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Old 7th August 2006, 21:31   #1
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Default Confused about audio config. exceeding budget

Hi People,

Following is the audio configuration that I was initially looking at:

HU : Pioneer6850
Front Components: 6 1/2 inch JBL GTO607
Rear Coaxials: 6x9 JBL GTO937
Amplifier : Pioneer GM-6200F
Subwoofer: Pioneer TS-W306C/DVC
Wiring Kit : Interlink Jr. by Monster

See, initially , my budget was 30K from 20K (I guess I got a little carried away reading the various threads on ICE). I primarily listen to both, hard rock and soft rock, along with some instrumental music. All I am lookng for is something with GOOD sound clarity and VFM.
I am almost certain that my current set-up exceeds a little over 30K.
I need some advice from the audio guru's.
Would it be advisable to go for JBL's GTO series and lose the amp+sub?
OR
Go for JBL's CS series and keep the amp. minus the sub?
OR
Simply stick with the CS series minus the amp+sub?

The GTO combo itself (front comps + rear coax) would cost me somewhere around 9-10K!

I think that at this time, budgetwise, I want to stay in the vicinity of 20K. I might be willing to stretch to 25K, if absolutely needed.

I look forward to some comments and suggestions.

P.S. I wish to have JBL as my choice of speakers.
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Old 7th August 2006, 21:57   #2
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HU : Pioneer6850 : 9k
Front Components: 6 1/2 inch JBL GTO607 : 6.5k
Rear Coaxials: 6x9 JBL GTO937: 4k
Amplifier : Pioneer GM-6200F :7k
Subwoofer: Pioneer TS-W306C/DVC :3.5k?
Wiring Kit : Interlink Jr. by Monster : 2k?

well?
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Old 7th August 2006, 21:59   #3
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i think lose the amp + sub which u can later on add hence makin ur system complete.....
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Old 8th August 2006, 00:26   #4
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[/quote]
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkdas
HU : Pioneer6850 : 9k
Front Components: 6 1/2 inch JBL GTO607 : 6.5k
Rear Coaxials: 6x9 JBL GTO937: 4k
Amplifier : Pioneer GM-6200F :7k
Subwoofer: Pioneer TS-W306C/DVC :3.5k?
Wiring Kit : Interlink Jr. by Monster : 2k?

well?
What are you suggesting? I am familiar with the prices.
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Old 8th August 2006, 00:32   #5
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jk bhai it comes to 32k which is not the luv budget ... I think he must install the ICE in two steps first the hu, speakers and later on the amp , sub.....this i think is practical.......and easy enough.........
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Old 8th August 2006, 00:39   #6
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LBM, I could go for JBL's CS series which I think, would be almost 5K cheaper than the GTO series, and still get to keep the amplifier minus the sub OR do you recommend that I stick with the GTO's and have the amplifier and sub fitted later.
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Old 8th August 2006, 00:53   #7
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amp and sub later as u must not do down hill u must go up hill......
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Old 8th August 2006, 06:33   #8
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ok so its 32k( was lazy to add up last night).

Yes; set by set setup would be nice. It took me 6months for me.

Get the Pio HU + compo + 6x9 now. CS series should be the old GTO series ( me right Sam?) and hence VFM. A 6x9 would serve as a small sub for now. If you can you can get a sony 4 channel amp at 4k now if you have saved money from getting CS series or maybe the Pio amp. Could you post the specs of 6200 as I havent heard much abt it.

which car by the way? And are you buying thsi 4 channel to run the compos + sub?
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Old 8th August 2006, 06:53   #9
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CS series should be the old GTO series ( me right Sam?) and hence VFM.
So, what do you suggest? Should I go for their GTO series which supposedly, is more superior, or go for their CS series which is a VFM.

A 6x9 would serve as a small sub for now. If you can you can get a sony 4 channel amp at 4k now if you have saved money from getting CS series or maybe the Pio amp.
I'm sorry, but what Sony 4-ch amplifier comes for 4K? If I were to have an amplifier fitted, would Sony or Pioneer be the preferred one?

Could you post the specs of 6200 as I havent heard much abt it.
4-Channel Power Amplifier with 600 Watts Max. Power
  • Bridgeable 2/3/4 Channel
  • 4 Channel Crossovers (HPF/LPF)
  • PWM Regulated MOSFET Power Supply
Number of Channels: 4
General Number of Channels: 4
Width: 11.8 in
Bridging: Yes
RMS Power Output: 60 W/channel
THD at Rated RMS Power (Unbridged): 0.01 %
Peak Power Output: 600 W
Weight: 13 lbs
Warranty Information: 1 Year Limited Warranty
Height: 2.3 in
Depth: 13.2 in
Max Frequency Response: 50 kHz
Min Frequency Response: 10 Hz
Signal To Noise Ratio: 80 dBA

which car by the way?
Indica XETA

And are you buying thsi 4 channel to run the compos + sub?
I guess? My knowledge is pretty limited; however, what would you suggest?

Last edited by luvjascha : 8th August 2006 at 06:56.
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Old 8th August 2006, 06:59   #10
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I'd like to have as much fitted within my budget, if possible. However, I wish not to compromise on quality, so if this means, having other items fitted at a later date, so be it!
Sound clarity and VFM are my top 2 priorities.
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Old 8th August 2006, 07:56   #11
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Pio would be teh preferred one as its more powerful. Since you would be using compos( by the way try to get old GTO606Ce; as it cheaper now as 607 is out) and would liek to add a sub later,get a good 4 channel amp like the Pio 6200 or 6150.

Best bet would be, buy a good and powerful 4 channel and sub later. Keep aside/save 15k for this to be on safe side. Get the rest for now. DONT cut teh extra wire cables as you may need them when you get the amp.
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Old 8th August 2006, 16:27   #12
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Any idea on the price of the GTO606Ce?
I understand that what I'm about to ask is off topic, but I didn't want to start a new thread, simply for one question that's been on my mind.
Wouldn't a fairly powerful system put a ton of load on the car's battery? Is it the amps. put out by the speakers, that affect the battery load?
Again, wouldn't climbing the ghats with both, the a/c and music, put a tremendous load on the battery?

Would appreciate if some fellow BHP'ian would throw some tips on the same.
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Old 8th August 2006, 17:02   #13
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I dont think you have to worry about the battery as yet. There are guys with several 15" subs, amps (including 1000W monoblocks etc) whose cars are still functioning OK. Only once you get into the serious stuff would you need to think about replacing the battery.

My cost cutting suggestion for you is for the moment dont put those 6x9 coaxials in the rear. Front compos and a sub will cover the entire freqency range, and unless you really want to entertain your backseat passengers i feel that sound should be best at the front end of the car.
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Old 8th August 2006, 17:09   #14
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It'll just be me ! I very seldom drive with pax in the rear seat.
So, I have 2 suggestions:
1. Eliminate the amp+sub, keeping the front comps. and rear coaxials.
2. Eliminate the amp +rear coaxials, keeping the front comps. and sub.
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Old 8th August 2006, 17:13   #15
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a good idea "theEnd". But rear passenger will find it very odd.Maybe he can add co-ax later on; a 4k job. But he would save just 4k on it.

Last edited by jkdas : 8th August 2006 at 17:20.
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