maximum size of speaker in an indica....

[Bass&Trouble]

Does this thread somehow suggest that someone out here wants to buy a good quality 3-way component set?

In that case I have my Canton Pullman 3.28 which I don't need any more thanks to the Corals which I think I should get to the marketplace. It's an old model but unused.

[panky12345]

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

LOL by that logic, I should be happier when you buy Infinity panky- it's the same company

I know sam bhaiya, lekin....thats how my budget permits....to keep ya happy on JBL only!

[panky12345]

thanx everyone! aage kaa to ho gaya...ab thoda peeche bhi dekh lein!

wondering if anything could be done to accomodate a pair of components at the rear doors as well....cauz by default, Indica does not has a stock location to accomodate the speakers at the rear and trunk is gonna be full with sub(s) in ported box(es).

custom-made fiberglass enclosure....na baba, too expensive.

[panky12345]

Originally Posted by panky12345

custom-made fiberglass enclosure....na baba, too expensive.

sorry, if NOT too expensive!

[panky12345]

gunman bhaiya.....kahan ho aap? or i'm too early by IST!!

[kb100]

Originally Posted by navin

nice gunbir...love your show and tell pics...

there are many 4" components out there. mate them to a 6" woofer and you can make your own 3 way speaker by modifying the crossover.

How do you modify a crossover.... I have found the price difference between a 2-way and a three way is rather steep... definitely does look like most maufactureres are charging a premium for it...

In fact I had almost decided going Active would be a much cheaper alternative..however this would also be an attactive proposition for those who want to go passive, yet keep costs in control...

[Bass&Trouble]

I wouldn't call modifying a 2-way crossover to support a 3-way system a particularly easy job. The easier option, as JB professes, would be to use the drivers in concern in an active configuration by using a good quality active crossover, and get rid of the passives altogether.

[Autophile]

Originally Posted by kb100

How do you modify a crossover.... I have found the price difference between a 2-way and a three way is rather steep... definitely does look like most maufactureres are charging a premium for it...

In fact I had almost decided going Active would be a much cheaper alternative..however this would also be an attactive proposition for those who want to go passive, yet keep costs in control...

Modification of crossover will not help. The price difference between 2-way and 3-way is not because of the crossover. Its because of the addition of a midrange driver which is generally expensive moreover dome midranges are expensive than cones.

Going passive is the cost effective way of going 3-way. In active there are problems caused mainly by additional expenses .

There are very few headunits which have provision for 4-way active system and are expensive (eg. Clarion HX-D2, Pioneer P9 combo & ODR's etc). Adding a crossover is a solution but a good quality crossover costs as much as a heaunit itself, when added with the cost of the headunit comes same as the HX-D2's and P9's which are better options anyday.

Also the amplication cost increases as you need only two channel in passive front stage vs 6ch in 3-way active and 4 ch in 2-way active.

[navin]

Originally Posted by Autophile

Modification of crossover will not help. ...
Also the amplication cost increases as you need only two channel in passive front stage vs 6ch in 3-way active and 4 ch in 2-way active.

The 4ch 2 way active mated to a 2 way passive (making a 3 way) might be the best option. 4 ch. amps are common. Using on 4 ch amp to power 3 way front speakers and using a second 4 ch amp to power the sub and rears is a grea idea if you own a car that can accomodate a midrange and tweeter on the dash.

BTW most midrange domes dont go mcuh below 250-300Hz. Midrange cones can go lower and the expense of some loss in upper mid detail. BTW 300Hz is about the 50% mark on the Energy spectrum. About 50% of musical energy is below 300Hz and 50% is above.

[Autophile]

Originally Posted by navin

BTW most midrange domes dont go mcuh below 250-300Hz. Midrange cones can go lower and the expense of some loss in upper mid detail..

Right navin, dome midrange sound better than cone midrange because of low moving mass of the diaphragm and the dispersion pattern of dome. The issue is that they don't go low.

As in the case of midbass their ability to produce midbass well or midrange well same happens in the midranges ability to play upper midrange well or lower midrange well, either of one can happen. Its upto a persons choice what he/she wants.

[Bass&Trouble]

If a DIY movement has to be put in place, maybe you guys could let me know, since Peerless makes a wide variety of drivers that would be very useful to the DIY enthusiast. I'm actually reminded of this by the mention of the dome midrange (DMR), and Peerless makes a 2" metal-dome DMR which is quite a sparkling lil fella. Another Peerless product that I think could be of interest in the car audio domain is a 4" enclosed midrange that they make. It's a 4" glass fiber cone neo motor driver with a rear chamber. This could be useful for cars like the Santro where the 4" stock location upfront is a silly one which causes the bass to cancel unless used in conjunction with a steep and high, high-pass filter. It is practically pointless to invest in an expensive 4" component set for a car with a location like that. The only drawback of the Peerless 4" midrange however, is the mounting depth. The rear chamber is about 4" deep, and would probably not fit into the dash of an Indica, but I haven't tried. I believe the Peerless products are exceptionally good quality for the money. I haven't had the time to explore the potential of such products in-car to the fullest, but would willingly help anyone wishing to engage in the same.

[navin]

B&T, I sincerly wish and hope that Peerless India is able to help DIYers. However I I fully understand their inability to do so given that we are such a small community with such extreme demands.

[Autophile]

And extreme weather conditions of India which peerless drivers has to deal with

[navin]

It is usally the surround that dies first and this is easily rectified using butyl rubber.

[Bass&Trouble]

I don't see the trouble with Peerless speakers in the Indian environment. And none of the Peerless speakers employ foam/ cloth surrounds, all are butyl rubber, and they have almost competely stopped making paper cone speakers except for some overseas home audio clients.