Confusion--Two Amps and five speakers!!

[kb100]

GURUS..

Without taking names Muchas Gracias to everyone who has helped me reach till here so far... Just need your help to finish the job! (and hopefully ONLY the job!!)


I have already BOUGHT a BLAU PA275 amp... I am planning to pick up the Alpine 575 (making sure I dont run outta "gasp" - keeping things future-proof)

The 275's were to have driven IDQ 12" or Energy 300's ...

Now I find that with the 3/4 channel bridged the 545's would give 500 SMACKS ... way more than the 275's 200W (@4 ohms) .. I am now confused ...

1. Do I use 545 to drive front & rear and the 275 for the Sub

Or is it better to use the Alpine 3/4 channels Bridged for the sub then do I have to ..

2. Buy a bigger or better sub for the power - 500 Watts?

The other two channels of the Alpine will continue to give me 125w @ 4 ohm , 14.4 volts .... and the Blau 275 puts out 75 Watts each at 12V.

3. I am planning to use 6.5" comps in the front and matching 6.5" co-ax in the rear.

So which one of the Amplifiers do I use and where.. the fronts and the rears?

4. I am looking at the Kappa/Hertz Hi-Energy range - suggestions on comparable/better alternates welcome!

I am looking for "TIMBRE" ... Bass that "THOCKS" .. and Highs that well... I kinda want hear the striker strum...? (I dont quite get the Forward/Laid-back bit!) .. I like DEPTH - dont like flat tinny sounds a la Bose.

GURUS .... I had brought all of 4,500 Rupees to this table for a pair of replacements for my OE front speakers. JUST LOOK AT WHAT ALL OF YOU HAVE GOT ME INTO!!!

I am running the serious danger of being slaughtered by my wife!!!

So improvements you suggest needs to be now kept within 10% of the overall budget!

Romba Tanx!

[navin]

KB, LOL I wish I had such choices!

If you are using a 275 and 545 i suggest the following.

Use ch. 1 and 2 for the front comps.
Use ch. 3 and 4 bridged for the sub
Use the PA 275 for the rear.

why.

1. the amp with the best "voice" should be used for the front (545 ch 1&2)
2. the amp that can swing the most amps should be used for the sub (545 ch. 3&4)
the rear gets the leftovers.

If I were you I would get the 345 instead and samve some buck for better cables. Then use the 345 for front and rear and the 275 for the sub.

[jkdas]

The amp first then teh speakers eh?

Alright, now can someone post the specs of both the Alpine units? and KB100, the price you would be paying for the amp you specified.

[kb100]

Originally Posted by navin

the rear gets the leftovers.

If I were you I would get the 345 instead and samve some buck for better cables. Then use the 345 for front and rear and the 275 for the sub.

... Just look at this !!... We are already referring to my ONE WEEK old purchase in Past tense!! .. as "Leftovers!!"

Dont mind the 345.... they will give 300 W bridged for teh Sub..

The balance two will sit smack in the 275 territory @ 75 Watts each!...

Is this a possiblility too??.. if so which one do we use where??.. Or is the overall tonal balance better with the 345's driving the 4 channels and the 275 thr subs..


Also between the 545 and the 345, which one will make those speaks "SING" better??

[kb100]

MRV-F345 = $ 265 (online car stereo)


[Power Features]
• Bass EQ (45Hz, +16dB for CH3/4)
• Multimode Capability (CH3/4)
• MOS-FET Power Supply Transistor
• BI-POLAR Output Transistor
• Amplifier Link (Model 2005)
• Phase Selector
• Speaker Input (RCA conversion)
• RCA Pre-out
• Independent Variable Crossover
• Over Current Protection
• High Temperatur Protection
• STAR Circuit
• Digital Control Center Display
• Discrete Pre-amp Stage
• DC-DC PWM Power Supply

[Power Specifications]
• Weight 4.2 kg
• Dimensions 330 x 60 x 228 mm
• S/N Ratio 93dBA
• 300W x 1 Bridge (4ohm, 14.4V, 0.3% THD, CH3/4)
• 75W x 1 Bridge (4ohm, 14.4V, 0.3% THD, CH1/2)
• 50W x 4 RMS (4ohm, 12.0V, 0.08% THD)
• 75W x 4 RMS (4ohm, 14.4V, 0.08% THD)
• Max. 140W x 4
• Input Sensitivity 0.2-4V (at 10k ohm)


MRV-F545 = $ 334 (online car stereo)


[Power Features]
• Bass EQ (45Hz, +16dB for CH3/4)
• Multimode Capability (CH3/4)
• MOS-FET Power Supply Transistor
• BI-POLAR Output Transistor
• Amplifier Link (Model 2005)
• Phase Selector
• Speaker Input (RCA conversion)
• RCA Pre-out
• Independent Variable Crossover
• Over Current Protection
• High Temperatur Protection
• STAR Circuit
• Digital Control Center Display
• Discrete Pre-amp Stage
• DC-DC PWM Power Supply
• MOS-FET Output & Power Supply Transistor

