Go Back   Team-BHP > Under the Hood > In-Car Entertainment


Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 9th May 2006, 15:56   #1
BHPian
 
kURETI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 104
Thanked: 0 Times
Default Tuning your amps

The simplest and easiest way to get your amps tuned is to follow these simple instructions. Grab your digital multimeter and a calculator.

output = square root (watts * ohms)

First, take your amp's wattage at load. For example, let's say your amp does 300 watts rms at 4 ohm. That would be 1200. Take the square root of that and you'll get 34.64101615137755, so let's say 34.64. Take your multimeter and set it to AC volts. Disconnect your speakers from the amplifier. Grab this file here - #800080]http://www.realmofexcursion.com/audio/testtones/20Hz_to_120Hz.mp3 - and burn it to a cd. Turn your eq's off, turn your volume to 3/4 of the way up, hook up your multimeter to the + and - of the speaker outputs and play the sine wave. Your peak voltage should hit at the beginning of the cd - adjust your gain till it reads the voltage you figured out earlier, then leave it. Hook your speakers back up, and your gain is set. Don't turn your volume up above this volume or else you'll clip.

Last edited by Rudra Sen : 9th May 2006 at 16:13.
kURETI is offline  
Old 9th May 2006, 16:11   #2
BHPian
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Delhi
Posts: 931
Thanked: 2 Times
Default

Venu,

I would suggest the 50Hz tone for the Subwoofer amp and 1 KHz tone for the speaker amp. With the sweeps you don't get accurate results.
Autophile is offline  
Old 9th May 2006, 16:23   #3
Senior - BHPian
 
jkdas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Thiruvananthapu
Posts: 9,683
Thanked: 1,437 Times
Default

Ah good. NOw I have to find a DVM. Thanks Venu

Last edited by jkdas : 9th May 2006 at 16:38.
jkdas is offline  
Old 9th May 2006, 16:47   #4
BHPian
 
kURETI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 104
Thanked: 0 Times
Default

.................................................. ........................
Quote:
Originally Posted by Autophile
Venu,

I would suggest the 50Hz tone for the Subwoofer amp and 1 KHz tone for the speaker amp. With the sweeps you don't get accurate results.
kURETI is offline  
Old 9th May 2006, 17:08   #5
BHPian
 
rsjaurr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Batala
Posts: 775
Thanked: 27 Times
Default

Thanx kURETI ...........it was good effort.

This has been discussed many times.Infact Gunbir wrote about two softwares to produce sound at desired frequencies for requitred period.

And guys when i met JB & Gunbir,JB did it without all this.He used his both ears and the thing in between.When i asked him why he dint use my cd[which i made using those softwares],i just got smiles from both of them and i understood everything and these guys dont need any assistance when its about music and its settings.I have marked those gains with permanent marker.

On lighter note i damaged my multimeter while doing same settings.Luckily i could exchange it with new one as seller was known to me.
rsjaurr is offline  
Old 9th May 2006, 17:18   #6
BHPian
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Delhi
Posts: 931
Thanked: 2 Times
Default

RSJ,

Our ears are the best measuring / testing equipment we have got. Nothing can surpass them. God has tuned each one's according to their liking and disliking so you get spot on results by using them.
Autophile is offline  
Old 9th May 2006, 17:27   #7
Senior - BHPian
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Faridabad
Posts: 6,814
Thanked: 295 Times
Default

For those people who dont have good ears.......

http://www.bcae1.com/gaincon2.htm

It well illustratted and easy to understand.
low_bass_makker is offline  
Old 9th May 2006, 17:27   #8
BHPian
 
kURETI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 104
Thanked: 0 Times
Default

Just taught it was an usefull info. wanted to share with every one here



As many of you know, upgrading the "Big 3" wires in your engine compartment can lower the overall resistance of your entire electrical system. The effects of the lower resistance are typically:

1) Reduced dimming and smaller voltage drops
2) More stable voltage and better current flow
3) Less strain on your vehicle's charging system

