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Old 17th December 2006, 19:27   #1
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Red face need advice for sub and amp

OK guys, I know there are a lot of threads in here which can partially answer all my queries and believe me Iíve already gone through most of them. But still i need some advice and I guess that's what makes this forum go on.

My existing ICE setup:
Car-Suzuki Swift vxi-abs
Hu-Pioneer 4850
Front- Components JBL 606
Rear- 2-way speaker system again JBL
Sub-woofer-None
Amplifiers-None

I want to get a Sub and an AMP now and after going through all the threads Iíve zeroed in on the following with approx prices :

Sub-woofer
JBL 12 Inch Ported Subwoofer Tube For the Car - CS1204T 6500/-
JBL 12 Inch Sealed Subwoofer Box for the Car - CS1204B 8000/-
JBL 10 Inch Ported Subwoofer Tube for the Car - CS1004T 5000/-

Amp
JBL 520-Watt 4-Channel Amplifier - GTO75.4 13000/-
JBL 4-Channel Full-Range Amplifier - CS60.4 9000/-
Sony XM504Z 4 Channel 6000/-
Sony Xplod Series Power Full Amplifier 504 5250/-

So my questions are as follows:

1. As I saw somewhere Grey market Pioneer 4850 do not have pre-outs... does that make a difference in the decision I make for the sub and amp?

2. For swift which one would be a better sub in terms of space? (Ideally I would like some boot space left after placing the sub)

3. What is the best possible combination of sub and amp I should go with keeping in mind that i would set it up so that I drive the front components with 2 channels and the other 2 would drive the sub?

4. Also Iím in Bangalore and I need to know who should I go to for this kind off setup, as Iíve read about mistakes done by inexperienced technicians blowing out fuses etc. ?

5. Please suggest the wiring kit I should put in for this setup?

I guess Iíve put enough queries to get this thread started. Waiting for replies of all the gurus out there.
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Old 17th December 2006, 22:27   #2
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The kind of sub enclosure choice is totally depending on your listening preference, if you wanna save space, then tube is not a great idea, rather a sealed enclosure is best, however if you like booming bass then Sealed box is not the thing to do.
Your choices are fine, for the subs, don't buy Sony amps, they are not worth looking at unless one is a really tight budget crunch.
I would say buy a 75.4 and a 1000 Watt JBL sub, it will match well.

And yeah, wiring kit, buy SCOSCHE efx or Audison or JBL.
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Old 17th December 2006, 23:37   #3
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Just out of curiosity is JBL 12 Inch Ported Subwoofer Tube For the Car - CS1204T is better in boom than
JBL 12 Inch Sealed Subwoofer Box for the Car - CS1204B ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueraven316 View Post
however if you like booming bass then Sealed box is not the thing to do.
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Old 18th December 2006, 00:11   #4
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Yes, the ported tube (CS1204T) will have substantially more boom than the sealed one (CS1204B). The sealed one will give out tight, clean bass. They also have a ported box -- the CS1204BR which will give more boom than the sealer box, but lesser boom than the ported tube. A nice compromise, I should think.

It is good that JBL has such choice of enclosures for the same sub driver. It is easy for people to listen and choose.
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Old 18th December 2006, 10:09   #5
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If you want tight bass go for a sealed enclosure, but please listen to both before you make your choice.

Preouts make a difference, how many preouts does it have...I am sure it has atleast one... check your manual or check with the guy from who you bought. Also, read the sticky section on the ICE forum for explanation on Pre-outs and other definitions.

If you have the budget, like blue said, go for GTO 75.4 with 12 inch sealed JBL Sub. Connect 2 channels to the SUB and two to your components and it will ROCK!!! I have heard this setup and was quite impressed.
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Old 18th December 2006, 14:29   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madbullram View Post
Preouts make a difference, how many preouts does it have...I am sure it has atleast one... check your manual or check with the guy from who you bought. Also, read the sticky section on the ICE forum for explanation on Pre-outs and other definitions.
From the manual it syays the following :

DEH-P4850MPH
Features
  1. WAV file playback
  2. iPodģ adaptor ready
  3. BMX (Bitmetric qualizer)
  4. EEQ
    5-mode preset equalizer
    1-mode custom preset equalizer
    3-band parametric equalizer
    Bass Boost
    2-way crossover: HPF/LPF
    3-mode selectable loudness
    Selectable FIE (Front Image Enhancer)
  5. Rotary Volume
  6. Direct Sub Drive
  7. 1 RCA preout: selectable (rear/subwoofer)
So i guess i've one RCA preout in my HU. I went through the posts but it's still confusing as to what this preout would be used for ?

If i go for say 60.4 and the 12" CS1204T how would the connections go from my HU to the sub and speakers ?
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Old 18th December 2006, 15:56   #7
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One preout (rear/subwoofer) means you will not be able to use the "fader" function in the HU if you power the front & rear speakers from the amp. If you leave the front & rear speakers running off the HU, and use the preout for the sub amp only, then no problem.

