Power to the People!

[sonic_boom]

Hi everyone!
I have a 2006 Alto Lxi with Sony CD6800X (52W X4) head unit and two Xplod 6938(400W max / 100W RMS) 3-way speakers in the rear and two smaller round Xplods(30W RMS) in the front.

But since the setup lacks bass I want to go for a Subwoofer and of course a matching Amp to power it. Sony has 1000W max (300W RMS) subwoofers but the problem is that I think their amps are too underpowered for the subwoofers.(110 W RMS @ 4ohms for single channel). If this is not the case then please correct me as then I wud be more than happy to buy sony xplod 2-channel amp(Rs. 3K).

Could anyone please suggest me an reputed amplifier under Rs 6000/- that has enough power(300 W RMS at 4ohms) to power the Sony Xplod sub.Single channels amp are also welcome since I plan to run just the subwoofer from the amp and other speakers speakers thru the head unit.

Or should I chuck the whole idea and go for a Bass Tube with built in amp(suggest a model under 6K).

I am looking for a loose boom-effect bass rather than tight thumping beats.

PS-Pls do not suggest bandpass-box subs as building them is complicated.

[navin]

Originally Posted by sonic_boom

I have a 2006 Alto Lxi with Sony CD6800X (52W X4) head unit and two Xplod 6938(400W max / 100W RMS) 3-way speakers in the rear and two smaller round Xplods(30W RMS) in the front.
Sony has 1000W max (300W RMS) subwoofers Could anyone please suggest me an reputed amplifier under Rs 6000/- that has enough power(300 W RMS at 4ohms) to power the Sony Xplod sub..

Look at Sony SD series amps since you like Sony so much or maybe the Pio 7200M (both are over 6K grey).

[Sam Kapasi]

You will not get a Powered Bass tube for 6K.

The best subwoofer amplifier for that price is the Pioneer 6100.

If you have not bought the sony subwoofer already, avoid it. It doesn't sound that good. If youre on a low budget, it's better to buy a pioneer subwoofer.

The best option, since you like boomy bass, is to buy a bass tube for about 5-6K and buy a pioneer amplifier to drive it.

[low_bass_makker]

i would say go for a pioneer sub.....it will cost 3.5k max....and if you can manage a second hand amp then only you can achive the same in this budget ok 6-7k....

but there is one more option which i would say not to go for but will be fine if you are very tight on your budget....that is the fake alpine amps....but this is only when you are on a very tight budget and is this stuff is highly NOT recommended.....

[navin]

Clarifications: Wow this is a change. used to be that Sam used to clarify my posts.

The 6100 is a 4 ch amp and can drive 2 subs or 1 sub and 2 speakers (preferably use them to drive the front speakers).

Think of your Sub and Sub amp as a system. If you have a budget of 10K for both a Sony 502 mated to a JBL tube can be one option another option could be the Pio 6100 mated to a Pio 306C (and you get 2 more amps channels to pwer your front speakers). I'd take the tube, someting tells me you'll like the BOOM :-)

if you have a bigger budget let us know we are very happy with big budgets. Actually we at ICE prefer it when people dont have budgets. :-)

[sonic_boom]

Finally got the job done today!!! Got a Sony 2 ch XM-552ZR and xplod 1000W max sub. Been listening to it all day(head hurts!).Got the whole job done in less than 6K. I agree that the setup does not give perfect results (bass is muffled) but it's still miles ahead of the sound I was getting without the sub.

That apart , I still have a few doubts.

1) Do car amps give out any type of fumes during operation? Cos whenever I roll the windows all the way up there a stinging sensation in my eyes. My friends also noticed the same thing. My amp is installed vertically behind the rear seat on the wall of the sub enclosure.

2) What are the following features of my head unit-
a) out-sub and out-rear. What do I select?
b) LPF 75/125/OFF ??

3)What are the following features of my amp-
a)LPF(80Hz) On/Off
b)Input Level -0.3/0.5/1/2/4/6V. What shud I select?

4) I told the installer to combine both the amp output channels and use them to power the sub. How do I check if he has done it correctly by looking at the connections?

[WoodenKnight]

Originally Posted by sonic_boom

Do car amps give out any type of fumes during operation? Cos whenever I roll the windows all the way up there a stinging sensation in my eyes.

It's the glue of the sub enclosure box that's causing it.

Originally Posted by sonic_boom

2) What are the following features of my head unit-
a) out-sub and out-rear. What do I select?
b) LPF 75/125/OFF ??

LPF is low-pass filter, in other words, up to what frequency should be allowed to go through. From what I can tell, you're using the pre-amp output to feed the amp which is in turn connected to the sub. So the (a) would be out-sub and (b) would be what sounds good to your ears. Experiment a little bit.

Originally Posted by sonic_boom

3)What are the following features of my amp-
a)LPF(80Hz) On/Off
b)Input Level -0.3/0.5/1/2/4/6V. What shud I select?

LPF is the same thing for the amp. Up to what frequencies should be sent to the sub? Turning it on will make sure the sub gets the frequencies of 80Hz or lower. The sub cannot handle higher frequencies anyway so you should turn it on. But not if you're also using the LPF in the HU. Use one.

I don't know enough yet to comment about (b) but it seems like the gain settings... you have the attention of three most knowledgeable people here so they should be piping in any moment.

