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Old 8th January 2008, 00:42   #1276
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Originally Posted by navin View Post
no you wont. You amp's power supply regualtes adequately.
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Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
Who said that. Must be your installer.

well what exactly is the use of the capacitors ? can you guys please explain?

also just finished the installation and came home to post this!
just on volume-3 the woofer sounds so loud that i am scared that the woofer will blast if i exceed volume 10!

i have noted the woofer number its TS-307D pioneer sub woofer single coil, and just one small change, the CS300.1 was unavailable so had to resort to GTO301.1!

the woofer is a 300nominal power woofer will i need a bigger woofer to play at higher volumes or will this suffice with good tuning? although i am content with the bass, even with a minimal setting the woofer is too loud and dominating the mids and the highs! will just setting it right solve the problem or do i have to get a bigger woofer?
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Old 8th January 2008, 11:16   #1277
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Originally Posted by rider60 View Post
well what exactly is the use of the capacitors ? can you guys please explain?

the woofer is a 300nominal power woofer will i need a bigger woofer to play at higher volumes or will this suffice with good tuning? although i am content with the bass, even with a minimal setting the woofer is too loud and dominating the mids and the highs! will just setting it right solve the problem or do i have to get a bigger woofer?

This topic is well discussed try searching the forum.

You sub amp gains are too high try reducing them. Also 307 is DVC not a SVC.
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Old 9th January 2008, 19:08   #1278
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Presently, I have a JBL CS60.4 amp driving front compos (JBL GTO 607c) and rear co-axials (JBL GTO 637). I have tuned the amp for producing max. bass from the compos and as a result, the mid-bass drivers tend to reverberate a lot producing a rolling bass effect, which I hate. What I need is punchy and tight bass. The solution, as I understand, is adding a sub to the setup and this is where I need some help from the Gurus.

Question 1: Amongst a sealed box, a ported box and a bass tube, I believe the sealed box will provide the tightest bass. Is this correct?

Question 2: My budget is about 10K. Now within that budget, I see 3 options:-
  • Option 1 - Drive the rear co-axes off the HU and bridge two channels of the 60.4 to drive the sub. This should provide me with about 160W RMS @ 2ohms for the sub. If I get a 12" sub in a sealed box (say the new JBL GT5 series), will it provide enough juice? Does the GT5 series amp run at 2 ohms or 4 ohms? Any other good 12" subs I should look at?
  • Option 2 - Keep the existing set-up and get another 2-channel amp. Please suggest a decent two channel amp for about 5K for running the sub.
  • Option 3 - Get the cheapest monoblock in the market. No idea what that will be... suggestions please!! Of course, the mono will definitely breach my budget... does the difference in SQ justify the extra cost?
There's another option of course... replace the 60.4 with a higher powered amp (75.4?) and go for option 1, but I'm not sure I'll get a good price for it especially since its only 6 months old.

As you can see, there are options galore and as Mr. Sidhu would put it, I'm as confused as a child in a topless bar!! Help plz.
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Old 9th January 2008, 19:29   #1279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wimwian
Question 1: Amongst a sealed box, a ported box and a bass tube, I believe the sealed box will provide the tightest bass. Is this correct?
No it's not. Its just that it turns out that way mostly since people either buy boomy, poorly designed prefab ported, enclosed subs (or ported cylindrical enclosures, same thing), or make the ported enclosure incorrectly AND the fact that with a good 'sealed enclosure-suited' driver, a slightly off-dimension sealed box is more forgiving.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wimwian
Question 2: My budget is about 10K. Now within that budget, I see 3 options:-
Option 1 - Drive the rear co-axes off the HU and bridge two channels of the 60.4 to drive the sub. This should provide me with about 160W RMS @ 2ohms for the sub. If I get a 12" sub in a sealed box (say the new JBL GT5 series), will it provide enough juice? Does the GT5 series amp run at 2 ohms or 4 ohms? Any other good 12" subs I should look at?
This is the most logical thing to do. I think you should keep the other options on hold till you figure this part out. You'll atleast have an idea of whether the sub is improving the current condition. This could be simply done by borrowing a sub from a friend and figuring out if it inches a little closer to the sound you are desiring. Btw, its 160W at 4 ohms, it wont run a 2ohm load in bridged mode.

