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Old 20th July 2006, 20:59   #1 (permalink)
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Ok guys, here I am back with a good week of hoilday or what ever you say. I just wanna start with one thing, I have taken a vdo of a install it can be my install or anyone other but dont ask me who`s install it is.I am gonna post some pics of that same vdo as it will be easy for all to see without downloading the vdo.

I just wanna hear from the experts of this forum that is this normal voltage which are shown in the vdo. One more thing in the pic no one cannot tell which car it is , which make is the audio equipment , who is installer, who is the cutomer......blah blah so dont starting pointing fingers on me, but one thing I am gonna confirm is that the equipment used in this install is top of the line not the local alpine or such. so guys put ur expert advice is it normal to have such voltages in a car audio install.







and the best one is the last one....lol




Mods I posted on this thread because it is related to power segement of the car audio. If not ok u can shift to the appropiate thread.
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Old 20th July 2006, 21:13   #2 (permalink)
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WAH.... LBM's BAK!!... and looks like back with some BIG-BANG!!

BUddy... surely this has to be yours... why the secrecy... cant wait for you to tell us all!1

Anyways... those voltage readings... are they during transients??.. or regular load.... seems low man... way low... you Batt surely is'nt getting charged!
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Old 20th July 2006, 21:43   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kb100
Anyways... those voltage readings... are they during transients??.. or regular load.... seems low man... way low... you Batt surely is'nt getting charged!
Kb, even during a transient, the voltage does not usually drop 3-4 volts below normal unless the battery is really raped.

LBM, I don't need to see the video to hear the amps screaming for help! (Whatever the cause may be)
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Old 20th July 2006, 22:24   #4 (permalink)
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ok about the transient or regular here are the complete set of readings which i have got are as below , the whole vdo is 45 sec long and the song i played was in da club by our 50 cents any ways here are the reading u can get some idea from that...


11.4
12.0
10.3
11.7
11.4
9.5
11
10.5
12.3
10.1
12.3
11.6
9.7
12.2
11.9
11.1
12.2
11.5
12.2
9.7
11.4
11.7
10.4
10.1
9.3
12.3


ok this will give u a clear picture what the amps are going through....

still waiting for the other experts advice...........
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Old 20th July 2006, 23:24   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker
the song i played was in da club by our 50 cents ......
hmmmm... not familiar with the dude.. or the song... sorry not my genre... but looks like major bass WHUMMMPS!!

Calling all "Other" experts!! (... Enter --- SAM)
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Last edited by kb100 : 20th July 2006 at 23:27.
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Old 21st July 2006, 00:06   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker
Ok guys, here I am back with a good week of hoilday or what ever you say. I just wanna start with one thing, I have taken a vdo of a install it can be my.....
I dont understand the nature of the query.

Ok so the voltage on those meters looks low. That means that
a) the amps output has compressed. OR
b) the battery is dumping much more current to compensate for the drop in voltage

1. Are those meters correct
2. RMS readings from an analog meter would make for a clearer picture
3. compressed output sounds louder just ask any radio station. I can see LBM reaching for his SPL meter :-) LOL.
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Old 21st July 2006, 00:11   #7 (permalink)
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Well, it's obviously an SPL driven car which is pretty much running at peak capacity or well over.

These reading are quite similar to the erstwhile Palio Eyeballer. Obviously the seriously low end notes are probably getting all clipped here.

On the Palio eyeballer, while running at higher SPLs, I used to hook up a 150A external power supply that was running at 14.4V to achieve what i wanted. Whatever you are seeing LBM, is normal for an abnormally run SPL system:
Regular car electricals (Stock alternator, possibly stock battery) on a system that obviously needs more juice than it's getting.
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Last edited by Sam Kapasi : 21st July 2006 at 00:12.
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Old 21st July 2006, 00:38   #8 (permalink)
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ok since two of u have given the real picture here. Yes it is a spl setup with nearly or less than power requriements as compared to my setup. So the question I was asking is that is this voltage drop should be there while installing the system or the installer should know that the power requirment of the audio system would be more than the car can deliver. Here I am not going indepth of amperage or some thing I am seen the final product of the install which is measured in volts and which are really low....

Navin ji the reading are in .1 to .2 volts differance only when check by a hand held multimeter.

One more thing I wanna add here is that the setup was played flat no enhancments we there like bass boost.
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Old 21st July 2006, 00:43   #9 (permalink)
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...........mods please delete............
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Last edited by s0uljah : 21st July 2006 at 00:45.
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Old 21st July 2006, 11:39   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi
On the Palio eyeballer, while running at higher SPLs, I used to hook up a 150A external power supply that was running at 14.4V to achieve what i wanted.
Sam what reading did u get when u play the system with connecting the 150 amps power supply??????????

And where are our other guru log.........Please put some of ur experiance to it.....
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Old 21st July 2006, 11:59   #11 (permalink)
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LBM...LIke Navin I am also confused here... what is the question here?... obviously YES the electricals are crazily overloaded... YES the installer should know the basics of computing these loads... and YES he should also know the solution.. else its like asking a BUTCHER about Brain Surgery!!!!!
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Old 21st July 2006, 12:20   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kb100
YES the installer should know the basics of computing these loads... and YES he should also know the solution.. else its like asking a BUTCHER about Brain Surgery!!!!!
Ok kb u said that the installer should be knowing the loads of the install , and he must be having a solution to it then why did he installed the setup with knowing that the load will be more than the car can handle???? (this is my main question) Hope u will be getting my point......
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Old 21st July 2006, 12:47   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker
Ok kb u said that the installer should be knowing the loads of the install , and he must be having a solution to it then why did he installed the setup with knowing that the load will be more than the car can handle???? (this is my main question) Hope u will be getting my point......
To answer this question perhaps you need to detail this set up... what all has gone into it... was the engine running while these readings were taken... the make and the accurancy of the voltmeter.. the car.. the capacity of the alternator.. the battery, its specs and its condition, etc etc etc.....

Else what answer can anyone provide without seeing/ knowing all of the above?

If its a knowledgable installer then maybe he has an argument for doing it the way it has been done... and maybe he has a method of getting it to behave when required to (add more external juice etc) .. look around for some external jacks..
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Old 21st July 2006, 13:23   #14 (permalink)
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All the stuff installed in this setup is brand new and again I wanna say it that it is best stuff avalable this include speaker, amps, woofers, power cable, speaker cable, rca, capacitor and all the rest of the stuff involved. any ways the total load is 2000 watts rms approx. And the alternater is a stock one. Sorry I missed out on the battery but the size would be atlest 70 AH.

Yes the engine was running when the reading were taken.

The voltmeter error was in the range of .1 to .2 volts ( as said earlier)

I dont know about the installer argument ???? How can I know about his comments..

And there is no external jack connection there in the install, as it is not a demo car.......lol
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Old 21st July 2006, 13:59   #15 (permalink)
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LBM... 200 watts?? ... Its clear then that this is a SPL or a SQL set up.. no stock alternator in any car can take the load... If you say its top brand then the insaller must have been good too to be usingt those brands... Then I am sure he would have set it up taking botht the clients needs and the these limitations into count... In other words he would have set it up to ensure that the systems performs AT A CERTAIN VOLUME LEVEL.. at which point all the parameters will be in control..

Remember ... any set up can be driven into cliiping...

Anyways... to me it does seem like this is the only explanation... maybe you can tell us the actual settings and the numbers...
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