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Old 26th March 2010, 10:09   #121
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As i mentioned earlier its very evident kdang kdang kdang if i ease the throttle a lil. If i completely cut it, its better. Not sounding healthy and thats of prime importance to me.
Jaggu the noise can come from two sources primarily. The splines of the prop shaft may have worn out and secondly the universal cross joints.

If the splines have worn out simply change the entire prop shaft as the new ones will have a new set of universal joints too. You shoud get one for Rs. 1800-2000

I think the front one is 14 inches at the tube from weld to weld and 10 inches for the rear prop shaft.

You will be lucky to find the rear. The front shouldn't be that much of a problem finding new.

Buy only the Mahindra part. I think its MSL ie Mahindra Sona Ltd.

For the rear if you can't find a 10inch direct fit then the option is to cut the tube and reweld the yoke. A good machine shop will ensure the weld is made keeping in mind the need for it to be thorough. However when you cut and shorten invariably the rewelded piece may not be as balanced as the new part, but what can we do about that. A machine shop who is used to doing this alteration usually know how to reweld correctly and mine are vibration free.

Don't waste your time going for used parts as I strongly feel its a compromise at every level. Sometimes you may find new unused spares sold by govt depts as scrap to open market, but that's rare and at times mechanics try to pass off used parts as these spares.

Another area which may worry you is roughness in drive. Often you will find the rims completely warped, I guess because of offroad use. Have them sorted out and this problem will also go away.

Also renew the engine and transmission mounts, makes a big diff.

Last edited by DKG : 26th March 2010 at 10:21.
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Old 26th March 2010, 10:31   #122
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Jaggu the noise can come from two sources primarily. The splines of the prop shaft may have worn out and secondly the universal cross joints.
=============
Another area which may worry you is roughness in drive. Often you will find the rims completely warped, I guess because of offroad use. Have them sorted out and this problem will also go away.
===============
Also renew the engine and transmission mounts, makes a big diff.
Spoke to the mech and he asked me to bring the vehicle over, he will check the propeller and set it once in lathe, if it doesn't work out, check for replacement. He also mentioned that the length will be an issue with the new ones available here.

Vehicle is otherwise quite smooth and wheel disc's seems to be in good shape, so i guess thats a non issue.

Engine and gearbox mount, will ask him to replace tomorrow, ones which were not replaced.
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Old 26th March 2010, 15:02   #123
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Default Back to garage :)

Didn't waste any time lol

Just left the jeep back at the garage to get the tappet's set (if the valve cover packing is not available, cut a custom one to fix it back), and also the prop issue sorted out. Have asked him to fix new packing for the fuel float, change gearbox mounts (both engine mounts were replaced earlier) and do a starter overhaul also.

Should be getting the vehicle back by tomorrow evening.

Meanwhile had a chance to really torture test the engine for heating, in peak afternoon sun and stop and go traffic. Temp is staying putt at 80-82 degrees even after spirited driving, crawling behind vehicles etc Samu has advised me to go for a hill climb trial to rule out any heating issues. That will be for later.

Am gonna fix this DwArF!
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Old 26th March 2010, 15:16   #124
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Am gonna fix this DwArF!
Like they fix the dog? You should fix the problem and not the Dwarf. The real torture test for the engine is uphill driving.
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Old 26th March 2010, 17:53   #125
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....I have taken delivery and driven around 30 kms and boy oh boy, feeling is quite different ....
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Did some scanning in the morning, one cylinder is not firing proper at idle. So need to check that asap. ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaggu View Post
Spoke to the mech and he asked me to bring the vehicle over, he will check the...

Vehicle is otherwise quite smooth ....
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Originally Posted by Jaggu View Post
Didn't waste any time lol

Just left the jeep back at the garage ..... issue sorted out. Have asked him to fix new ...... and do a starter overhaul also.

Should be getting the vehicle back by tomorrow evening.
.....
Am gonna fix this DwArF!

No Comments .

I am loving it & happy that someone else is also getting to spend their weekend in the garage
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Old 26th March 2010, 18:56   #126
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Sorry to disappoint you Mr Khan, but am very used to this weekend in workshop, kinda stopped after marriage. Wifee just gave me a good excuse to get back, and thats all!

Lets kick some mud..... soon!
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Old 26th March 2010, 20:44   #127
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Post Specifications for CJ3B

Specifications of CJ3B with F4-134 engine:-

C.B. Point gap 0.50 mm for Prestolite, 0.40 mm for Lucas-TVS
Spark plug gap (MICO or KLG) 0.76 mm
Ignition Timing 5 deg BTDC
Tappet clearance cold
Intake 0.45 mm
Exhaust 0.40 mm
Intake opens 9 deg BTDC, closes 50 deg ABDC
Exhaust opens 47 deg BBDC, closes 12 deg ATDC

Please let me know if you need any other info.