If this works, my suggestion is to get some more power for the fronts and the sub. i.e. a higher power 4-channel amplifier to replace the current one and some sound deadening.
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Old 9th January 2008, 23:55   #1280
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@Wim, so immediate POA could be 2 things.

1. Check with @shuvd (10" Kicker), @razor(GT4-12) if they can donate their subs for the test during a meet. The power handling of these subs would be nearer what the 60.4 will be able to put out. And then you could also check it out with my sub when it arrives

2. No harm in checking with the dealer from whom you got the amp right? Ask him how much you need to give for a 75.4 if exchanged with the 60.4.

Ajay, does clipping occur in case of subs being driven by lower powered amps?

Last edited by shuvc : 9th January 2008 at 23:57.
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Old 10th January 2008, 00:12   #1281
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Ajay, does clipping occur in case of subs being driven by lower powered amps?
Yes as the person operating the amp will try to extract more and in the end they went clipping.
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Old 10th January 2008, 00:34   #1282
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Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
Yes as the person operating the amp will try to extract more and in the end they went clipping.
@lbm, what exactly is meant by 'extracting more'? Is it by increasing volume, setting high dB levels in LF equaliser settings, bass boost etc?

I mean what should one be careful about, when running such a setup?
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Old 10th January 2008, 00:49   #1283
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Originally Posted by shuvc View Post
@lbm, what exactly is meant by 'extracting more'? Is it by increasing volume, setting high dB levels in LF equaliser settings, bass boost etc?

I mean what should one be careful about, when running such a setup?
Yes, by increasing volume beyond the point where it translates to increased power delivery by the amp.

The only care that can be taken is to avoid increasing the volume beyond the point where (i) the distortion of the sub is audible (exception is a band pass enclosures, where there the sub's distortion will not be audible) OR (ii) an increase in volume is not causing an increase in the level of bass
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Old 10th January 2008, 01:35   #1284
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Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
This topic is well discussed try searching the forum.

You sub amp gains are too high try reducing them. Also 307 is DVC not a SVC.

guys i was mistook the looks for the model number too the one i put up in the link is different from the one i have! what i have is TS-W307F and the one in the link is TS-W307D2 well here are a few pics take a look at them, it says 300W nominal power!

so after all i think i need to get myself at least a DVC pioneer sub that has a minimum 300W RMS power! i guess!







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Old 10th January 2008, 11:29   #1285
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The Nominal and RMS are the same thing. But this sub will play better in a IB install than anything else.
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Old 10th January 2008, 12:26   #1286
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Thanks Ajay and Shuvc. Will definitely try and get hold of a sub (maybe from the dealer himself) before taking the final call. I doubt he'll gimme a good price for the 60.4 in exchange for the 75.4, how I wish I'd gone for the latter in the first place!

In case I decide to go for another amp, which one would you guys suggest... basically looking for a 2-channel one for approx. 5K that would produce at least 250W RMS in bridged mode.
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Old 10th January 2008, 15:57   #1287
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Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
The Nominal and RMS are the same thing. But this sub will play better in a IB install than anything else.
what is an IB install?
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Old 10th January 2008, 17:44   #1288
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@Wim, I guess at that price point 250W might be difficult. You could however go for a bridgeable 2 channel amp that is rated at 75Wx2 RMS at 4ohms. These should put out 200-210W bridged at 4ohms.

That should suffice for a CS1204/GT4-12 or similar subs.
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Old 10th January 2008, 17:59   #1289
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Originally Posted by rider60 View Post
what is an IB install?
Infinite Baffle mounting, also known as Free Air mounting (the F suffix in your sub model number). Basically a mounting arrangement, without a conventional box, preventing the waves from the rear of the speaker meeting the waves from the front and canceling out.

Mounting on the parcel shelf or on a sheet directly behind the passenger seat back amounts to IB/FA.
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Old 10th January 2008, 23:09   #1290
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Thanks Deralte Sir..

Rider try searching for Flying Bong Ceida install it has a 15 inch IB sub installed.
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