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Old 28th August 2006, 02:13   #271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble
Firstly, let me clarify, in case you havent been following many posts from me, that I usually interlace some humor with facts, and I expect you to be able to identify that. Please dont take nothing personally. It's sometimes accompanied by smileys, but it takes away the fun if it's supposed to be hardcore sarcasm. <<-- appropriate here.


I think you took that statement of mine a bit too seriously. LBM is also as straight as a hibernating snake. (Uh, wrong example)
I am getting used to it man... just remembered Sam's exclusive JBL logo and your free music in the mornig which you mentioned in the soomoku thread so you can skip that extra line accompanying smiley!

@LBM, I thought he was the 1st one to support me... I need not bother about him at least during this cable discussion



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So, what is the question?
No question yet, its following. I just explained my thought about left over unreacted oxygen, that there is enough time for it to react.

Quote:
Anyway, one part that you rightly said yourself is that, to overcome the inadequacies of such wire caused by loss of conductivity for the required rated wire gauge, it sometimes calls for a higher gauge wire to be used.
If you think that using right wire guage is the solution to OFC, then I wouldn't argure further. It broke out because you said that OFC are less prone to oxidation as compared to normal ones even when they are isolated from air properly.


Quote:
Because there is no oxygen in one and oxygen in the other?
If you agree with my speculationn about all oxygen being consumed in oxidation by the time we actually install it, then both of them should be treated as oxygen-free thereafter.



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The above statement would be fitting for a poster on the walls of the urinals in Cinemax. They also have She Sells Sea Shells onna Sea Shore etc.
feel free to do the needful when you get to use those urinals next time... I don't want any copyright or royalty


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I said oxygen is 'added' in molten state. That is for a purpose. In the molten state, although oxygen has a chance to react with copper, it more readily reacts with like sulphur and some other stuff, i think hydrogen, maybe not but whatever, and these form gases and come out from the lava. After that purification, oxygen is unwanted, cos then it reacts with the copper. So if your wire has oxygen that's not wanted.
All right, but I found it hard to believe that the oxygen that was left over in molten condition did not react while it was cooling down, and also during the time it takes for it to reach the installation. When you fed some power to speakers, it was only then it starts reacting with copper. I think there are other processes also which the wire has to undergo like annealing and adding insulation. Copper must be getting exposed to a lot of heat here too, right?

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Nevertheless, I earlier mentioned that it isn't justified for every user to buy super high-end cables, the need (or lack thereof) has to be identified.
I am doing exactly the same... trying to find out the need as well as the lack of it! My requirement... I wouldn't dare to call myself an audiophile, but my ears surely are capable of differentiating certain things like sound of boom boxes called subwoofers just for the name sake and that of better subs. I would anyday prefer to spend my money on good wooden/mdf speakers rather than plastic boxes for home theater even if it does not go well with interiors (and more than that, with wife!). I don't like colored sound usually associated with cheap systems, don't call heavily distorted but loud music as powerful and excessively bright sound as crystal clear. If these are enough of symptompts, then I am an audiophile.

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Just as a clarification, I am not affiliated with anything to do with OFC or upward cables. In fact, if the need arises, I use Tamagachi cables (I can see LBM furiously googling, chill pal I just made that up myself! ). But I see reason for everything to exist.
No... I am not doubtful at all! I don't remember you trying to unduely praise any exotic brand (leave alone carving their logos, at even more exotic locations)


This topic- OFC vs. non OFC is highly debatable, just like ABS vs. lack of it, and it can go on forever. So I think it will be better to restrain ourselves now and not to go too far, whatever may be the outcome.
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Old 28th August 2006, 02:47   #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jinu_joseph
Santosh its not that simple, when you start increasing the core size of the cable you have other problems like skin effect (something i learnt on this forum, thanks to Navinji ) which further increases resistance of the wire. This offcourse can be mitigated by using litz wire or multithread core. You will also have problems with flexibility of wire, which is a problem if you have to run it thru tight places. So while you can achieve equal resisitivity results the net usabilty might be in question.
Jinu, before making comments on your post, let me congratulate you for your new car which might have arrived by now!

I agree with you. But as I had mentioned in the begining itself, we are dealing with low frequencies. Even highest audio frequency 20khz is quite low when it comes to electromagetics. skin effect will be there even at 1hz but the effect is negligibly small. The factor X that I mentioned for OFC is also very small, its not that we have to double the size of cables.

Why we need low resistance cables is because speaker impedence itself changes considerably with the frequency... and we want to offset its adverse effect on tonal balance by using cables having relatively very less resistance.
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Old 28th August 2006, 11:09   #273
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SAntosh

The discussions have been very entertainig so far... and knowledgable too... but pardon me for pointing out that we have a TWO SMILEY rule... your post #271 had 4 (SEVEN if you include quoted matter!).

Once again - Sorry for pointing out something so silly in the midst of all this technical stuff!
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Old 28th August 2006, 11:58   #274
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forgive me for violating that rule... the post itself was big too. I was aware of it, but I was under impression that there is another "unwritten" rule which says 2-smileys rule isn't really that strict... he he (using text to save a smiley!)

may be we should change the rule to "2 smileys for every 100 words" or something like that or "average no. of smileys for past 50 posts shouldn't cross 2 per post"... just kidding
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Old 28th August 2006, 12:31   #275
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Santosh thanks and point taken regarding the effect of skin effect.