Spike

P.S. Compression pressure is 135 psi, Idle speed for tune up is 600 rpm, Valve opening overlap is 21 deg, cam angle is different for Prestolite and Lucas-TVS distributors
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Old 26th March 2010, 21:04   #128
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Didn't waste any time lol

Just left the jeep back at the garage to get the tappet's set (if the valve cover packing is not available, cut a custom one to fix it back), and also the prop issue sorted out. Have asked him to fix new packing for the fuel float, change gearbox mounts (both engine mounts were replaced earlier) and do a starter overhaul also.

Should be getting the vehicle back by tomorrow evening.

Meanwhile had a chance to really torture test the engine for heating, in peak afternoon sun and stop and go traffic. Temp is staying putt at 80-82 degrees even after spirited driving, crawling behind vehicles etc Samu has advised me to go for a hill climb trial to rule out any heating issues. That will be for later.

Am gonna fix this DwArF!
VALVE DOOR PACKING- Use 2 valve door packing from the Amby petrol, its a cut paste job, but is reliable.

OVERHEATING ISSUES - Get the radiator overhauled, theres a good guy at RT Nagar, He had done up the radiator for the WillysMB that i had restored, The jeep was driven from Yelahanka to Ooty with some intermittent stops, Drove like a breeze. never overheated.

STARTER - Ruby electricals do the Best job for your Starter.

CARB - What carb are you using right now? What size is it and what is the Main Jet size?
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Old 26th March 2010, 21:15   #129
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Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR View Post
Specifications of CJ3B with F4-134 engine:-
============
P.S. Compression pressure is 135 psi, Idle speed for tune up is 600 rpm, Valve opening overlap is 21 deg, cam angle is different for Prestolite and Lucas-TVS distributors
Thank you Spikee's. Any info on dwell angle for tune up with a meter would be good, or can it be calculated from the above?

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VALVE DOOR PACKING- Use 2 valve door packing from the Amby petrol, its a cut paste job, but is reliable.
============
CARB - What carb are you using right now? What size is it and what is the Main Jet size?
Thanks Pavan, packing tip helps!! No overheating issue so far. Starter is working fine, just doing a preventive check up and clean up thats all.

Carb: DwArF is running stock 34 carbs with 130 main jets, and she drinksssssssss he he. Doesn't matter coz my running would be limited and i want power for OTR's. And i did 60 kms plus in under 24 hours after delivery yesterday lol
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Old 26th March 2010, 21:40   #130
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Thank you Spikee's. Any info on dwell angle for tune up with a meter would be good, or can it be calculated from the above?



Thanks Pavan, packing tip helps!! No overheating issue so far. Starter is working fine, just doing a preventive check up and clean up thats all.

Carb: DwArF is running stock 34 carbs with 130 main jets, and she drinksssssssss he he. Doesn't matter coz my running would be limited and i want power for OTR's. And i did 60 kms plus in under 24 hours after delivery yesterday lol
More fuel for the engine is also not good, 120 Jets should work wonderful.

More fuel also does'nt result in more power, wrong impression by every mechanic. 34 BC carb must use =90 slow speed jet and 115 Standard Main Jet, also change the idle jet spring, and kindly short the choke butterfly.

A radiator overhaul is a must for petrol jeeps since a 3 speed gearbox, the engine gets hot as it cannot run in its full breath.

Last edited by PAVAN KADAM : 26th March 2010 at 21:42.
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Old 26th March 2010, 21:54   #131
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But Pavan the stock jets are 140 for sea level, so in BLR i think am running the right size, 115 is for hills?? Check back on what DB mentioned.

Short choke butterfly, i didn't get this? I have connected the choke cable to make it working right now.

Radiator is kinda newly built, hence didn't do anything with it, but yes if i see any overheating will get it attended.
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Old 26th March 2010, 22:08   #132
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Here are some pictures of MAR2840. The dacoit like person is me in the driver's seat. Unfortunately MAR2840 was 2WD because 4WD was not homologated at that time for various non-technical reasons.
Hey is that Farad Bhatena sitting on top of the Jeep ??
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Old 26th March 2010, 22:23   #133
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Jaggu the CJ3B specs list the recommended dwell at 40. Have set the points to this setting and it seems to suit it. BTW you will find a wealth of info here on the CJ3B:

http://www.film.queensu.ca/cJ3B/

Last edited by DKG : 26th March 2010 at 22:25.
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Old 26th March 2010, 22:34   #134
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Yeah i have seen that DKG, actually one of the sites i started off with much before i bought a CJ . I was double checking with Spike if its the same for indian distributors, mine is a Lucas one i guess.

Had a crazy day and same the first half tomorrow, need to talk to you soon
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Old 26th March 2010, 22:47   #135
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Thank you Spikee's. Any info on dwell angle for tune up with a meter would be good, or can it be calculated from the above?
By calculations it comes to 59 deg, IIRC I saw it mentioned as 60 deg somewhere. How do you set points? First set them and then check through dwell angle meter or set it using a dwell angle meter itself? Please tell the procedure you follow.

Spike
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