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Old 3rd January 2011, 20:34   #31
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Default Re: Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD

Update on the restoration:

The body tub has been removed from the chasis and is going to be worked upon, primarily the floor has to be completely redone. Meanwhile planning to work on the engine. As the engine seems somewhat okay, we are initially planning a ring job and flushing the engine and changing all oils. Then try to use it for sometime and decide farther course of action. Am taking this a bit slow as am very inexperienced and this is my first jeep. Meanwhile have come up with some queries.

1) Mr Behram had mentioned in some other thread about keeping the original solex carb main jet size between 127.5 to 140 and venturi 25. Now, I am not able to make my mech understand what a venturi is (as if I myself know too well..). Is there any other name for it in mech lingo? And what is its purpose?

2) Also I have seen in other 3B threads that it has got a chronic problem of overheating. So, I am planning on having at least my radiator well conditioned. Many of you are using 4 core radiator (don't know what it is). Can someone inform me whether I can use my existing one or a 4 core is a must.

Also pls take a look at my pics. The front prop shaft is missing along with the 4x4 gear levers. Can you pls inform whether it can be made 4x4 ready with just by having the prop shaft and the gear levers. As per my mech, the MM540 front shaft is a direct fit and these are the only things that are required right now to become 4x4 ready. Is it correct?

Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD-02012011144.jpg

Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD-02012011138.jpg

Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD-02012011140.jpg

The solex carb
Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD-02012011143.jpg
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Old 4th January 2011, 21:26   #32
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Default Re: Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD

[quote=wanderer4x4;2195532]Update on the restoration:

2) Also I have seen in other 3B threads that it has got a chronic problem of overheating. So, I am planning on having at least my radiator well conditioned. Many of you are using 4 core radiator (don't know what it is). Can someone inform me whether I can use my existing one or a 4 core is a must.

Talking of overheating - I just noticed over the weekend that a drive of about 30/40 odd kms - I notice the foot board is quite hot, though the temp gauge shows 80 - 90 degrees only. I don't know if I am using a 4 core radiator. But I sure know that I had flushed out the radiator, put in 4 liters of coolant and rest with water and I also have a coolant reservoir attached. Is it natural to feel the heat or am I being over sensitive?

Jeep gurus Please advise?

Regards,
Shub
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Old 5th January 2011, 00:28   #33
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Default Re: Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shubz View Post
2) Also I have seen in other 3B threads that it has got a chronic problem of overheating. So, I am planning on having at least my radiator well conditioned. Many of you are using 4 core radiator (don't know what it is). Can someone inform me whether I can use my existing one or a 4 core is a must.

Talking of overheating - I just noticed over the weekend that a drive of about 30/40 odd kms - I notice the foot board is quite hot, though the temp gauge shows 80 - 90 degrees only. I don't know if I am using a 4 core radiator. But I sure know that I had flushed out the radiator, put in 4 liters of coolant and rest with water and I also have a coolant reservoir attached. Is it natural to feel the heat or am I being over sensitive?

Jeep gurus Please advise?

Regards,
Shub
See the below post from diesel_maniac in some thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel_maniac View Post
Thanks all for the input. There were two culprits behind this problem. One was the absence of small plastic/ fibre type packing that is fitted between the engine block and the fuel pump. This has lead to the FP finger getting inside the block more than it is required to. So the pump was pushing more fuel inside the Carb and hence flooding the engine. Also due to absence of this insulating packing more heat was getting transferred from the block to the FP. So the problem of FP being over heated. We also found out that the metal bushing inside the Jeeps Distributor had worn out. Due to which the it was rotating unevenly and hence creating a problem with proper point adjustment. This lead to uneven engine idling, in turn aggravating the problem. We drove the Jeep on Tuesday, after installing a packing made of a good insulating material and getting the distributor shaft bushing changed at the machine shop. The Jeep ran perfectly fine and we did not have to use the back up electric FP installed in it. Thanks once again for everyone's help on this problem.
If the firewall is not properly insulated you may have excessive heat on the foot board (inner firewall). However please check if your temp gauge is properly working too.

Secondly have your gear box oil level checked aswell, though it may not sounds linked to the problem you have listed, but I have my reasons to state it here. My OD when run lack of Oil I felt excessive heat inside my cabin so the gearbox oil level.