Originally Posted by sonic_boom

4) I told the installer to combine both the amp output channels and use them to power the sub. How do I check if he has done it correctly by looking at the connections?

That's called bridging the channels; two outputs get combined to one -- should be easy to see if that's been done.

[clipto333]

Originally Posted by sonic_boom

That apart , I still have a few doubts.

1) Do car amps give out any type of fumes during operation? Cos whenever I roll the windows all the way up there a stinging sensation in my eyes. My friends also noticed the same thing. My amp is installed vertically behind the rear seat on the wall of the sub enclosure.

well it depends. it can be the glue on the sub box or maybe new wires, it can be the amp. please get it checked as soon as possible by a good installer. safety comes topmost.

Originally Posted by sonic_boom

2) What are the following features of my head unit-
a) out-sub and out-rear. What do I select?
b) LPF 75/125/OFF ??

how many outputs are there? 2,4,6(1,2 or 3 pairs)

a) sub out is an output dedicated for subwoofer connection to the amplifier.

Rear out is to connect the rear channels to the amp. its like the rear speaker connection but line level. in some Hu there is also a front out. when you have three of these outputs and an amp having 6 ch input or 2 amps with atleast 6 ch input for eg one 2 channel amp and one 4 channel amp, you can fade between fr and rear speakers.

b) as pointed out by wooden knight, LPF aka low pass filter as the name suggests will cut off the frequecies above the selected LPF, for e.g. if you select 75 hertz the subwoofer will only play till 75 hz. Lpf is used for subwoofers as the subs usually play till 100 or 125 hz.

Originally Posted by sonic_boom

3)What are the following features of my amp-
a)LPF(80Hz) On/Off
b)Input Level -0.3/0.5/1/2/4/6V. What shud I select?

a) LPF on the amp is again the same thing as the HU's Lpf. you should only use 1 of them. if you are using HU's lpf you should turn off the amps lpf. if using amps lpf you should turn off HU lpf or if not possible then set it at the max level. in some Hu's its 125 hz.

b) input level is the gain control. it should be matched with the HU's line level outputs voltage. eg if your HU has 2volts preout then it should be matched according to this voltage. this is done by 3 methods( which i know) 1 is with oscilloscope if im not wrong. 2nd method is by a multimeter (it should be a true rms multimeter) 3rd is by using your ears. if you dont know how to set them, it is a good idea to get them set by a good installer. a gain is not a volume control so do not keep it at full levels. gain settings is quite a long subject. google it to find out more.

Originally Posted by sonic_boom

4) I told the installer to combine both the amp output channels and use them to power the sub. How do I check if he has done it correctly by looking at the connections?

4) in a 2 channel amp there are 4 speaker output terminals. it is usually like this. CH1 + AND - TERMINAL CHANNEL 2 + AND - TERMINAL. OR CH A OR B. These are in pairs.
if it is bridged, one spkr wire will be connected to ch 1 or ch a and the other will be connected to ch 2 or b. bridged outputs are usually marked on the amp itself.
i hope this clarifies. correct me if im wrong people.

Thanks,

Rishabh Sehgal

[navin]

Originally Posted by sonic_boom

1) Do car amps give out any type of fumes during operation?

2) What are the following features of my head unit-b) LPF 75/125/OFF ??

3)What are the following features of my amp-a)LPF(80Hz) On/Off
b)Input Level -0.3/0.5/1/2/4/6V. What shud I select?

4) I told the installer to combine both the amp output channels and use them to power the sub. How do I check if he has done it correctly by looking at the connections?

1. No fumes, atleast not by design. I would not only check the sub box but alos the car. It could be anything.

2. 75Hz. should do.

3. Leave the LPF oFF and input level at 2V.

4. The amp will come with instructions. You use only 2 of the 4 speaker terminals in bridged mode.

[clipto333]

Originally Posted by navin

1. No fumes, atleast not by design. I would not only check the sub box but alos the car. It could be anything.

2. 75Hz. should do.

3. Leave the LPF oFF and input level at 2V.

4. The amp will come with instructions. You use only 2 of the 4 speaker terminals in bridged mode.

hi,

my god, i gave such a long explanation. its as simple as you have written. lol



cheers
rishabh

[sonic_boom]

Thanks for the info guys!

Can you suggest me a good installer in Delhi(preferably South Delhi) who can look into the system and find the source of the fumes. I parked the car in the sun for a few hours yesterday and the inside of the car was like a gas chamber.
Since summers are fast approaching I wont be able to roll down the windows bcause of the AC.
SOS !!!

[gunbir]

Originally Posted by sonic_boom

Thanks for the info guys!

Can you suggest me a good installer in Delhi(preferably South Delhi) who can look into the system and find the source of the fumes. I parked the car in the sun for a few hours yesterday and the inside of the car was like a gas chamber.
Since summers are fast approaching I wont be able to roll down the windows bcause of the AC.
SOS !!!

Sonic, its most likely the adhesive used in your box (as someone rightly pointed out earlier) to stick the carpet. Most installers (cough cough: hacks) in Delhi use cheap unbranded adhesive that uses toxic chemicals and has very harmful fumes. It causes throat, eye irritation in the short term and can possibly cause more damage in the long run. Please remove your sub box from (assuming this is the only place they used the adhesive) the car for a day and see if the situation improves. If it does, then it is the adhesive. Get your box carpeting re-done.

Others, always ensure your installer uses quality adhesive like Fevibond from Pidilite industries.