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Old 20th July 2006, 12:13   #16
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Using Dynamat everywhere will cost a bomb, thts why i'm sticking to cheaper means . Yea i don't want to use the plywood, but instead just use the foam/mat and cover it with carpet. Shouldn't make it THAT heavy i hope.
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Old 20th July 2006, 13:01   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble
Hi Karthik! Good Looking Install. Particularly like the fact that the cutouts on the enclosure for the subs have not been centered with respect to each internally individual enclosure. This avoids the center(s) of pressure inside the enclosure from coinciding with the subwoofer's axis. Good thinking on the part of whoever made the enclosure. For aesthetic reasons probably, most people end up cutting holes exactly in the center.

The 122N's growl menacingly even with low input power. Try not to engage bass boost on the amplifier, or it becomes too rumbly. I wouldn't push those guys to play anything over 80 Hz either.

Why haven't you installed the subs upside down? I.e. with the subs firing inwards, and the magnets showing outwards. Thats a popular format with Audiobahn users, and looks cool. There is no implication sound-wise. Just make sure to reverse polarity on both subs' voice coils.
read that karthik?

Last eve he went out to show his setup to some guys ( u knw what I mean right?) who was like ***! such a small box, and that too 2 subs in one! and then why not ports on the frnt and what not!

The box was with teh package and was send/done by the Audiobahn dealer and it should of good design right?

bass boost: yes, i tried it with no bass boost and its currently in very low level/position. maybe it should be tried like you said...off!

As I already said in my post,LPF is at 80Hz or below as I want his 6x9 to play frm 80Hz up .

and the upside down thingy. Karthik you done? Waiting for pix.
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Old 20th July 2006, 14:16   #18
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karthik no need to dynamat everything. I use sponge rubber (shore hardness 40) between my number plate and car. For the rear spoiler a stiffer rubber might be required. maybe shore hardness 60 or so.
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Old 20th July 2006, 14:18   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin
karthik no need to dynamat everything. I use sponge rubber (shore hardness 40) between my number plate and car. For the rear spoiler a stiffer rubber might be required. maybe shore hardness 60 or so.
How do u damp the spoiler??

This guy here said first to use some foam, then some mat and a carpet over it.

For the number plate, can'tt he double side tape be used. Two layes of it would be enough to stop it from rattling i suppose

Last edited by karthik247 : 20th July 2006 at 14:22.
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Old 20th July 2006, 14:40   #20
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NO NO NO.. the two sided tape wont work... has not worked in my car even with no Subs!!

Oh... and congrats on your new ICE! ... We'll make a coupla omelettes togehter next time we meet!
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Old 20th July 2006, 14:46   #21
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OHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

KB is back!!! But why no bang this time??
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Old 20th July 2006, 15:01   #22
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I have a doubt. Would a mono amp become that HOT? Believe me I wasnt jokign, it will burn your finger.
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Old 20th July 2006, 15:25   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkdas
I have a doubt. Would a mono amp become that HOT? Believe me I wasnt jokign, it will burn your finger.
Does it qualify for: Kabhi Amplifier, Kabhi ironbox?

That means something is wrong with the setup! ? ?
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Old 20th July 2006, 15:42   #24
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Hmm...well, will do re-wiring on later this week. Damn when will i ever get it right!??? :(
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Old 20th July 2006, 15:55   #25
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Amp getting PIPING HOT... that too on the outside... can't even begin to think whats happenning on the inside!~!

This cannot be right... Amps do get hot ... but never as hot as you mention.... JK - that EGG part tru?... or is it really impossible to eevn touch?
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Old 20th July 2006, 16:03   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedzak
OHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

KB is back!!! But why no bang this time??
Man... this waiting is klilling me!!

Quoting B&T - I do havta work for a living you know...though he does pleasurable things for a living... Seems like the GAwds are conspiring!! .. Dint even have the energy left to have dinner the last few days...
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Old 20th July 2006, 16:53   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkdas
I have a doubt. Would a mono amp become that HOT? Believe me I wasnt jokign, it will burn your finger.
Not generally. Of course, amplifiers do get warm. But if they get this hot, it means possible wiring issues with your subs (possibly being run with 1ohm or 0.5ohm load), or lack of ventilation etc.

But the amplifier in question does have heat dissipation issues due to chrome plating (which isnt great for thermals) and the way its designed. I am no expert and certainly not a manufacturer... I'm sure B&T can answer this in detail.

If it is getting that hot, the amp should go into thermal shutdown.

Last edited by gunbir : 20th July 2006 at 16:56.
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Old 20th July 2006, 17:46   #28
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If AMP is getting so hot.. i am sure there is some fault in wiring. Look for wiring crossed wires or You may not be getting proper current.
Another reason may be difference in ohm rating and wattage rating of your AMP and sub woofers. If the AMP does a thermal shut down for a few times your AMP might get spoilt.
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Old 20th July 2006, 17:57   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunbir
Not generally. Of course, amplifiers do get warm. But if they get this hot, it means possible wiring issues with your subs (possibly being run with 1ohm or 0.5ohm load), or lack of ventilation etc.

But the amplifier in question does have heat dissipation issues due to chrome plating (which isnt great for thermals) and the way its designed. I am no expert and certainly not a manufacturer... I'm sure B&T can answer this in detail.

If it is getting that hot, the amp should go into thermal shutdown.
Uh...to the rescue? Had trouble finding a clean enough phone booth to change into my cape and tights.

Anyway, Gunbir is right about that, and he certainly is an expert. Black surfaces are best at absorbing and radiating heat, shiny ones are the worst. But the inside of the shell is not chromed, so the radiated heat still makes it's way to the metal chassis, and is radiated to the surroundings, albeit at a slower rate. There have been some arguments regarding shiny heat sinks being better since they don't absorb heat from the surroundings although they dissipate lesser, but all that is crap since all of the heat is generated inside the amp, and unless you want to install the amp next to a car's exhaust manifold. In the case of the 8000T, the amp is provided with a fan for forced convectional cooling. So that takes care of most of the thermal load. Which is why, the amp isn't running into thermal protection.

Check 3 things.

1. Gauge of wire, both power and ground (depends on the length you are running, and they should be the same gauge)

2. How secure your connections are. Make sure ground wire is not longer than 15" in length, and bolted securely to a clean, dust/ grease free part of the metal body, and then sealed to prevent corossion.

3. That the amp is ventilated properly, that nothing is obstructing the path of the fan's exhaust.
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Old 20th July 2006, 18:23   #30
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guys, its not the AW122N sub for sure. Its a dual coil sub.

Please wait till I check the subs on saturday.

p.s.: amps not overheating now after I tuned the amp last eve. This info was conveyed to me my karthik just now. I had to rush back last eve after I tuned teh amp.

B&T; what sub would it be frm pix? i wasnt with him during install and hence need info abt sub.

and if I am right the amp is stable at 800W @ 2ohm and 400W @ 4ohm

Last edited by jkdas : 20th July 2006 at 18:25.
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