So for those of you looking for a cheap and easy way to upgrade your system and help out your electrical system without adding a high output alternator or an aftermarket battery, this is the modification for you. If you have heavy dimming or are getting large voltage drops during loud bass hits, but you don't have the money to spend on a high output alternator or a battery, upgrading your vehicle's "Big 3" will usually help to reduce and sometimes even eliminate the problems. So without further ado, the "Big 3" wires are:

1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine

Now, I suppose it would help if I explained what each of these wires does, and to do that I would like to paraphrase an explanation by IMTfox from a while ago: Think of your vehicle's charging system as two different circuits, one consisting of your amplifier and your battery, and the other consisting of your alternator and your battery. The current in your electrical system flows from your positive battery terminal to your amp, from your amp's ground to the chassis, and then from the chassis back to the negative battery terminal. But how does it get to the positive terminal in the first place? That's where the alternator comes in. Current in the second circuit flows from your alternator's positive post to the battery's positive terminal, then from the battery's negative terminal to the chassis, and from the chassis back to the block, which happens to be the grounding point for your alternator.

So, from your battery, you have the power wire going to the power terminal on your amplifier and then your amplifier is grounded to the chassis of the vehicle. From here the current needs a way to get back to the negative battery terminal, and that way is through the first of the "Big 3," the battery negative to chassis wire. Upgrading this wire will "upgrade" the circuit between your battery and your amp by giving the current a larger path to flow through to get back to the battery.

Now, think of your alternator as the battery and your battery as the amp. From the positive post on your alternator, you have the second of the "Big 3," the alternator to battery positive wire supplying "power" to your battery. From there the battery, just like your amp, is grounded to the chassis through the wire mentioned in the previous paragraph. Again, the current needs a way to get from the chassis back to the alternator's "negative terminal" and that way is through the last of the "Big 3," the chassis to engine wire. Since your alternator is most likely mounted to your engine block using a metal or conductive mounting bracket, you can simply add your new wire from the chassis to one of the mounting posts for the alternator. Upgrading these two wires will "upgrade" the circuit between your alternator and your battery, again giving the current a larger path to flow through.

----------------------------------------------

Now that you understand exactly what the "Big 3" do, it's time to upgrade them to a larger gauge wire. You can use regular power wire from installing your car audio equipment, ring terminals, and crimping equipment just the same as you would for any other install. Let's start with the first of the "Big 3," the battery negative to chassis wire:

1) Disconnect your battery's negative terminal and get the stock wiring out of the way. You might have to cut it and crimp a new ring terminal onto it. I found it helpful to use aftermarket battery terminals with multiple ports on them also.

2) Scrape away the paint and drill the hole for your connection of the larger wire, or connect it to the stock grounding point. Either way you do it, make sure it is bare chassis metal, not covered by paint, and that the connection is as tight and secure as possible:


3) Secure the new wire to the chassis and reconnect the vehicle's stock chassis ground, but DON'T reconnect the vehicle's negative battery terminal yet! You may find it helpful to cover the negative battery terminal with a cloth or other non-conductive material and just lay the terminal on it until you're ready to reconnect it later.




Moving on to the next of the "Big 3," let's upgrade the alternator to battery positive wire:

4) Locate the vehicle's alternator and look for a terminal post connected to it. The post shouldn't be hard to find. It should have only one wire connected to it, and it should lead to the positive terminal on the battery, while passing through the starter first. (in some cars..the fuse box)


5) Disconnect the stock alternator to battery positive wire from the positive post and connect it to the post again with the new wire added.

6) Run the wire either through your fuse box if applicable or through a fuse. The fuse should be sized to match the max ampacity of your wire, not the output capability of your alternator. 150A fuse for 4awg wire..and 300A fuse for 1/0awg wire.

7) From the fuse, connect the wire to the positive terminal on your battery, again, leaving the stock wiring connected when you're done. The picture below shows the alternator to battery positive wire run from the alternator to the positive battery terminal. The other power wire is going to the amplifier.