To connect a 60.4 (4-ch amp), you'll need a Y-splitter at the HU end (in the single pre-out) to give 2 sets of RCA inputs to the amp. Then you can run the sub and the front speakers from the amp. Here you will not be able to use the fader function in the HU, but front-rear balance can be set with the gains in the amp.

I think the preout will need to be selected to "rear", and the rear speakers will need to be run off the front speaker-outputs of the HU. (Selecting "Rear" preout in the HU will probably silence the rear speaker-outputs of the HU).
I'm an armchair installer here (with no personal Pioneer wiring experience whatsoever) so do bear with my ignorance :-) Your installer will have no problem setting this up.
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Old 19th December 2006, 12:55   #8
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If you want to use amp just to power the sub then I JBL 60.2 amp would be sufficient for the sub. I think with the single sub that you are planning to use (CS1204B), you dont need 75.4. If you are on a budget and want to power the front comps as well then I guess a better option would be to exchange the current 4850 to 6850(3 preouts) and use 60.4 to power the comps as well as the sub. Personally i am using 6850 and 60.4 to power my comps (2 sets - front and rear doors) and 60.2 for CS1204B sub in my getz and I find 60.2 quite sufficient to power the sub. You can go to sound factor on lavelle road. The guy's name is preetam and I have got my setup done from him and he is quite good at installation. And regarding the wiring, you can again pickup JBL kit or monster kit.
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Old 19th December 2006, 17:39   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malgudi View Post
If you want to use amp just to power the sub then I JBL 60.2 amp would be sufficient for the sub. I think with the single sub that you are planning to use (CS1204B), you dont need 75.4. If you are on a budget and want to power the front comps as well then I guess a better option would be to exchange the current 4850 to 6850(3 preouts) and use 60.4 to power the comps as well as the sub. Personally i am using 6850 and 60.4 to power my comps (2 sets - front and rear doors) and 60.2 for CS1204B sub in my getz and I find 60.2 quite sufficient to power the sub. You can go to sound factor on lavelle road. The guy's name is preetam and I have got my setup done from him and he is quite good at installation. And regarding the wiring, you can again pickup JBL kit or monster kit.
What i understand from your post is that i keep my existing setup as it is and just take the preout, connect it to 60.2 and let the 60.2 drive my sub. Correct me if i'm wrong.

Earlier i was suggested to get a 60.4 and drive my front compos with 2 channels and the remaining 2 would drive the sub.

Actually i like your idea, as i'm satisfied by the music produced by the HU driving my comp and co-ax. All i want is to add extra boom to the music and if a 2 channel amp with a 12" sub can do that, then i think i'll go with your suggestion. Can you PM me the approx cost of the sub, amp and wiring that you got from sound factor ? Also it would be great if you have this guy preetam's phone no.
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Old 20th December 2006, 13:16   #10
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Have PMed you the details :-)
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Old 21st December 2006, 13:30   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malgudi View Post
Have PMed you the details :-)
Thanks a lot for the details .

One more thing if i just buy the 60.2 and the 12" tube then i don't need to upgrade my HU... am i right ?


Also would it make a big difference in sound if i drive the sub with the sony 502, all i know is i would never want to play the sub at it's full capacity. ?
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Old 21st December 2006, 13:34   #12
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Also has anybody heard of Vinay (Car n Style) on JC Road ,B'lore ? i was given his refrence by a friend, is he capable of good installations ?
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Old 22nd December 2006, 22:30   #13
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i suggest you to use the JBL cs-1204b(subwoofer in a pre tuned encloser) instead of the bass tube. Since you are using only a 60.2 for the subs, and no amplification for your speakers the bass tube may sound too boomy. The box will give you a tighter bass which i think will match better with your existing setup plus it will occupy lesser boot space and the looks........definately better. And do not forget to turn on the HIgh Pass filter on your head unit after the install is complete. you can set it to 80 Htz. This will take care of the distortion your are facing right now in your speakers when you pump up your volume.
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Old 23rd December 2006, 10:16   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malgudi View Post
If you want to use amp just to power the sub then I JBL 60.2 amp would be sufficient for the sub. I think with the single sub that you are planning to use (CS1204B), you dont need 75.4.
I disagree. Sealed boxes are less sensitive than ported ones. A 60.2 would not be sufficient to drive the CS1204B. I suggest a CS300.1 or a GTO75.4 or a GTO301.1.
The CS60.2 bridged can be used to drive the tubes as they are ported and drive easier.
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Old 23rd December 2006, 12:07   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi View Post
I disagree. Sealed boxes are less sensitive than ported ones. A 60.2 would not be sufficient to drive the CS1204B. I suggest a CS300.1 or a GTO75.4 or a GTO301.1.
The CS60.2 bridged can be used to drive the tubes as they are ported and drive easier.
Yep, with a 60.2 in a sealed box the sub wont even jump, it will purr like a cat. You need a monoblock with some Decent power.
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