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Old 1st October 2007, 11:51   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sanchits View Post
sub - jbl gto1204br
amp - jbl 75.4 ...remember my budget cannot exceed 40k.
the amp will run you about 12K the sub about 9K so there goes half your budget.
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Old 5th November 2007, 14:43   #32 (permalink)
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Default How will you connect the HU to the amp??

Hi, i went through your thread.. but as far as i know the stock civic HU unit does not come with RCA outputs. How will you connect the amp to the head unit. If you use the line level input provided on the amp.. i have heard there will be humming from the amp and also the quality will not be good.
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Old 7th January 2008, 02:55   #33 (permalink)
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hi, my setup is still half done, currently i have a ID12"v.3 sub powered by kenwood 9103d mono amp with audison 4 gauge power wiring. as you all know i have already got the DLS speakers and i am getting the audison LRx4.5 amp by this week. the ICE setup would be complete, but the headlights/tailights dimming problem has still not been solved, after the complete setup, i think it would dim even further. as most of you have suggested that capacitor would not help much. i dont know about changing the BIG 3 wires as my civic is brand new. i am not much concerned about dimming, as it does not bother me. but won't it reduce the battery life and might even spoil the electrical systems of the car. there has to be some way to solve this problem. i am concerned that it would hamper the life of the battery.

Last edited by sanchits : 7th January 2008 at 03:02.
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Old 7th January 2008, 09:56   #34 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sanchits View Post
hi, my setup is still half done, currently i have a ID12"v.3 sub powered by kenwood 9103d mono amp with audison 4 gauge power wiring. as you all know i have already got the DLS speakers and i am getting the audison LRx4.5 amp by this week. the ICE setup would be complete, but the headlights/tailights dimming problem has still not been solved, after the complete setup, i think it would dim even further. as most of you have suggested that capacitor would not help much. i dont know about changing the BIG 3 wires as my civic is brand new. i am not much concerned about dimming, as it does not bother me. but won't it reduce the battery life and might even spoil the electrical systems of the car. there has to be some way to solve this problem. i am concerned that it would hamper the life of the battery.
@sanchits, you need not worry about the battery or its life. The problem that you are facing has no effect on the battery, nor the other electrical systems.

What is happening is that when the current drawn by your ICE is increasing beyond a point that the alternator regulator can regulate the voltage, the overall system voltage is dropping - and that is reflecting on your head/tail lights dimming. You are seeing the difference between operating at 13.x volts versus 12.x volts.

Quite simply, during music peaks the line voltage is dropping to battery voltage (or slightly lesser). During these peaks, your battery will not charge, but so what - it will charge during non-peak times. The culprit is the alternator / regulator, which is not designed for your level of transients (peak load occurring for short durations), not the standard harness (your amp would not be connected to the standard harness).

You just have to figure out a way of replacing the alternator / regulator without voiding the warranty.
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Old 7th January 2008, 11:43   #35 (permalink)
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Dimming is there in every car. It depends how hard you are playing your setup. Maybe your amp gains are turned up, Ground is not full tight, Power cable might be loose some place. There are lots place where there can be problem.

Also how much dimming is there it is very high or a little that one also need to see.
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Old 7th January 2008, 12:51   #36 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by power_slave77 View Post
If you use the line level input provided on the amp.. i have heard there will be humming from the amp and also the quality will not be good.
the quality may not be as good as it would have been via pre outs but if properly done you should not have any "humming".

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Dimming is there in every car. It depends how hard you are playing your setup.
Guys, listen if LBM does not find the need for a cap why do all of you worry. LBM's system (from what I hear) draws in excess of 2000W rms (at peaks) from the battery, few systems draw more.
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Old 7th January 2008, 14:44   #37 (permalink)
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Guys, listen if LBM does not find the need for a cap why do all of you worry. LBM's system (from what I hear) draws in excess of 2000W rms (at peaks) from the battery, few systems draw more.

Thats why I dont recommend cap to anyone except if one wants to bling.
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Old 7th January 2008, 14:58   #38 (permalink)
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Thats why I dont recommend cap to anyone except if one wants to bling.
i learnt this from LBM too, just keep your car on when you want to flaunt it.
i always keep the engine running while playing my system.
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Old 7th January 2008, 15:15   #39 (permalink)
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i learnt this from LBM too, just keep your car on when you want to flaunt it.
i always keep the engine running while playing my system.
Ya I never ever play my ICE without engine running. Not even for 10 seconds.
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Old 13th January 2008, 04:31   #40 (permalink)
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so, the quest for my ICE setup is finally over and here goes, my complete ICE setup is as follows:
Wiring - Connection Audison (power+speaker)
Amp 1 - Kenwood 9103d mono amp
Sub - ID12" v.3 in sealed enclosure
Amp 2 - New Audison Lrx 4.5 (black)
Speakers:-
Front - DLS R6A 6.5" compos
Rear - DLS classic 426 6.5" coax

Amp1 and sub was installed long back...thanx to gunbir and driven for the install. would soon get the remaining stuff installed. thanx for all your tips and suggestions.

Last edited by sanchits : 13th January 2008 at 04:33.
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Old 13th January 2008, 07:28   #41 (permalink)
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congratulations on the new ICE setup! now can you please give us the prices?
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Old 13th January 2008, 11:23   #42 (permalink)
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so, the quest for my ICE setup is finally over
Over? Dont you want to swap the Kenwood mono with an LRx 1.1k or 1.400?
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