Amps, Speakers & Sub for RS

[surajs]

Originally Posted by rchimni

Pioneer 8950 - 16000 ( grey market ) I suspect this is on the higher side, the reason I chose this is because it has a bluetooth and ipod interface.

Are there other HU's which have both features ?
Suggestions from the guru's would be much appreciated..

Why not Alpine 9883 ?? With B&W i think..

[gunbir]

Originally Posted by rchimni

I still have to listen to diffent brands however Vineet ( pune motors) tells me the only option I have is between the JBL, Hertz and kicker components reason being the magnets of the othere are too big and will interfere with the power window winder mechanism is that true ??

If so is there a way around it ?? I would ideally like to retain the original grill.

Here is the stock speaker Vs a HERTZ midbass... note the difference in depth:



Here is the same HERTZ midbass installed in the stock ring.



The only thing is, you need to bend some door metal behind the midbass. It does NOT foul with the window mechanism and your stock grille is retained as it was.

[shrivz]

Originally Posted by rchimni

Pardon my ignorance.. but he mentioned Its the new GT series enclosed subwoofer .. Any input on the HU and the rest of the stuff>>

I think you must've mistaken the GTO1260BR as a GT5, the 1260 is the new 60th anniversary edition bass reflex enclosure.

I paid Rs. 7,500 for my GTO1260BR

[rchimni]

I finally completed my install on Friday at Poona Motors and to be honest I am a disappointed with the sound quality , the equipment is the same as what I mentioned below , the bass is not the tight kind of bass I expected , I did try the GTO1260BR first , later changed it to the GTO 1204 BR which sounded a little better but still not what i expected..

Damping was done for the front doors as suggested but not the tailgate..
Also in the photographs posted by Gunbir below is that damping material on the door panel or the regular OE cover ? ( between the door and the panel ) damping in my car was done after removing the cover you see in the picture below.

Any suggestions on how to proceed from here Navin / Sam ?

[navin]

Originally Posted by rchimni

I finally completed my install on Friday at Poona Motors and to be honest I am a disappointed with the sound quality...the bass is not the tight kind of bass I expected...GTO 1204 BR ..still not what i expected..

..Gunbir below is that damping material on the door panel or the regular OE cover ? ..[/IMG]

if you found that you are looking for tighter bass why not try other barnds of subs as well. I suspect ID might work but they are 3 times the cost of JBL.

what else are you looking for in the sound?

[rchimni]

Originally Posted by navin

if you found that you are looking for tighter bass why not try other barnds of subs as well. I suspect ID might work but they are 3 times the cost of JBL.

what else are you looking for in the sound?

Navin its the bass which is the main issue with me like I mentioned its not tight enough, also at lower volumes dont get enough of the mids and lows am not sure if I am making any sense ..

[Bass&Trouble]

The most I can think of is to try a few different placements for the sub. The Skoda is sometimes unkind to bass, in my experience.

[navin]

Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble

The most I can think of is to try a few different placements for the sub. The Skoda is sometimes unkind to bass, in my experience.

good idea. try it sideways not firing towards the rear as usually done but firing towards the left or right.

[rchimni]

Originally Posted by navin

if you found that you are looking for tighter bass why not try other barnds of subs as well. I suspect ID might work but they are 3 times the cost of JBL.

what else are you looking for in the sound?

Navin - I happened to hear the sub you mentioned in a civic and the bass was exactly the kind I am looking for. I have family travelling from the US who can carry an ID sub back for me , would appreciate it if you could tell me which model I should be looking at ?

Image Dynamics IDQ12D2 V.2 12" IDQ Dual 2 Ohm Subwoofer
[IDQ12D2V.2]

or the

Image Dynamics IDQ12D4 V.2 12" IDQ Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer
IDQ12D4V.2

Appreciate the advise..

[hydrashok]

@rchmini, D2V2 or D4V2 would depend on:

a) The amp you're going to use with the sub (stable to 1 ohm?).
b) The number of subs you are going to use with the amp (for now or later, if you want to keep using the same amp).
c) How good your current power wiring is (or how much you can spend on wiring -- can you wire the amp at 2AWG or 0AWG, so it can do 1 ohm?).

D2V2:
If the amp you use is stable upto 1 ohm, you can run a single D2V2 at 1 ohm or 4 ohms.

You can run two D2V2s at 2 ohms or even down at 1/2 ohm (if the amp can do that).

There are more combis, but I guess you won't use more than 2 subs eh?

D4V2:
You can run a single D4V2 at 2 ohms (or 8 ohms -- ha!)

You can run two D4V2s at 4 ohms or even down at 1 ohm.

As above, there are more combis, if you want to use more than 2 subs.

