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Old 28th May 2006, 23:15   #16
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OKh Gunbir...yes i did miss that one out !! well anyways now that seems to support my installer`s advice too... so now the questions arises as to

1) What exactly is this ACOUSTICALLY TRANSPARENT cloth ?? whr can i get it from in bombay ? and cost if possible ?

2)i understand that i need to cut the metal parcel tray...so do u advice damping on the shelf too as you done in the lancer...??

PS: if possible gunbir could you please upload the picture of the rear self of the lancer, once it was completed...coz one honda city i had seen with a similar install with a hole in the rear parcel but it didnt look that appealing since it had a plastic grill stuck on the top...the one mumbai auto walas have...jst wanted to see how you done with the lancer...
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Old 28th May 2006, 23:38   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amit_sound

1) What exactly is this ACOUSTICALLY TRANSPARENT cloth ?? whr can i get it from in bombay ? and cost if possible ?

2)i understand that i need to cut the metal parcel tray...so do u advice damping on the shelf too as you done in the lancer...??
1. Acoustically transparent cloth is the kind they use to make the grills for the home speakers. Its available in our AudioAZcomp product range. Though you could use any porus cloth material that air can pass through.

2. Like I said earlier, it is not 100% necessary you cut the tray. Try this... Dont modify the car in any way. Just install your sub boxes and play them. Listen any bass track you like. Now play the same song again at the same volume, except this time drop down one of the seats (is that possible in an accent, I forget), thereby creating a portal. If the difference in the bass is big enough for you, go for the cutting of the tray. But If you feel no change in bass quality or SPL, then save yourself the hassle of cutting vutting.

Yes Yes Yes. Damn the hell out of your car. Allocate a budget for some serious damping in your boot.

Umm... I dont have a clear pic of the tray after we finished but you can sorta see in this one... Look through the glass.. It just looks like a black fabric finished tray... No holes are seen. You can only see the speakers.




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Old 29th May 2006, 00:01   #18
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well tht seems good enough..i even had a look at the image lancer you`ll had built...both of them look good in their own way. both of them are extremly neatly done. nice job. im gonna show my installer these pics n lets see if he can do a similar job.

well i definately will try out the method u pointed out by dropping down the rear seat. but i guess if the installer guy can gimme a similar job as u have done on the rear parcel then i guess thats the solution !!

and sorry for this again ...but where all do i need to damp...the whole boot along with the tray or just the tray ?? this is because i have already streched my budget to the max....and just if i could get a rough idea as to how much will it cost...thnx a lot
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Old 29th May 2006, 00:29   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amit_sound
and sorry for this again ...but where all do i need to damp...the whole boot along with the tray or just the tray ?? this is because i have already streched my budget to the max....and just if i could get a rough idea as to how much will it cost...thnx a lot
Boot hatch, tray, boot sides. see the Image lancer install. Use Dynamat Extreme. Any money you spend on this is well worth it. Could cost you upto 5-6k.
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Old 29th May 2006, 00:33   #20
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okh..tht seems good enough !! and yes did see the image lancer....u got a hell lot of things goin in there...pretty hectic stuff....hope i manage to get anywhere near it....

cheerz
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Old 29th May 2006, 09:57   #21
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I'd use a vented box a la gunbir's pics. Note I distunguish vented from ported. vented is a box that in my definition does not have tuned port but a vent that allows sound to travel (sort of like a very very short wave guide).

The object of this:
Assume you have 2 12" woofers in your trunk right next to you 6x9s. I believe that the bass output of the 12" woofers will modulate the output of the 6x9.

What gunbir did was to use the trunk as a box and inject the rear output into the cabin. Using the vent only improves the attack. If your 6x9 are XOed so that you have adequate attack you can skip the vent.
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Old 30th May 2006, 14:26   #22
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I am running a little tight on budget.

How much would it cost only to get damping in front doors?

How much would it cost only to get damping in the rear tray?

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Old 30th May 2006, 15:08   #23
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I am running a little tight on budget, so tell me

1. How much would it cost me to damp only the front door?

2. How much would it cost me to damp only the rear tray, like in the VEGA pic?

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