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Old 2nd June 2006, 21:05   #16
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the rms rating of the amp at 12 volts is not listed anywhere on the site. But it could be nearly 400-500 rms at 2 ohms at 12volts.

And the amerage I will Keep my mouth shut as I dont wanna start again.
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Old 2nd June 2006, 22:58   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker
the rms rating of the amp at 12 volts is not listed anywhere on the site. But it could be nearly 400-500 rms at 2 ohms at 12volts.

And the amerage I will Keep my mouth shut as I dont wanna start again.
thanx LBM....2 things plz if u can help me again:

1. did u experience ANY trouble with ur set-up as far as amperage goes?

2. wat wd be, according to you, wd be the current drawn by a) Pioneer GM-6100F b) the amp in question (650)?
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Old 2nd June 2006, 23:38   #18
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Yes man the voltage drop is still there like i play the system for 15 min the voltage goes down to 13 volts and If i stop play or playing at low volume it returns back to 14.7 volts and I avoid playing at high volumes for long time. But till now every thing is ok report.

about the 6100 the current draw is max 35 amps and the average current in 4 channel 4 ohms mode ->9 amps. and in 2 channel 4 ohms mode is -> 15 amps.
And about the alpine I cannot comment as I dont have any info about the same to support.
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Old 2nd June 2006, 23:52   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker
Yes man the voltage drop is still there like i play the system for 15 min the voltage goes down to 13 volts and If i stop play or playing at low volume it returns back to 14.7 volts and I avoid playing at high volumes for long time. But till now every thing is ok report.

about the 6100 the current draw is max 35 amps and the average current in 4 channel 4 ohms mode ->9 amps. and in 2 channel 4 ohms mode is -> 15 amps.
And about the alpine I cannot comment as I dont have any info about the same to support.
i dunno much, buy my cap always show a rating of 13.25 whenever i switch on the car (not system)....as soon as i switch on the system, it tends to be between 11-13 all the times.

BTW, thodi si light to dalo, what do U guess the amperage shd be? even if u have nothing to support ur claim. am not gonna hold u liable for anything yaar!
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Old 3rd June 2006, 00:52   #20
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There are many experts in this forum they can help u on this. BTW why do u need the amperage for ???????
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Old 3rd June 2006, 00:59   #21
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just to make sure that i need not upgrade my alternator/battery if i use both of these. TATA says my alternator is 75 amps.
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Old 3rd June 2006, 01:07   #22
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my swift is also 75 amps every thing is fine u can give it a go for sure.
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Old 3rd June 2006, 10:02   #23
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Arrey LBM why be shy! :-)

The alternator delivers 75A. the battery can deliver more. Only the alternator will charge the battery at the rate of 75A.

500W amp at 2 ohms = 16A to the speaker. Assuming 50% efficiency the amp could draw as much as 30A from the battery. Remember this is not continous. Music is not a continous tone so at low levels the amp will put less amps etc...

Suffice to say that a 75A alternator and a good battery will easily power 2 or even 3 or 4 such amps.

Last edited by navin : 3rd June 2006 at 10:04.
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Old 3rd June 2006, 10:21   #24
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navin good battery = stinger or stock (exide) wd suffice? am in similar situation.

Last edited by mercedes : 3rd June 2006 at 10:38.
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Old 3rd June 2006, 11:12   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercedes
navin good battery = stinger or stock (exide) wd suffice? am in similar situation.
Sorry to elbow Navin on this one, but stock batteries are ok unless you have a high power requirement. Actually, I am of the opinion that anyone with a decent car audio setup should have a battery capable of deep cycling. The current is cleaner and more stable in addition to the battery having a higher Amp-hour rate. Stock batteries are provided by the manufacturer with the sole purpose of providing power to crank the engine. Stinger is good, even the SP800 should do the job for a small to medium petrol car.
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