Folks
Help required.. I finally fit my system and it sounds awesome, but there are some nagging queries. My system setup is as follows:

1. GTO 607c Compoenents for the front
2. PS552 Coax for the rear.
3. GTO 1204B Box Sub
4. GTO 75.4 Amp
6. JBL additional Cables
7. Phoneix Gold RCA Cable (Since JBL kit provided only one)

Now my queries:
1. I had actually wanted GTO 527 Coax for the rear, but then the installer said that he contacted JBL distributor they said that 527 was not available but they would give the PS 552 much cheaper when actually its much more expensive and much better. IS this true ?

2. The input sensitivity selectors on the GTO 75.4 have a + sign on them how do you decide which dash is the correct one ??

3. The input sensitivity/crossover frequency selectors turn more than 360 degrees so how do decide which is the correct setting.

4. If I run only my rear speakers (which is powered by the HU) using fader the volume is very low, is that how it should be. Do i need to change the amp setting for this to reduce the power to the front.

5. I found that the JBL speakers were actually manufactured in China? Is that true

6. How do i increase the sub effect without having to turn up the volume very high ?

7. Are Phoneix Gold RCA Cable good ??


Pics later.. once i complete the install totally next week.

Thanks
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Old 28th August 2006, 12:52   #276
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whats that PS552?
the 3rd q; a good installer should tune your amp well or you can try your hand at it.Check for a thread by Kureti abt this
4th;I think you would power frnt compos frm amp and rear frm HU. Teh compo would play louder than the rear and its upto your taste abt how you want your music. If you drive , then use fader to decrease out from rear and when u haev passengers at rear, cut the fade etc..
6; set the gain on the bridged channel a bit higher and/or use play with subout level on HU (if it has one)
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Old 28th August 2006, 13:07   #277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkdas
whats that PS552?
The PS 552 is a JBL 2 way speaker -5" (Power Series). The installer claims it to be better than the GTO series.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkdas
6; set the gain on the bridged channel a bit higher and/or use play with subout level on HU (if it has one)
By this do you mean keep the Input Sensitivity knob (There is no gain switch on my amp) to the lower end of the values. Its there from 75mV to 6V. So does it mean that if I keep it closer to 75mV it will increase the sub effect.
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Old 28th August 2006, 15:23   #278
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Jinu check thsi thread.
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/car-en...your-amps.html (Tuning your amps)
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Old 28th August 2006, 15:41   #279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkdas
Jk, I read this and found it very helpful but my problem is with the GTO 75.4 amp itself. one is with the knobs used to set the values. they have a plus, etched on them so how do you know which dash is the correct one, the horizontal one or the vertical one.

Also the knob turns over 360 degrees so how does one know which is the starting point and ending point.
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Old 29th August 2006, 09:43   #280
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Hi guys

Need some info, when I play my bass real high the boot door start rattling like crazy.. what can be done to avoid that.

Also what can be done to achive tighter bass and reduce the boom effect. I have a JBL GTO 1204B sub.
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Old 29th August 2006, 09:46   #281
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Jinu you need Damping. Damping !!! My car rattles too! grrr!
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Old 29th August 2006, 11:50   #282
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Hi folks, just got my doubts clarified on the JBL GTO 75.4 amp. I had two queries:
1. The knobs on the amp for input sensitivity and frequency selection have a plus sign on them, so how do you decided which dash is the indicator (the vertical or the horizontal).

ANSWER: The plus sign on the knob is not to be used as an indicator, it is provided only to acomodate + headed screwdrivers. The knob does not have an indicator, you have to turn it till you reach a setting that you like.

2. The knobs turn atleast 360 degrees before it stops whereas the values marked on the amp are within a 60 degree range, so how to determine the correct value

ANSWER: The knobs are allowed to turn about 360 degrees, but they should stop after that, they should not keep turning. Also the value it takes is only when the knob moves within that range, beyond that it is just free movement and has no impact on the setting.

Thanks Sam/Firoz for providing this info, I can now breathe in peace knowing that the amp is not damaged.
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Old 29th August 2006, 13:07   #283
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In most cases gain controls have about 270--300 deg. of rotation. Few amps use multiturn pots for this. multiturns give you more control but are more expensive and that degree of gain control is not really needed in car audio.
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Old 29th August 2006, 13:41   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jinu_joseph
Also what can be done to achive tighter bass and reduce the boom effect. I have a JBL GTO 1204B sub.
Sorry for pestering.. but does anyone have an answer for this ??
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Old 29th August 2006, 15:04   #285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jinu_joseph
I have a JBL GTO 1204B sub.
There is no GTO1204B

There is CS1204B

This is a small tight sealed enclosure.


There is GTO1204BR - Bass Reflex


And GTO1204BP - Bandpass Single


And GTO1204BP-D Bandpass Dual.


Alternatively you may have the slightly older GTO1200B - ported enclosure

So which one is yours
I just thought i would clear this up first.
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