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Old 30th November 2006, 23:20   #61
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I'd get the 60.4 if you dont ever intend to use a sub or a 75.4 if you ever need a sub. then 2 of the 4 channels of the 75.4 can be used to drive the sub. te 75.4 has only a few more watts than the 60.4 but just going from the size of the 2 amplifiers my guess is that the 75.4 can dump many more amps (into low and/or complex impedances).

if you want more bang for your buck you can upgrade the front speakers with the money saved. I think Sam however would advise taking your wife/girlfriend out for dinner. Your choice.

Last edited by navin : 30th November 2006 at 23:24.
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Old 18th February 2007, 18:04   #62
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Default Finally amped my Kappas

All, I finally got myself an MRV F345 and had it installed in my Accent. Ch 1&2 drive 5.25in Infinity Kappa coax in the front and ch3&4 are bridged to drive a Kappa perfect 10.1 in a sealed enclosure made to spec(0.6cuft). There arent any rear speakers for now. Entire wiring is Audison(power/speaker/RCA).

The Kappa 5.25s have really come alive, now that they are powered. THey throw a wide and respectable soundstage thats slightly wider than the car. THe lower and mid is exceptional and I had to tame down the highs a bit to suit my taste. Overall the coaxials do an impressive job and I'm really happy abt them. Yes, Infinity speakers need to be driven by a clean powerful signal, to do any justice to them. I wonder how the kappa compos will sound if the coaxials are so good.

Now to my woes. The perfect 10.1 has been a bit of disappointment. THe bass just isnt comming out. THe amp in bridged mode is supposed to give atleast 250wrms at 13.5v (300@14.4v). For decent bass output, I have to crank up the volume and even then it just doesnt cut it. I dont like boomy bass and thats why I went for a 10inch in a sealed encl, for clean punchy as tight as it can get bass. Of course its tight when loud but it lacks power and sounds a bit muffled at lower volumes. The gain is also set pretty high (possible range is 4V to 0.2V and its now at 1.3V)

Yesterday, I tried a ported enclosure, also made to Infinity specs(1cuft), but its boomier and not significantly more powerful.

There may be something wrong in my setup that is causing this behavior. So I need your expert help to identify it.
I'd like to know if its the amp or the sub or the HU that is at fault. BTW, I have a 6850.

For starters, is there a way to test the actual bridged output of the amp using a multimeter? How do i do it?

Thanks,
jCube
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Old 18th February 2007, 20:08   #63
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off topic! but ********. Entire wiring is Audison(power/speaker/RCA). *********

How much did this cost you?

AB.
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Old 18th February 2007, 22:54   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babhishek View Post
off topic! but . Entire wiring is Audison(power/speaker/RCA).

How much did this cost you?

AB.
8GA Power wiring kit - 3800
2X 2ch RCA - 2000
14GA Speaker Cable - 180 per meter
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Old 20th February 2007, 11:32   #65
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Slightly off topic:
But is the SONY XPLOD 4 CHANNEL AMP BAD...
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Old 20th February 2007, 13:01   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jCube View Post
Kappa perfect 10.1 in a sealed enclosure made to spec(0.6cuft). There may be something wrong in my setup that is causing this behavior.
a) try another amp like a JBL 75.4 if your dealer has one just to test
b) sealed boxes do need more power than ported boxes but 200W rms should be more than enough. did you account for teh loss of box volume (space used by driver, bracing etc..) when making the box. Is the net internal Vb 0.6 liters?
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Old 20th February 2007, 13:02   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASH-WINS View Post
Slightly off topic:
But is the SONY XPLOD 4 CHANNEL AMP BAD...
Grainy. Not bad.
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Old 21st February 2007, 08:06   #68
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Default Infinity 10.1

Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
a) try another amp like a JBL 75.4 if your dealer has one just to test
b) sealed boxes do need more power than ported boxes but 200W rms should be more than enough. did you account for teh loss of box volume (space used by driver, bracing etc..) when making the box. Is the net internal Vb 0.6 liters?

Thanks Navin, The Infinity spec on the box volume says 0.6cuft "includes driver displacement" - The statment isnt very clear but I assumed, displacement in this context is the volume of the magnet, spider etc. Hope my assumption isnt too wrong.. :(

Another point I noticed. THere is an Input Channel Selector Switch in the amp, which has the following behavior.

a) Setting this switch to “1/2” will send the signal
at the inputs of CH-1/2 to CH-3/4 of the
MRV-F345. This eliminates the need for
“Y”-adaptors when using a head unit with a
single pair of pre-amp output.

b) Set this switch to “3/4” to have the inputs of
CH-3/4 accept independent input signals. An
example of this application would be the use
of a head unit with dual pre-amp outputs.

c) Setting this switch to “1 + 3/ 2 + 4” will sum
the CH-1 and CH-3 input and send it to CH-3
while the CH-2 and CH-4 inputs are summed
and sent to CH-4.

