Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!

[idea]

In need of simple adivice from gurus for a basic ice for my WagonR CNG. (Can accomodate 6 inch speakers in front and back door)

Reliance autozone has suggested following

Pioneer MVH1490UB - With USB Only - 4200 (Available online 3200 with warrenty and all)
Front: Sony XS-GT16212S Component - 3999/-
Back: Pioneer TSG624 - Coaxial - 1560/-
MDF ring for front:300/-
Coupler: 100/-

RA is fine if i source HU from outside, they will still do free install. I am keen to do it at RA as dont want to buy fakes from outside.

So my Queries are

1. Is this system worth for 10K or i can have some better configuration for same cost?
2. I read, component in front and back should be avoided, as it doesnt add much to Sound effect. What if i go for ALL components (Front Back) as second pair of component is just 2800/-(against 3999) under some scheme. Is it worth?
3. RA is not suggesting any sort of dampening. If feel plastic quality for WagonR is too low and thin. it will vibrate.
4. Please also suggest if speakers selected have good review.

Please do suggest.

[RSR]

Hi friends!

I want to change the HU on dad's i10. The car currently has a Sony CDX-GT282S (link: http://www.sony.co.in/product/cdx-gt...dx-gt282s__cin) CD/MP3 player and four basic Sony speakers that were fitted by the dealer as part of the purchase/exchange deal when we bought the car over 3 years ago.

No one in the family is an audiophile and I'm very satisfied with the car's current set-up as it perfectly serves the requirements of listening to FM radio and Western classical instrumental music. However, dad has the bad habit of answering calls on the phone while driving and I'm worried about the safety aspect. My repeated pleas to stop by the side of the road and answer the call (as I do) has only reduced his time on the phone (to say I'll call you back in ten minutes) and not stopped this habit of his.

As he hates using earphones, I want to change the HU so that he can answer calls using Bluetooth. I searched the Indian websites of HU manufacturers and have narrowed in on the Sony DSX-A50BT (link: http://www.sony.co.in/product/dsx-a50bt) as we don't have much use for a CD player. Since it is also a Sony, I guess it would be a simple HU swap that even I (an ICE newbie) can perform as a DIY. How good is this unit for answering calls? Are there any known compatibility issues with Nokia and Android phones? Are there better HUs from other brands in this price range that can be swapped with the existing one? If anyone has any experience with these units, please share.

My budget is limited to Rs. 8k-9k. I plan to fit the existing HU on my old beater (Indica Xeta) which has no ICE at all. So I also need to get basic speakers for the Indica within this budget. I look forward to any advice from ICE gurus/fellow BHPians

Thanks in advance!

Image of the DSX-A50BT from Sony's India website for reference:

[scopriobharath]

Originally Posted by idea

Pioneer MVH1490UB - With USB Only - 4200 (Available online 3200 with warrenty and all)
Front: Sony XS-GT16212S Component - 3999/-
Back: Pioneer TSG624 - Coaxial - 1560/-
MDF ring for front:300/-
Coupler: 100/-

RA is fine if i source HU from outside, they will still do free install. I am keen to do it at RA as dont want to buy fakes from outside.

So my Queries are

1. Is this system worth for 10K or i can have some better configuration for same cost?
2. I read, component in front and back should be avoided, as it doesnt add much to Sound effect. What if i go for ALL components (Front Back) as second pair of component is just 2800/-(against 3999) under some scheme. Is it worth?
3. RA is not suggesting any sort of dampening. If feel plastic quality for WagonR is too low and thin. it will vibrate.
4. Please also suggest if speakers selected have good review.

Please do suggest.

You will get the pioneer set at 3500+ will B&W outside, but still if you wish NOT to hunt outside, go ahead and buy it from RA.
Sony is decent for 4K but if you can step up the budget, i recommend JBL GT6-S266C.

1. Yes its worth 10K
2. Not Really, I have some friends who have components in rear and front & its sounds good.
3. Actually Compos at the front and co-axials at the rear offer a good stage and is sufficient for day to day music.
4. Damping definetly adds clarity to sound, be it a Nano or a Rolls-Royce. I can challenge RA anywhere. In Fact adding Damping sheets will reduce vibration by 70% nearly but will also set you back by 5000/-

As suggested time and again - Please "audition" the speakers yourself before choosing a set. . The comments above as per "my" ears.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by idea

... 3. RA is not suggesting any sort of dampening. If feel plastic quality for WagonR is too low and thin. it will vibrate. ...

Originally Posted by scopriobharath

... 4. Damping definetly adds clarity to sound, be it a Nano or a Rolls-Royce. I can challenge RA anywhere. In Fact adding Damping sheets will reduce vibration by 70% nearly but will also set you back by 5000/- ...