[Power Specifications]
• Weight 5.6 kg
• Dimensions 420 x 60 x 228 mm
• Frequency Response 20Hz-20kHz (0, -1dB)
• Input Sensitivity 0.2-4V (at 10k ohm)
• S/N Ratio 96dBA
• 500W x 1 Bridge (4ohm, 14.4V, 0.3% THD, CH3/4)
• 125W x 1 Bridge (4ohm, 14.4V, 0.3% THD, CH1/2)
• 100W x 4 RMS (4ohm, 12.0V, 0.08% THD)
• 125W x 4 RMS (4ohm, 14.4V, 0.08% THD)
• Max. 225W x 4

[navin]

Originally Posted by kb100Also between the 545 and the 345, which one will make those speaks [B

"SING"[/b] better??

the 545 will prvide you better headroom (control) though I doubt you will really need the headroom in real world use.

for the $60 difference better cables would give you a much more percetable improvement in sound. remember this is car audio system and not an amplifer we are talking about.

a chain is only as strong as the weakest link.

[kb100]

WOKAY...345 it is!!

Navin SAAB.. Pls suggest the various cables/makes/models you recommned for each stage of this setup

Ps: Gunbir just sent me his complete price list -- Just got off the ventilator.. Anybody needs Bricks - I got plenty here !! ????

[rsjaurr]

KB100,initially instead of buying two amps,u could have gone for alpine 450 or some other 5ch/6ch amplifier.That could have made install a bit more neat.

Anyway i would recommend 1st deciding abt budget and then going for ICE stuff.If u have budget for 545,go for it.Why buy less powerful/quality amp if u got the budget.

And as subw r more power hungry,i would recommend feeding 'em on separate amp,blau275 in ur case.

Do keep good budget for good wiring and install.get the box [sealed box i suppose]made by some local guy and use terminal plugs and banana plugs so that u can easily disconnect and remove subw box when u need to.
I am using wiring stuff sent by Gunbir and i'm very much satisfied with the quality.

[kb100]

Navinji... waiting for your responseee.....

Doc... Box being designed by Gunbir and his "mad-scientist' partner JB

He was talking about a ported box though.... ?????

[navin]

Originally Posted by kb100

Navin SAAB.. Pls suggest the various cables/makes/models you recommned for each stage of this setup

JBL makes a kit for about 3K.
Audison makes some decent wire too.
and lastly Monster Interlink Jr. is nice wire atleast it is well made and wont allow noise.
My favourites are Steetwires and Twister.

[navin]

Originally Posted by rsjaurr

KB100,initially instead of buying two amps,u could have gone for alpine 450 or some other 5ch/6ch amplifier.That could have made install a bit more neat.

And as subw r more power hungry,i would recommend feeding 'em on separate amp,blau275 in ur case..

Doc, lets consdier the total budget. I was advising JB to spend some of that money he was using for the amp on cables. There is not a whole lot of difference between 75Wrms and 125Wrms in real world situations with 89-90db sens speakers.

hte 450 would make a nicer install but it is not available and KB already got the PA275.

The Alpine 545 swings more amps than the PA275 in bridged mode and hence would make a better sub amp. The 345 is about the same as the 575 and it makes sense to use it's sweetness for the rear instead of wasting that on the sub.

[rsjaurr]

Originally Posted by navin

Doc, lets consdier the total budget. I was advising JB to spend some of that money he was using for the amp on cables. There is not a whole lot of difference between 75Wrms and 125Wrms in real world situations with 89-90db sens speakers.

hte 450 would make a nicer install but it is not available and KB already got the PA275.

The Alpine 545 swings more amps than the PA275 in bridged mode and hence would make a better sub amp. The 345 is about the same as the 575 and it makes sense to use it's sweetness for the rear instead of wasting that on the sub.

oh yeah........i agree with u navin.
But KB100 got huge budget. So we should not worry abt his budget.

If he is going for SQ setup[like infinty speakers],he needs as much power as he can [rather his amp] manage.
Now my JL audio is rated 110w rms @14.4 @2ohm,but i still want to have more power,though not sure why.lol.Just human nature i guess.

Abt ur last few words,thats what i also meant that alpine amp's [545 or 345]sweetness should be used for rear spk rather than subw.

And i dont think blau275's 250w is insufficient for any subw.

[kb100]

I need an education in what the DB in speakers is all about... I found, for instance, the db of JBL (forget the series) to be higher than the Hertz Energy... Therefore what happens?

Is there any thread on this subject - I am yet to come to terms with the search function here

[viper]

Originally Posted by navin

JBL makes a kit for about 3K.
Audison makes some decent wire too.
and lastly Monster Interlink Jr. is nice wire atleast it is well made and wont allow noise.
My favourites are Steetwires and Twister.

Hey,

You can try Esoteric Audio, Kimber Kable and Stinger as well. Kimber is excellent but priced a bit on the higher side.


Viper

[kb100]

Originally Posted by viper

Hey,

You can try Esoteric Audio, Kimber Kable and Stinger as well. Kimber is excellent but priced a bit on the higher side.


Viper

KITNA... KEM ... HOW MANY FULOOS...

Sure will help if you can indicate what each of these kits will cost ..

EGAD ... I have a twin Amp Setup!!

Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr