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Old 27th November 2006, 11:26   #46
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Default Egadsssssss

But this is how the amp exactly looks like.... Me definitely doing the U turn on this and shelling out the difference of 6k between the CS60.4 and the GTO75.4... Hope my problems come to an end with this... Is this an OK move?
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Old 27th November 2006, 13:32   #47
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Damn these fake alpine amps are all over the place. they even have model numbers that look like "original" alpine numbers.

Ensure that you get a BILL and a MANUFACTURERS warranty from your dealer and have him stamp the warranty card with his stamp so that you are assured of service. If a dealer refuses to stamp the warranty card stay away.
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Old 27th November 2006, 13:52   #48
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The ideal solution for you is to get another amplifier for your subwoofer.

See you have 3 sets of speakers - One pair of coax, one pair on (only) tweeters) and one sub that needs a bridged output.

Essentially you are probably connecting the coax and the tweeters in parallel (a terrible thing to do in any case, you will have excess treble)
For now, let the tweeters run off the HU. Later, get a mono amplifier for the subwoofer and you can run your (future) components and the GTO937 off the CS560.4.
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Old 27th November 2006, 19:06   #49
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A 60.4 will do for you unless you have an idea for components and/or better subwoofer in the future. In which case, you should get the 75.4.

Your wiring should be sorted out. And I think you should change your current speaker setup to components also. Do it when your pocket allows you to.

Whatever you do, please go to a better installer. This man seems to take you for a ride.
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Old 27th November 2006, 19:22   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi View Post
See you have 3 sets of speakers - One pair of coax, one pair on (only) tweeters) and one sub that needs a bridged output..
why use them tweeters at all?
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Old 28th November 2006, 13:38   #51
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Default Is this alright?

Step 1

a) Am gonna remove the tweeters from the setup right now and letting them run of from the HU in parrallel with the front 2 way Blau speakers

b) Installing GTO75.4 and get that to power the GTO937 and the CS1204B

Step 2

Get my a$$ moving out of the pc and onto the market to make me some money to fund Step 3

Step 3

a) GTO607 up front driven by GTO75.4 (existing)

b) GTO937 (existing) driven by GTO75.4 (existing)

c) GTO301.1 or GTO601.1 when I get the moolah and depending upon how much moolah I can muster to drive the GTO1204B

Gurus is this alright?
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Old 28th November 2006, 13:41   #52
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The 301.1 will drive a single 1204B alright. use the spare cash to upgrde your wiring instead.
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Old 29th November 2006, 16:57   #53
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Default Wiring Upgrade

Boss, Have already upgraded my wiring with a wiring kit from JBL and one set of wires from Blaupunkt... @ 3K and 1.75K each respectively. I sthat alright? and is Step 1 OK cos thats what i'm gonna do before step 2?
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Old 29th November 2006, 23:58   #54
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Question need help for audio in my esteem

Soo guys, i am here for much needed help from our audio gurus. I am in search for a new 4 channel amp since my Alpine 240 got stolen a couple of months back .

Kindly help me choose between the JBL GTO 75.4 and the JBL CS 60.4.

My current setup is

HU - Pioneer P1Y

Fronts - Kicker ES 4.2 (4 Inch component set)

Rears - JBL GTO 936

Now i know its a no brainer to choose a GTO 75.4 over the CS 60.4 and the difference of 4k between the two amps is really not an issue but i have my doubts which are as follows-

1. The rears will be able to take the power from the rear channel of the 75.4 easily i guess but what about the front 4 inch components which are rated @ 35W RMS and have a peak output of 70W??? Will they be able to take the power from the front channels of a 75.4 without damaging the front speakers or the amp? Will my front speakers sound good in terms of SQ at reasonable volumes without any sort of distortion?

2. Secondly i have heard that the GTO 75.4 is extremely power hungry and can drain the battery in no time? Now i plan to add a JBL GTO Monoblock and a JBL GTO Sub sometime in the next year. Soo will i need to upgrage my charging system or add a capacitor or something coz i don't think i would have resources to spend on that

Kindly help, and like i said primary objective is SQ at reasonably loud volumes without much distortion. Thanx.

Cheers

Last edited by prince85 : 30th November 2006 at 00:03.
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Old 30th November 2006, 00:08   #55
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Nay!!! Not much of a problem in my sight.

Get the 75.4 if you have the moolah and forget everything else.
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Old 30th November 2006, 13:19   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prince85
1. The rears will be able to take the power from the rear channel of the 75.4 easily i guess but what about the front 4 inch components which are rated @ 35W RMS and have a peak output of 70W??? Will they be able to take the power from the front channels of a 75.4 without damaging the front speakers or the amp? Will my front speakers sound good in terms of SQ at reasonable volumes without any sort of distortion?
They won't be the best considering that the speaker location is more detrimental than the speaker itself for most 4" stock locations. But it's still better than powering with the HU alone. Trim the gain to slightly lower than normal, and keep the HPF nice and high.