(8)Last, let's move to the chassis to engine wire: (Again, because your alternator is grounded to the block, all you need to do is find a bolt somewhere on the block and connect it to the chassis. The alternator's mounting bracket is usually a good place to find these bolts).

Cool Again, either drill a new hole or connect this wire to the stock chassis ground. From the chassis ground, run the wire back to one of the mounting posts for the alternator (or to a bolt on the engine block).



9) That's it! You're done. Reconnect the vehicle's negative battery terminal and check out the difference!
kURETI is offline  
Old 9th May 2006, 17:32   #9
Senior - BHPian
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Faridabad
Posts: 6,814
Thanked: 295 Times
Default

good good good ......

Impressive, Good to have such member here .


One more thing which song do u people recommend while tunning the other part of the system.. Any specific number which u people recommend.

Last edited by low_bass_makker : 9th May 2006 at 17:35.
low_bass_makker is offline  
Old 9th May 2006, 18:29   #10
BHPian
 
kURETI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 104
Thanked: 0 Times
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker
good good good ......

Impressive, Good to have such member here .


One more thing which song do u people recommend while tunning the other part of the system.. Any specific number which u people recommend.
The best song to play when you tune the amplifier is the best and your favorite song which you keep listening very often.
kURETI is offline  
Old 9th May 2006, 18:30   #11
BHPian
 
kURETI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 104
Thanked: 0 Times
Default

Capacitors Everyone gets the wrong idea about capacitors. THEY ARE NOT A BATTERY. They do store energy, but for car audio, they're used to fill valleys and level out peaks when you have a long bass note. They are used to clean the signal only.
kURETI is offline  
Old 10th May 2006, 09:30   #12
Team-BHP Support
 
navin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: mumbai
Posts: 22,992
Thanked: 4,351 Times
Default

the Big 1F+ caps are really to stablise the voltage at the amp end not the battery end hence big caps will do nothing for your dimming lights either (as Rudraji found out) not unless you got 20F+.
navin is offline  
Old 10th May 2006, 09:44   #13
Senior - BHPian
 
amitoj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 3,015
Thanked: 1,725 Times
Cool Experts in all fields are i guess like this only!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rsjaurr
And guys when i met JB & Gunbir,JB did it without all this.He used his both ears and the thing in between.When i asked him why he dint use my cd[which i made using those softwares],i just got smiles from both of them and i understood everything and these guys dont need any assistance when its about music and its settings.


This is exactly how Psycho tunes my car! No meters... nothing. Jus his hands, ears n the stuff in between!
amitoj is offline  
Old 10th May 2006, 09:44   #14
Team-BHP Support
 
Rudra Sen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 10,631
Thanked: 4,353 Times
Default

I'm sending back that cap. Actually I haven't paid for it. It was only to check if there's any improvement. I have to go back to Venu to remove that. No issue from seller's (Preetam) side. In fact he called me last night and told me to send that cap back to him.
Rudra Sen is offline  
Old 10th May 2006, 09:50   #15
Team-BHP Support
 
navin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: mumbai
Posts: 22,992
Thanked: 4,351 Times
Default

Sam must have "spoken" to him. :-) LOL
navin is offline  
Closed Thread


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tuning Box versus Remaps (Diesel tuning) Ravveendrra Modifications & Accessories 154 29th April 2018 22:45
Spider Diesel Tuning Box VS. Pete's Tuning Box - Spider Box feedback on pg 2 Endeavour333 Modifications & Accessories 130 11th September 2017 01:24
Tuning your ICE: What are your settings? Magma In-Car Entertainment 53 8th June 2017 01:41
alpine 9887 + infinity kappa + jbl amps sounding harsh..please help tuning vickyre In-Car Entertainment 8 5th November 2008 14:02
The Dawn of Turbo Diesel Tuning in INDIA - Pete's Tuning Box turboindia Modifications & Accessories 108 17th April 2006 12:33


All times are GMT +5.5. The time now is 04:22.

Copyright 2000 - 2018, Team-BHP.com
Proudly powered by E2E Networks