I noticed that when set to 3/4, there is no o/p from the sub
meaning there is no sub woofer signal from the HU(I've
connected the sub out of HU to 3/4).

Is it the right conclusion? or is there any further possible
inference?

CUrrently I've set the switch to "1/2" as "3/4" does not give any output does that explain the low o/p?

Also one basic qn... Does the i/p gain determine the o/p power?
i.e, if I've set the gain at 60%, does it mean the o/p rms too will be
60% of rated rms?
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Old 21st February 2007, 10:41   #69
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Did you do the install yourself? DIY?
Sorry, what's your HU?
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Old 21st February 2007, 10:52   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jCube View Post
Thanks Navin, The Infinity spec on the box volume says 0.6cuft "includes driver displacement" - The statment isnt very clear but I assumed, displacement in this context is the volume of the magnet, spider etc. Hope my assumption isnt too wrong.. :(

Another point I noticed. THere is an Input Channel Selector Switch in the amp, which has the following behavior.

a) Setting this switch to “1/2” will send the signal
at the inputs of CH-1/2 to CH-3/4 of the
MRV-F345. This eliminates the need for
“Y”-adaptors when using a head unit with a
single pair of pre-amp output.

b) Set this switch to “3/4” to have the inputs of
CH-3/4 accept independent input signals. An
example of this application would be the use
of a head unit with dual pre-amp outputs.

c) Setting this switch to “1 + 3/ 2 + 4” will sum
the CH-1 and CH-3 input and send it to CH-3
while the CH-2 and CH-4 inputs are summed
and sent to CH-4.

I noticed that when set to 3/4, there is no o/p from the sub
meaning there is no sub woofer signal from the HU(I've
connected the sub out of HU to 3/4).

Is it the right conclusion? or is there any further possible
inference?

CUrrently I've set the switch to "1/2" as "3/4" does not give any output does that explain the low o/p?

Also one basic qn... Does the i/p gain determine the o/p power?
i.e, if I've set the gain at 60%, does it mean the o/p rms too will be
60% of rated rms?

ya you are right about the volume part.....

you have alpine amp....if you wanna drive the front and the sub then select it to position (c) and wire it like this.....



no it is incorrect the setting of 60% gain does not mean that it will work at the 60 % power....
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Old 21st February 2007, 10:56   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jCube View Post
c) Setting this switch to “1 + 3/ 2 + 4” will sum
the CH-1 and CH-3 input and send it to CH-3
while the CH-2 and CH-4 inputs are summed
and sent to CH-4.

I noticed that when set to 3/4, there is no o/p from the sub
meaning there is no sub woofer signal from the HU(I've
connected the sub out of HU to 3/4).

Is it the right conclusion? or is there any further possible
inference?
Lets not get too technical right now....first lets solve your problem.

1) the sub should be connected across the 2 outer terminals on the channel 3/4 speaker outputs.
2) Use the MODE switch and check Filter Indication
3) see page 16 of the user manual and follow the the 3 channel mode settings exactly.
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Old 24th February 2007, 08:05   #72
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Default woofer issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
Lets not get too technical right now....first lets solve your problem.

1) the sub should be connected across the 2 outer terminals on the channel 3/4 speaker outputs.

2) Use the MODE switch and check Filter Indication

3) see page 16 of the user manual and follow the the 3 channel mode settings exactly.

Sorry for the delay guys, was tied up at work.

1) Yes its done that way.

2) for ch1&2 its at 60Hz(HP) and for ch 3&4 its at 80/100hz(LP) dont remember exactly

3) wiring is as shown in the 3ch mode. (The pic that LBM posted)


Speedzak, installation was not DIY. It was done at Motor Plaza. But I did the tuning pretty much myself though. Also, currently its in a ported box that I changed to myself. Both enclosures were made by a professional carpenter. Here's a pic of the sealed enclosure lined with glass wool.

[COLOR=#800080]http://myimgs.net/images/insz.jpg[/COLOR]

Thanks,
jCube
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Old 26th February 2007, 13:02   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jCube View Post
2) for ch1&2 its at 60Hz(HP) and for ch 3&4 its at 80/100hz(LP) dont remember exactly
the box looks good. No air leaks that are visible but you can check that youself as well why not try another amp?
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