Also check the fan belt, if belt is slipping then getting heated by the pulley's spinning then grabbing till it slips again especially under a load

if you have low oil pressure that can be a sign of over heating too. typically smoke from under the hood would indicate over heating, the engine seizing up violently would be a sign of over heating, when it shuts down on its own thats a possible sign of over heating as well

Other options to check the distributer and carb settings which could create over heat issues.

Last edited by trammway : 5th January 2011 at 00:29.
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Old 5th January 2011, 01:05   #34
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Default Re: Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD

Quote:
Originally Posted by trammway View Post
See the below post from diesel_maniac in some thread:



If the firewall is not properly insulated you may have excessive heat on the foot board (inner firewall). However please check if your temp gauge is properly working too.

Secondly have your gear box oil level checked aswell, though it may not sounds linked to the problem you have listed, but I have my reasons to state it here. My OD when run lack of Oil I felt excessive heat inside my cabin so the gearbox oil level.

Also check the fan belt, if belt is slipping then getting heated by the pulley's spinning then grabbing till it slips again especially under a load

if you have low oil pressure that can be a sign of over heating too. typically smoke from under the hood would indicate over heating, the engine seizing up violently would be a sign of over heating, when it shuts down on its own thats a possible sign of over heating as well

Other options to check the distributer and carb settings which could create over heat issues.
-> Will have the firewall and the temp gauge checked this weekend.

-> The gear box oil/engine oil etc were checked just a week ago and there is no leakage anywhere except for a very small leakage from the transfer case - 1 drop every few hours kind of leakage. Nevertheless will get this checked again.

--> Fan belt I am sure is not slipping as the belts are relatively new and have been checked.

--> The mechanic was to have installed a light to indicate in case of low oil pressure but was unable to - he simply over looked the case. I wanted to install a Oil pressure gauge but it seems like I would have to have a hold drilled on the dashboard to hold the same.

Other options to check the distributer and carb settings which could create over heat issues.

--> Carb settings have been recently checked so I do not doubt the carb. But yes I should get the Distributor checked for sure.

Sincere apologies to Wanderer for hijacking this thread to address my queries. I thought this was the only way to attract attention of the Jeep gurus.

Last edited by Shubz : 5th January 2011 at 01:09.
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Old 5th January 2011, 20:14   #35
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Default Re: Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD

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Originally Posted by Shubz View Post
-> Sincere apologies to Wanderer for hijacking this thread to address my queries. I thought this was the only way to attract attention of the Jeep gurus.
No apology required, mate. From this I am learning things too which would come in handy for me, am absolutely sure. Infact, I like it this way - total sharing of ideas.

By the way, can anyone provide some clues to my abovementioned queries, please?
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Old 5th January 2011, 22:19   #36
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Default Re: Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD

*** Article sourced from www.radiator.com***

Jeep engines are designed to run hotter than most engines, but running too hot can cause serious damage and dramatically reduce engine life. Engines running above normal temperatures are more likely to cause breakdowns and failure of major engine parts. No question about it, keeping the engine cool is a key element in the functionality of your Jeep -and stock Jeep radiators cannot even begin to keep up with the driving habits of many Jeep owners. Most stock Jeep radiators have one row of tubes in the radiator core, which is hardly enough to cool a high performance 4WD vehicle such as a Jeep. Many stock radiators last an average of 5-7 years, and radiators in 4WD vehicles last even less. The easiest and most effective way to improve the cooling capacity of your engine is to install an upgrade radiator. Aside from being a low cost, easy to install modification for your Jeep, an upgrade radiator will improve gas mileage, emissions, and will allow for better compression and engine power.

FOUR WHEEL DRIVE CONDITIONS
In 4WD situations, greater engine stress puts additional pressure on the radiator. This type of engine stress is a common cause of overheating. The cooling system of a Jeep in 4WD dissipates enough heat to warm two average size houses. Add a warmer climate to the already stressful conditions of four-wheeling and your stock radiator could fail at any time. An upgrade radiator would enable your engine to run at peak performance while reducing the risk of overheating. Many of these upgrade radiators can be installed with little or no modifications to your vehicle, and are made to fit your specific vehicle perfectly.