Quote:
Originally Posted by prince85
2. Secondly i have heard that the GTO 75.4 is extremely power hungry and can drain the battery in no time? Now i plan to add a JBL GTO Monoblock and a JBL GTO Sub sometime in the next year. Soo will i need to upgrage my charging system or add a capacitor or something coz i don't think i would have resources to spend on that
Extremely power hungry compared to a basic Sony 2-channel or say, a head unit - YES. Extremely power hungry compared to the CS 4-channel or some other comparable 4-ch amplifier - I wouldn't think so. Power hungry and resource intensive compared to a pure Class A design that Navin would perhaps be contemplating - Dream on, boy!

Quote:
Kindly help, and like i said primary objective is SQ at reasonably loud volumes without much distortion. Thanx.
The difference in output between a 60 vs 75 watt amplifier is not very great, and barely audible (purely output SPL terms, please let this not stir up a debate). But the GTO amplifier is much better than the CS, I personally, very strongly feel.
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Old 30th November 2006, 13:45   #57
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Thanks a lot B&T, that post of yours was really helpful. But i am still a bit unclear about the choice between the CS 60.4 and the GTO 75.4, i know the 75.4 is a better amp but my question is will the front Kicker components up front be able to take it??? Will the sound quality of the front components be affected by running a 75.4 to drive it considering that they are doing duty in stock location on the dashboard????

The Kicker component set (the only full component set in size 4" that i came across in Mumbai), i am very satisfied with it in terms of sound quality. Soo i want to be extra careful while choosing an amp coz i dont want my fronts (rated @ 35w rms) to be blown coz of feeding it with more power @ 75W RMS from a powerful amp(read JBL GTO 75.4).

Kindly help

Cheers

Last edited by prince85 : 30th November 2006 at 13:54.
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Old 30th November 2006, 16:06   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prince85 View Post
Thanks a lot B&T, that post of yours was really helpful. But i am still a bit unclear about the choice between the CS 60.4 and the GTO 75.4, i know the 75.4 is a better amp but my question is will the front Kicker components up front be able to take it??? Will the sound quality of the front components be affected by running a 75.4 to drive it considering that they are doing duty in stock location on the dashboard????

The Kicker component set (the only full component set in size 4" that i came across in Mumbai), i am very satisfied with it in terms of sound quality. Soo i want to be extra careful while choosing an amp coz i dont want my fronts (rated @ 35w rms) to be blown coz of feeding it with more power @ 75W RMS from a powerful amp(read JBL GTO 75.4).

Kindly help

Cheers
It won't blow if you take a few precautions. If the 75.4 can blow it, the 60.4 will too, and so will some other 25 watt amplifier.

When installing the new amp, do this:

1. Set the head unit to your favorite equalizer mode (whatever bass/ treble, loud mode that you use most).

2. Keep the gain on the front 2 channels of the amp at lowest for starters.

3. Engage HPF from either the HU or the amplifier depending on which one is offering the required flexibility. Set the HPF to about 125 Hz.

4. Disconnect all other speakers and subs by removing their respective signal cables, or by merely fading and switching off sub if your head unit configuration allows you that.

5. Switch on the system, pop in your favorite cd, and increase the volume up all the way.

I would assume that there should be no distortion from the speakers. There's 2 paths here-onwards.

1. If there is no distortion, increase the gain gradually in small steps until the point that you do hear distortion. If you reach this point, reduce the gain a wee bit again to reach a point where the music is clear again. Let this be the gain setting for the front speakers.

2. If there is some jarring even at the lowest gain level, increase the HPF cut off frequency gradually to the point where the speakers are not overloading and/ or phase cancellation is eliminated and the sound is cleaner. Set the HPF cut-off frequency at this level.

Then proceed to hook up the rest of the components like the rears and the sub, and maintain the gain on the other channels at normal levels depending on your head unit's pre-out.
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Old 30th November 2006, 22:26   #59
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prince, I think B&T has detialed it well. remember the wattage rating of most speakers is thermal. however most speakers are MORE limted by their physical limits. 35W at 1000Hz is easy but 35W at 50Hz will damage most small speakers. So use a HPF. with a 4" i would recommend starting at 160hz and then working yourself down depending how loud you want your front speakers to play.
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Old 30th November 2006, 23:15   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
prince, I think B&T has detialed it well. remember the wattage rating of most speakers is thermal. however most speakers are MORE limted by their physical limits. 35W at 1000Hz is easy but 35W at 50Hz will damage most small speakers. So use a HPF. with a 4" i would recommend starting at 160hz and then working yourself down depending how loud you want your front speakers to play.
Thanks soo much for the help B&T and Navin.

Ok, soo now i know from you guys that it is possible to amp up my existing speakers (without damaging them) with the JBL GTO 75.4(after taking care of issues like careful tuning of HPF for the fronts)

So Navin, in the end would you too suggest me to go in for the JBL GTO 75.4 over the JBL CS 60.4 wrt. my current configuration in my car(especially the front speakers)????. Which one would you single out for me?

And finally what about the wiring part. Will the JBL wiring kit costing 3k suffice?Any other brands??Help!

Cheers
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