worked inefficiently and will continue to do so. There is a very unconventional method of clearing the carburettor of unwanted debris. Please interchange any 2 spark plug wires and induce misfiring in the engine. Increase the engine rpm. It will misfire and in limiting condition, flames will come out through the carburettor throat (be careful, do not look into the carburettor, you can get hurt). The reigning confusion usually clears out any debris. I never believed it till my teacher introduced a dirty jet and showed it to me.

Dear Deepak - if the condenser "goes", then you will get Diwali crackers firing inside the engine & down through the tail pipe. He is able to run at high engine speed, that means it is not the condenser. By the way, the original Japanese condenser of the Japanese distributor of the 118NE car, which has a capacity of 0.22 micro farad works marginally better in the Lucas TVS distributor than the original spacification 0.25 micro farad condenser.

The main reasons seem to be air leak / incorrect dwell / incorrect timing. Correct it systematically by DOE (Design Of Experiments),

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
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Old 26th April 2010, 15:26   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaggu View Post
Gogi bhai picture of both the plates, let me know if you need from any other angles.

EDIT:
On a very serious note, to get over the fuel crisis of a poor CJ3B owner, Sreeraj has agreed to offer his tow services for the highway, attach a tow bar and start the petrol engine only at the begining of the trail

Design will be:

MM550 |<| CJ3B

Jaggu, Tow bar for your CJ3B!! This is really interesting. Do you have any design pics?

If you are are planning to get something like the pic below, .. could you please get an extra one made for me aswell??

I've been trying to get one like this for ages.


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Shibu
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