Quote:
|
Originally Posted by shuvc -Is it difficult to pass the speaker wire from the footwell, through the pipe that goes into the front doors? Any techniques that might help? |
Not difficult. Pass the wire through the same tube that carries the power window wire etc. For this, you'll have to detach that tube at both ends and use a metal
taar at the door end and push it out from the other end. Then connect the wire to the
taar using adhesive tape or something and pull the taar out so that the wire now passes through the tube.
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by shuvc - To connect the fuse, before splitting the cable I guess I need to disconnect it at either the battery end or the Amp end? Which is preferrable? I'd prefer Amp end. |
Not required if your cutter has insulated handles. Preferable end is the battery end however. Downstream of the cutting point you cant damage anything unless the system is powered on.
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by shuvc - Does it require any special tool to fix the speaker wire to the Crimp & Spade terminals? |
Ideally a crimping plier. Next best, a regular plier.
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by shuvc - The OEM plastic sheet covering the door needs to be removed for damping the metal? Will this have any effect on water seeping through during the monsoons? |
Remove it and replace it with a damping mat of the same size.
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by shuvc - How many sq ft of damping required for the front doors? Say I damp the door pad inner and bits of the metal. 7-10sq ft each door? |
For full damping, i.e. one sheet on the door inner skin, to replace the plastic sheet and wherever you can accomodate on the door panel, you're looking at about 12-15 sq. ft. per door.
Quote:
|
Originally Posted by shuvc - What would be the approx weight of a 12" sub in a sealed box? I'm wondering if it'll topple over, like the 'golu' Soomoku used to when taking sharp corners or during hard braking. |
Approx 7-8 kilos. If the enclosure has a broader base, it'll not topple.