Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!

[greenhorn]

after hearing redfire's setup, suddenly feel the need for a sub which can resolve the lows correctly ( ie the bass guitar notes should sound different ) and not like the uniform boom which i hear from my rear coax's, and should be audible at low volumes.

I've got no plans to put in amplification for the speakers - the Alpine HU is more than enough. I usually play it at 12, and max i go is upto 18.

Bottom line , i need an amp and a sub. to complement my HU + speakers

redfire's Blau GT sealed box sub sounded nice, and I'm thinking of a ~ 200W bridged 2 ch amp

any suggestions ?
My ICE :
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/ask-gu...aller-tvm.html (Suggestions for a Good ICE Installer In TVM)

[navin]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

Bottom line , i need an amp and a sub. to complement my HU + speakers

think 10-12K for a good monoblock and 5-7K for a good 12" in a sealed box.

[greenhorn]

navin ji , i forgot to add the most important part, the budget!
I had about 15K in mind for the whole setup , 10k for the sub + amp, the rest 5k for damping & cables

I was more than satisfied with redfire's amp and sub, just wanted to know if there are better options at that price point

[redfire]

Hi,
I had given my car for a free checkup and they had a battery chekup also in that. Afer that, while going home, my left component woofer started sounding clipping/noise (no music, but loud noise) occassionaly. I immedeiately switched of ICE, parked car and then again switched on. Gradually increased volume hearing everything fine for 5 minutes (a full song). Slowly moved and increased speed gradually. And this came again whenever car shakes or run over bad roads. Reached home, opened bonnet and found the wire to fuse was loose little bit (it was not disconnected but loose little bit, somebody accidently pulled it I assume). Fixed it, drove back to office and no noise. My doubt is, does a loose power connection cause clipping / loud noise and also to only one channel? Whenever the left speaker was making noise, right one was playing fine.

[Magma]

hello all
i am currently running front components and rear 6*9's off a kenwood KAC 8401 60*4rms amp.
i am using 10mmsq finolex with a 50amp bottle fuse holder and fuse

i wish to add another 2channel 100rms*2 and bridge it ( 300rms as per manual in bridged mode) to run a 12inch sealed sub

Please advice about the change in wiring needed
Can/Should I

option1
Add a another independant 10mm sq finolex cable with an independant fuse for the new amp
Option2
should i get new 16mm sq finolex cable and 80amp fuse(dont know if bottle fuse holders accomodate 16mmsq or have 80amp fuses), replace my old 10mm sq cable.
And then use a distribution box in the boot

Cost wise im guessing both options should cost more or less the same ( considering i can use the 10mmsq cable after distribution.However option 2 seems more work

What are the merits and demerits of each option.
Would option 1 be a bad choice or it would not make a difference which option i choose?

looking forward to your help
Ali

[greenhorn]

redfire , sounds like a short in the wiring/ problem with the amp's left channel, why else would just one channel clip. If the noise has stopped , then no issues, but if it continues, try swapping amp channels to isolate the prob to the speaker/amp

[adityamunshi]

Magma , which amp did u get ?

Originally Posted by Magma

hello all
i am currently running front components and rear 6*9's off a kenwood KAC 8401 60*4rms amp.
i am using 10mmsq finolex with a 50amp bottle fuse holder and fuse

i wish to add another 2channel 100rms*2 and bridge it ( 300rms as per manual in bridged mode) to run a 12inch sealed sub

Please advice about the change in wiring needed
Can/Should I

option1
Add a another independant 10mm sq finolex cable with an independant fuse for the new amp
Option2
should i get new 16mm sq finolex cable and 80amp fuse(dont know if bottle fuse holders accomodate 16mmsq or have 80amp fuses), replace my old 10mm sq cable.
And then use a distribution box in the boot

Cost wise im guessing both options should cost more or less the same ( considering i can use the 10mmsq cable after distribution.However option 2 seems more work

What are the merits and demerits of each option.
Would option 1 be a bad choice or it would not make a difference which option i choose?

looking forward to your help
Ali

[CaAT]

Hi Gurus,

After reading the imspiring DIY posts about Power and RCA cable, I am planning to change them too, beginning with the former.

My existing set up :

Car : Spark
HU : Blau London MP37
Amp : Blau GT4 MKII Spl
Front Speakers : JBL GTO 427
Rears : JBL GTO 937
No sub woofer

Both speakers are driven by amps.

Now I am changing the power cable to 25mm sq (75 Amps capacity). I wanted to know if the existing bottle type fuse holder can take this 25 sq mm cable.

If not, any particular brand for fuse and fuse holders? Are they available 'off the shelf' in car accessories stores?

Thanks in advance.

[ragzv]

Guys,

Just while browsing came across a this Pioneer Head Unit (DEH-P5000UB) through the rear channels of which you can play a two small 4-ohm passive subs or a dual voice coil sub with 4-ohm voice coils directly from the head unit. If you prefer to use a single 2-ohm sub, you can connect the woofer to one set of speaker leads, leaving the other set of rear leads disconnected. Here's the link...

Pioneer DEH-P5000UB CD receiver at Crutchfield.com

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by ragzv

... two small 4-ohm passive subs or a dual voice coil sub with 4-ohm voice coils directly from the head unit. ...

Nice, very practical stuff for low-end systems. Maybe we could check whether the same exists in the 5050 (the rough equivalent) in India. But how small is a 'small passive sub'? With 70W (35W if 4ohms) on call, this is unlikely to produce any significant amount of bass unless mounted on, in or near the dash, maybe below the front seats.

[greenhorn]

The maximum output provided when a 2-ohm load is connected to one set of leads is 70 watts.

or ~ 35W for 4 ohms. That's a very small subwoofer I think the amp is just a regular HU amp, with the only difference being that an LPF will be applied to the rear speaker output...

[Technocrat]

This is nothing new even my Pio 5650(& other Pioneer models) does that. It basically bridges the rear channel to power a small sub.

[navin]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

With 70W (35W if 4ohms) on call, this is unlikely to produce any significant amount of bass unless mounted on, in or near the dash, maybe below the front seats.

DA, it's not even 35W @ 4ohms. If one measures this unit from 20-200Hz (since we are talkig about driving a sub) at <0.1% THD my guess is the output will be closer to 20W rms @ 4ohms. I assume they are refering to 5-6" woofers. Certainly not subwoofers.

There was a Panasonic unit (forget model number) with a Class D amp that performed better.

[mohang_j]

Originally Posted by navin

DA, it's not even 35W @ 4ohms. If one measures this unit from 20-200Hz (since we are talkig about driving a sub) at <0.1% THD my guess is the output will be closer to 20W rms @ 4ohms. I assume they are refering to 5-6" woofers. Certainly not subwoofers.

There was a Panasonic unit (forget model number) with a Class D amp that performed better.

Even my deh3050ub has same feature its 22wrms@4ohms.Output is just sufficient to move the cone, hardly any bass.

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by CaAT

If not, any particular brand for fuse and fuse holders? Are they available 'off the shelf' in car accessories stores?

Poona Motors keeps a wide range of such accessories like fuses, fuse holders, ring terminals etc.