Very true! Can cost less, though, if the installer uses a bit of cotton waste in strategic places.
1. Must damp the door pads if you install speakers in the door. Plus outer metal surface of door (skip the inner metal which has gaping holes)
2. Make sure all cables and wires in the door are stayed down properly with hot-melt glue or good duct tape (clean the metal below before sticking). This will prevent rattles from developing
3. Stick double sided tape behind the rear number plate
4. Tightly stuff cotton waste in the rear doors and hatch cavity, especially between the outer and inner metal surfaces

Originally Posted by scopriobharath

... As suggested time and again - Please "audition" the speakers yourself before choosing a set. ...

Absolutely correct.

[cyclops]

Originally Posted by cyclops

Hello Gurus, need your advise.

Currently I am in the US and found a good deal on the following Polk sub:

Polk Audio DXi 104 DVC DXi Series 10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com

How is this sub? So far I have found really good reviews confirming its more towards quality than quantity of bass. Please comment.

I have a JBL GT5-A604 (spec follows) down home in India and plan to use this sub with it.

JBL GT5-A604 (GT5A604) 640W Max 4-Channel GT Car Amplifier

After I placed the order I realized that this sub is a DVC and might not be compatible with my amp. I am novice when it comes to subs, this is my first one.

Please advise if my amp and sub would be running safe if I hook this up, my preference is more towards SQ than SPL - if not I can probably return it back here.

Originally Posted by navin

The GT5-604 can drive 4 ohms loads in bridged mode. Since your sub has 2 4ohm voice coils you can use all 4 channels of the 604 to drive the sub. Set both front and rear crossovers to LP arond 100hz and connect one voice coil to the front bridged channel and the second voice coil to the rear bridged channel.

Hmm.. But I wish to use the 2 channels to drive front speakers and bridge the other two to drive the sub. Is this configuration possible with this sub+amp combination?

[navin]

Originally Posted by cyclops

Hmm.. But I wish to use the 2 channels to drive front speakers and bridge the other two to drive the sub. Is this configuration possible with this sub+amp combination?

The 604 cannot drive a 2 ohm load so you cant parallel both 4 ohm voice coils of the subwoofer. You can however put the voice coils in series to make 8 ohms but that would not be the most efficient use of the amplifier.

[DerAlte]

Short one coil, and drive the other with the bridged amp. If you have not bought the sub already, buy a single voice coil (SVC) 4 ohms sub.

[cyclops]

Originally Posted by navin

The 604 cannot drive a 2 ohm load so you cant parallel both 4 ohm voice coils of the subwoofer. You can however put the voice coils in series to make 8 ohms but that would not be the most efficient use of the amplifier.

So its better to avoid this combination.

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Short one coil, and drive the other with the bridged amp. If you have not bought the sub already, buy a single voice coil (SVC) 4 ohms sub.

Unfortunately I have bought this sub already, could not resist the urge to buy it at $30. But I can return it, benefit of being in uncle sam's land!

[navin]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Short one coil, and drive the other with the bridged amp. If you have not bought the sub already, buy a single voice coil (SVC) 4 ohms sub.

Good idea. However Qes and hence Qts will drop a bit. Not a lot about 10% (depending on the actual Qes and Qms numbers).

Qes is the electrical Q of the woofer, Qms is the mechanical Q of the woofer. The total equivalent Q is (Qms+Qes)/(QmsxQes).

A simple model of a typical dynamic loudspeaker is explained here
http://www.kth.se/polopoly_fs/1.1456...nt/OHP1eng.pdf

[teknicsand]

I replaced the stock rear speakers on my new Gen i20 with JBL GT6-366. But they sound very weak. There is absolutely no punch. It sounds very flat although my impression was JBL speakers are pretty good. Anything I should be looking for? The front stock Kenwood speakers sound much better.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Cheers,
Sandeep

[cyclops]

Originally Posted by navin

Good idea. However Qes and hence Qts will drop a bit. Not a lot about 10% (depending on the actual Qes and Qms numbers).

Qes is the electrical Q of the woofer, Qms is the mechanical Q of the woofer. The total equivalent Q is (Qms+Qes)/(QmsxQes).

A simple model of a typical dynamic loudspeaker is explained here
http://www.kth.se/polopoly_fs/1.145650!/Menu/general/column-content/attachment/OHP1eng.pdf

Okay, so this one is going back. Was really happy to score a deal on this one for $30.