MAJOR ENGINE MODIFICATIONS / ENGINE UPGRADE
An increasingly popular engine replacement for Jeeps is to install a non-stock 350 cubic inch engine. Many of these engines come from Chevy trucks and are primarily used to increase off-
road performance. With the increase in horsepower, your radiator may not be capable of handling the added pressure from the engine. Although many 350(ci) engines are compatible with stock Jeep radiators, added stress and heat from these engines regularly causes overheating, and anyone upgrading their engine or horsepower must also upgrade their radiator.

TYPES OF JEEP RADIATOR UPGRADES
The most important aspect regarding radiator upgrades is finding one that moves engine coolant at a higher volume or has more fins per inch of core surface. Many times this will mean a thicker core or more rows of tubes in the core, but this is not always the case. In some instances, upgrade radiators are the same thickness but have wider tubes. This results in more coolant mixture flowing through the radiator and engine. Sometimes the upgrade radiator will cool more efficiently because it has more fins per inch of core surface. In either case, the result is a more efficient running engine. Here are common upgrade radiators for several Jeep vehicles:

CJ
Most of the CJ's came with a 3-row core. You can tell the exact amount of rows by draining some of the radiator fluid and looking into the filler neck. By looking down the filler neck you should then be able to see the number of rows in the core.

MEASURING THE CORE OF YOUR RADIATOR
Measuring the core of your radiator is a key element in being able to insure correct fit on your first order. To measure the radiator core, you need to obtain proper measurements on the thickness of the core, the height of the core, and the length of the core. Make sure you are measuring the core only. Do not measure the tanks, mounting brackets, or any other part of the radiator or fan shroud. Only measure the honeycomb, finned part of the radiator. With other engine parts in the way, it is sometimes difficult to obtain a proper measurement. Try to be as accurate as possible with these measurements, because it may make the difference between ordering the correct or incorrect radiator.

SOME IMPORTANT THINGS TO REMEMBER...
Replacing your existing radiator with an upgrade will not necessarily make your engine run cooler, but it will prevent the engine from overheating better than the stock radiator. The engine in your Jeep runs best at a fairly high temperature. When the engine is cold, components wear out faster, the engine is less efficient, and the vehicle emits more pollution. So another job of the cooling system is to allow the engine to heat properly and quickly, and then to maintain the engine at a consistent temperature. Also, installation of an upgrade radiator is not the only step in ensuring that your engine is running at proper temperature. Upon replacing or upgrading your radiator you should also have the engine flushed, check the thermostat for proper opening and closing, conduct a visual inspection of all cooling system components including all belts and hoses, and test the engine fan for proper operation.

Hope this info helps you with one of the queries.

Regards,
Shubz
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Old 5th January 2011, 22:48   #37
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Default Re: Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD

Are you sure your temp gauge is showing the correct reading, then do get engine tune up and radiator checked up. Petrol engines generally keep 60 deg during normal cooling, when stressed goes upto 80. DwArF also sticks to 60 these days with cooler temp in BLR.
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Old 5th January 2011, 23:43   #38
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Default Re: Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaggu View Post
Are you sure your temp gauge is showing the correct reading, then do get engine tune up and radiator checked up. Petrol engines generally keep 60 deg during normal cooling, when stressed goes upto 80. DwArF also sticks to 60 these days with cooler temp in BLR.
I am not sure of any of the gauges in The Hulk except for the Amp meter. I will have the radiator checked tomorrow. I opened the radiator cap after running the engine for a few mins. it didn't seem like there was much of circulation. The fluid was still dark green at the top. Secondly, the overflow reservoir also seem to just have water and no green fluid. So I guess I really need to have the radiator checked. I hope I have not messed with the engine running it at 80. The only solace is I have not used the Jeep for very long runs. At max 60 kims round trip.

