Quote:
Originally Posted by superavi Byas, The car looks like a dream!
What shape are the mechanicals in? You've mentioned something about getting them back into shape? |
In much better shape now. Suspension/steering/brakes are all excellent now (front brake discs should be replaced in the next 2-3K -- I have those, and I want to replace the hoses from the reservoir to the master cylinder -- I've got the original blue hoses). I had been concerned about the "shimmy" as that could have been cost above $1K if there were multiple things to replace. Was very glad to have fixed that issue.
Interior and electricals are in great shape as I've redone both.
Body has a little rust in 5 areas -- rear pan on both sides -- these were fixed locally but I'm not happy with the quality of the fix; bottom of the rear qtr windows (both sides); and some small spots on the rear shelf (this should be easy fix). I plan to pick up replacement panels for the first 4 areas in March.
Gearbox had seemed like a problem as it would not shift into second and would sometimes go into reverse instead. Mechanic had said it was 2nd gear synchro and required gearbox rebuild. But, when I installed a new shifter bushing and adjusted the shift mechanism, all the problems went away.
Engine:
* The 34PICT-3 carb is a no-name replacement. I rebuilt it, but the auto choke valve sticks and the butterfly throttle shaft is worn (I've done a temp fix with some o-rings) -- I've found a source who will supply me with a rebuilt/rebushed Solex German carb which is better than the Bocar versions.
* The fuel pump is functional but the wrong type and leaking (but there is also an electric back up pump).
* There's a small oil leak from the main seal.
* Another small oil leak from pushrod tubes for the #3 cylinder.
* I've adjusted valve timing
* The oil pressure light comes on when hot. I've cleaned out the pressure and relief valves, but if the pressure problem is real, then it could be weak springs in the valves, or weakened oil pump, or perhaps just the sender is faulty. I'm looking for a good oil pressure gauge to confirm the situation.
I've not been able to get my compression gauge on to test compression, though the car runs well and does not consume oil in the 1.5K km that I've driven.
I plan to drop the engine and remove, repaint, and reinstall the engine tin as I suspect all parts of the tin have not been installed correctly. Plus while I have the engine off, I can refresh the engine compartment and install new heat shields. Properly installed engine tin is important for cooling on these aircooled engines. Will redo all the engine seals at that point and perhaps replace the oil pump.
So, nothing major, but I need to plan it out so I can do the remaining stuff in the right order. The biggest thing left is to redo the top and headliner which will be a major undertaking.
My plan is to do drop the engine and do the body work at the same time. Once I get both done and some repaint/touch up, I will do the top.
I need to find someone who will come to my house and do the body work -- or I will have to trailer the car to a body shop once I get the engine off -- not sure if this is feasible here. Or I've got buy some welding equipment and HVLP spray & compressor and do the bodywork myself. On that note... are there places that rent equipment?
Byas