Originally Posted by teknicsand

I replaced the stock rear speakers on my new Gen i20 with JBL GT6-366. But they sound very weak. There is absolutely no punch. It sounds very flat although my impression was JBL speakers are pretty good. Anything I should be looking for? The front stock Kenwood speakers sound much better.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Cheers,
Sandeep

Well I am no expert, but did you check the polarity of the speakers? The wiring might be messed up.

[navin]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Short one coil, and drive the other with the bridged amp. If you have not bought the sub already, buy a single voice coil (SVC) 4 ohms sub.

Originally Posted by cyclops

Okay, so this one is going back. Was really happy to score a deal on this one for $30..

Cyclops, usually only mono lock amps can drive a 2 ohm load. Few bridged amps can - most that can are expensive.

You can drive only one coil of the woofer as DA suggested but...there will be a slight change in the speaker's technical specification (you can even leave the other coil open instead of shorting it). If you are using the woofer in a sealed box this change is manageable. Still if you can return the woofer and get one that is more suitable to your amp to ahead. Talk to crutchfield's advisors. Many of them are very very knowledgeable and they will surely help.

[idea]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Very true! Can cost less, though, if the installer uses a bit of cotton waste in strategic places.
1. Must damp the door pads if you install speakers in the door. Plus outer metal surface of door (skip the inner metal which has gaping holes)
2. Make sure all cables and wires in the door are stayed down properly with hot-melt glue or good duct tape (clean the metal below before sticking). This will prevent rattles from developing
3. Stick double sided tape behind the rear number plate
4. Tightly stuff cotton waste in the rear doors and hatch cavity, especially between the outer and inner metal surfaces

Absolutely correct.

Originally Posted by scopriobharath

You will get the pioneer set at 3500+ will B&W outside, but still if you wish NOT to hunt outside, go ahead and buy it from RA.
Sony is decent for 4K but if you can step up the budget, i recommend JBL GT6-S266C.

1. Yes its worth 10K
2. Not Really, I have some friends who have components in rear and front & its sounds good.
3. Actually Compos at the front and co-axials at the rear offer a good stage and is sufficient for day to day music.
4. Damping definetly adds clarity to sound, be it a Nano or a Rolls-Royce. I can challenge RA anywhere. In Fact adding Damping sheets will reduce vibration by 70% nearly but will also set you back by 5000/-

As suggested time and again - Please "audition" the speakers yourself before choosing a set. . The comments above as per "my" ears.

Thanks for advice.

Already received head unit ordered online Buy Online in India-Buy Canon Lens,Car Speakers,Fastrack Watches at Best price for 3250 with warrenty. It was well packed and is a june 12 import. Serial on box and unit is matching as on bill. MRP is 4490/-

Somehow warrenty card is not stamped but bill is there. So it should be a problem i guess.

Planning to buy speakers and installation from RA tomorrow.

[reddream]

I tried a few mid range speakers (like Infinity, Jbl) in a few cars and was happy.

In my Fiesta, with stock speakers and stock Kenwood it sounded horrible at first listen, because there was no bass and no high frequency. I just wanted to change it to the infinity which I had in my other car and add a sub. But work had other plans and I was forced to listen to this system for a week.

That is when I feel in love with the vocals, it was very easy, smooth and forward. I liked it a lot. So, the weekend came, I added a sub and a JBL 4 channel amp. I also changed the stock Kenwood to another Kenwood (till that time I had only Pioneer) with USB, so that I dont change the sound signature.

I was happy for few years, then I felt the high were not to high, and a measure of frequency sweep helped (posted those graphs earlier). I added a Pioneer tweeter from a component set and was ok with the sound.

The problem happened when I got home a Wharfdale Diamond 9.1 Book shelf. I paired it with a 1970s Akai 2 channel amp pumping 100 RMS/CH and what I heard was just what I had dreamed off. The soundstage was very wide, vocals were very warm and the highs when played reached really high. The best part was the highs played only 10-20% of the track, meaning played only at times and was generally warm. But when played like a guitar pluck was just too high.

Now, the problem started with my car speakers. I wanted the silky vocal as the Wharfdale (which I kind of get in my stock speakers), but want the high extension in my car.

Auditioned DLS components in a swift yesterday, I liked the Highs, was not very bright but went really up when needed, but the vocals were not forward.

What do I do ? Please help.

[nitrous]

Originally Posted by reddream

Auditioned DLS components in a swift yesterday, I liked the Highs, was not very bright but went really up when needed, but the vocals were not forward.

DLS has a very laid back sound, in my opinion. You should try the JBL GTi perhaps or the Boston SPZ or Pro series.
I don't know what you mean by forward. Sound stage perhaps, in which case I think you need an HU with time alignment and some experimenting with the TA settings.