Apologies once again to the owner of this thread.
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Old 6th January 2011, 23:55   #39
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Default Re: Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD

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Originally Posted by Shubz View Post
I hope I have not messed with the engine running it at 80. The only solace is I have not used the Jeep for very long runs. At max 60 kims round trip.
Apologies once again to the owner of this thread.
So is temp of 80 for a 3B on a higher side? I thought 80 to 90 is the normal temp range.
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Old 7th January 2011, 00:17   #40
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Default Re: Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD

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Originally Posted by wanderer4x4 View Post
So is temp of 80 for a 3B on a higher side? I thought 80 to 90 is the normal temp range.
That is what even I thought of and was advised by the mechanic. 80 - 90 is the optimal running temp range. If it is crossing 90 then it is cause for alarm. But Jaggu's Dwarf running at 60 made me scramble.

I am going to try the "Shroud" if my mechanic has not already changed the distance between the fan and the radiator. Will go for the shroud nevertheless.
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Old 23rd January 2011, 15:11   #41
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Default Updates on the restoration

Hi friends,

Some update pics of the job being carried out (very slowly at that, it seems the garage guys work on my vehicle only on saturdays when I am expected to visit them ). Works done till now are -

1) the chasis has been scrubbed of all the dirt and grease. It has been found that there are 2 hairline cracks on both sides of the chasis where the rear shock absorber mountings are. We are planning to do some repairs there. Hope that is not a very serious issue.
2) Floor is being rebuilt with new sheet.
3) Engine is being serviced and all rubber and plastic parts being replaced.

Here I have few queries- the petrol line from the tank to the pump was a metal one, but it is broken in between. So, I am trying to source one, but if I fail to, what could be the best alternative? Also, when asked about venturi 24 mm in the carb the mech said it must be the "butterfly". Is it?

Sorry about the poor quality of the pics. Taken in low light with cell camera.

Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD-22012011155.jpg

Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD-22012011156.jpg

Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD-22012011158.jpg

Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD-22012011159.jpg
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Old 23rd January 2011, 17:25   #42
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Default Re: Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD

24mm is the venturi size.That is the carb throat size or the diameter of the big hole in the back of the carb where it ingests air.

Good luck,you seem to have a herculean task ahead of you.

Last edited by motocamp : 23rd January 2011 at 17:27.
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Old 23rd January 2011, 20:08   #43
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Default Re: Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD

This should help you with the carb http://5485849099505208640-a-1802744...attredirects=0
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Old 23rd January 2011, 20:47   #44
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Default Re: Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD

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Good luck,you seem to have a herculean task ahead of you.
Well, yes..as the work is progressing I am getting to understand the enormity of the task for someone inexperienced like me. But, am still loving it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaggu View Post
Thanks, Jaggu, that contained a wealth of info on the solex, would be a great help in understanding the finer points. Thanks again.

Also, can someone throw some light on the fine cracks on the chasis around where the rear shock mountings are bolted. Should it be a cause for concern or its ok with repair? The mech says its not a serious thing, but still..

Last edited by wanderer4x4 : 23rd January 2011 at 20:59. Reason: Adding some more
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Old 13th February 2011, 14:06   #45
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Default Some update photos

Hi All,

just wanted to share some updates on the restoration. The floor has now been completed with new sheet and though I wanted to cut up the body tub as little as possible it seems that almost the entire body tub will need new sheets because of heavy rusting. Only the front firewall side will survive it seems. (Rusting has eaten up most of the tub and is beyond my expectation, am feeling kind of "what I've got myself into"...but still loving it though)Some of the parts have also been sourced like the tie rod ends, drag link, shackle assy, clutch disk, piston rings etc. Am trying to minimise major works now as I first want to start the engine and run it for 2-3 months to understand it fully and then go ahead. But, some parts it seems are not going to help, so changing them.

I have two queries here-
1) I have to change the current brake cylinders, Master cyl, lining kit etc. But, my spare parts supplier has also offerred me another complete set of used but good conditioned MM540 brake system for Rs 3500. So, which option I should go for?
2) Please take a look at the steering box pictures. Its embossed "ROSS" and not "XLO" which I suppose is better. The spares guy is offerring a new XLO type box for LHD for Rs 5K. So shall I bite it and change the box or this ROSS one will also do? Current one is working it seems while towing.

Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD-13022011201.jpg

Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD-13022011202.jpg

Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD-13022011204.jpg

Yippie!! Finally bought the dream - 1966 CJ3B LHD-13022011206.jpg
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