[Overall, you would want to maximise the power you're going to feed the sub/s from the amp. If what I said is complicated, do mention what amp you're using/planning to use, and the number of subs you want to use, and whether you're comfortable with spending 8K or so for power wiring. We'll give you a firm recommendation ]

[hydrashok]

Earlier post continued in a little more detail, from personal experience (I read my post again and it looked a bit too complicated to me heh, heh).

I use a single IDQ D2V2 in my car, with an Audison LRx1.4. I asked myself the same question you asked. "D2V2 or D4V2?"

The amp can do 350w RMS at 4 ohms, 650w RMS at 2 ohms and 900 RMS at 1 ohm. Now my car is already wired with 4 AWG wires, so my pocket will not let me upgrade to 2 AWG or *faints* 0 AWG.

That means right now, I'm stuck to using the amp at 2 ohm maxxxxx (and that too with kid gloves, considering my fussy nature). But I will be keeping this amp till I die, so even if I upgrade the car, I'd using the same amp for my sub/s). When I upgrade the car, I can do *puffs chest* 2 AWG or even 0 AWG wiring. So I can do 1 ohm later if I want to.

Right now I only need one sub (one 12"). But later, if I get a sedan, I'll need two 12"s.

So, I should choose my subs in such a way that I can use the same amp to run one sub now, and two subs later. And when I run two subs later, I should be getting the max out of the amp (at 1 ohm too, 'cause I'm breaking my bank to wire at 0 AWG).

Considering this, the choice of subs is easy. D2V2. I run the sub at 350w RMS now. Later, I'll get an identical D2V2, ad run both off the same amp at 1 ohm, and drive a total of 900w RMS into the two of them.

Now if I were stuck with using only 1 sub forever, I would have gone for the D4V2 (though it would have meant my having to wait for a while then). With the D4V2, I'd have fixed to use the amp at 2 ohms, so that I would feed 650w RMS to the sub.

This is not a complete exposition of the umm... decision making process, but I hope you get the general drift

[montyguru]

Originally Posted by rchimni

Pioneer 8950 - 16000 ( grey market ) I suspect this is on the higher side, the reason I chose this is because it has a bluetooth and ipod interface.

Are there other HU's which have both features ?
Suggestions from the guru's would be much appreciated..

what damping are you getting at 1000 rupees for both doors?

at 16000, you could consider alpine 9885. alpine however needs separate dabbas to enable bluetooth and ipod. mind you, there is a lot of difference in an iPod interface, and a USB slot, or an iPod cable adapter going into USB slot. the iPod interface is a dedicated hi-speed iPod processor where you can use the HU to shift thru folders, songs etc. it is not only very fast but also enables ID3 tags and complete text displays. the cable adapter on the other hand just connects it to the HU like a hard disk, and you can achieve this in any simple cassette HU as well which has a pin slot behind to accept CD changer. alpines are also more user friendly with iPods.

i don't think it's worthwhile getting subs all the way from US. weight, size, likelihood of damage, trouble with customs are all against it. if you want to save some money, then better get amp, wires, dynamat extreme, etc from US.. anything that's small, expensive, light weight and easy to carry. and buy the sub from gunman.

Originally Posted by hydrashok

This is not a complete exposition of the umm... decision making process, but I hope you get the general drift

too good!!

[rocksterraghu]

Originally Posted by rchimni

Here are the prices he gave me , all items are with bill and warranty could the "gurus" validate for me ?

Amp - JBL 75.4 - 11500
Comp- GTO 607C - 6000 ( For the front )
coax- GTO 507 - 2750 ( Rear)
Monstor cable - 3400 ( 3x1150)
power cable and fuse link - 1000
Damping - 1000 ( Front doors only )
Subwoofer GT5 series - 7500
Installation - 1000

Pioneer 8950 - 16000 ( grey market ) I suspect this is on the higher side, the reason I chose this is because it has a bluetooth and ipod interface.

Are there other HU's which have both features ?
Suggestions from the guru's would be much appreciated..

I think you've got a few model numbers wrong there.

1. AFAIK, there is no 8950 - It must be the 7950 (7950BT), which is available for about 9k in grey.

2. GTO507s are not co-axials. They are components, but my guess is you meant GTO937s (which are not available at that price with B&W).

Apart from that, if you are buying only a 4-channel amplifier, why do you need 3 RCA cables?

[low_bass_makker]

Originally Posted by hydrashok

at 1 ohm too, 'cause I'm breaking my bank to wire at 0 AWG

Why hydra ? it is breaking the wire at 0 awg.

[PAVAN KADAM]

Skoda!

You can add a set of MB QUART Components at REAR

2 Speakers JBL/MBQUART/KICKER at front.

SONY 4 Channel Amp to drive all the above.

One Monoblock and a 12 inch Sub.

Overall SUPERB EFFECT.

Believe me man, nothing apart from these will work better.