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Old 30th April 2007, 01:02   #16
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@nura, SK456 has installed 3-ways in his Santro in the same way you've described. There were pics posted someplace by JKDas, but I can't find them now. (I think there were in l_b_m's "Saga of L-B-M thread).

If you plan on selling the car without the ICE, it would make a lot of sense to get custom door panels done. Since the Santro has straight door panels, MDF will do just fine (fibreglass will not be needed).

Or, you can cut the OE panels, but sell the car with a pair of second hand 6.5" speakers (you can get them when you sell the car) in the provision you've cut. Whichever suits you

Modification of the baffle/provision in the dash may not be needed, as it is not affected by any other driver.
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Old 30th April 2007, 11:10   #17
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Originally Posted by hydrashok View Post
@nura, SK456 has installed 3-ways in his Santro in the same way you've described. There were pics posted someplace by JKDas, but I can't find them now. (I think there were in l_b_m's "Saga of L-B-M thread).
checkout my signature for the thread link.........goto page 6

Last edited by low_bass_makker : 30th April 2007 at 11:13.
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Old 30th April 2007, 12:10   #18
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Or, you can cut the OE panels, but sell the car with a pair of second hand 6.5" speakers (you can get them when you sell the car) in the provision you've cut. Whichever suits you
Hi Nura

Re your PM (have been busy, sorry I couldn't answer earlier) and your posts here; I guess most of your questions have been answered.

Re the door panel, ask your friendly neighborhood Hyundai workshop and you may just find out that the stock replacement panel costs as much as a custom mdf panel job will.
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Old 30th April 2007, 12:20   #19
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Re the door panel, ask your friendly neighborhood Hyundai workshop and you may just find out that the stock replacement panel costs as much as a custom mdf panel job will.
I agree here.....no need for new custom panel...the stock one from the service station will be the cheapest option....or if you can do a little of search in the car market for spare shop you can get more cheap there.....
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Old 30th April 2007, 23:34   #20
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Thanks Autophile, Hydrashok, LBM & Gunbir for your wonderful suggestions. I started off by stating that I wanted to go for 1 amp to drive the 3 ways & the sub. Would there be an advantage having 2 amps instead? For example the JBL cs60.4 bridged (160W x 2) driving the 3 ways & the JBL GTO301.1 driving the D4 sub (294W x 1 at 2 ohms) will together cost about 22K. I am trying to get the power up & the cost low but if I'm going completely off my rocker don't hesitate to say so.
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Old 1st May 2007, 08:32   #21
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nura, I'd start with just the 75.4 (powering the fronts & sub) and see how things go. You can always add another amp later (make sure your power wires are chosen with this in mind) if you want to. And, if you go this way, after the upgrade, you would have a better speaker amp than the CS60.4 in your car, and you could get a more powerful sub-amp (more powerful than the 301.1) later if you want to. And you would have no post-install cash-flow issues now

If right now, budget is not a constraint, two amps would be better. The fronts and the sub would get the power they deserve. But then this would push the amp budget up by 10K plus (additional cost of Distri Block and some extra wiring also now) immediately, right? Do you really want to spend that much now?
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Old 1st May 2007, 12:59   #22
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The 75.4 now & something better than the 301.1 later? Would that be the 601.1? Total cost of 75.4 & 601.1 is just a little more than SRx3 but as you rightly pointed out I can get just the 75.4 now & the D-class amp later. Is the SRx an A/B-class amp or A/B-class for fronts & D-class for sub, if there can be such a thing? How would the 75.4 + 601.1 perform compared to the SRx3?
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Old 1st May 2007, 13:14   #23
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The 75.4 now & something better than the 301.1 later? Would that be the 601.1? Total cost of 75.4 & 601.1 is just a little more than SRx3 but as you rightly pointed out I can get just the 75.4 now & the D-class amp later. Is the SRx an A/B-class amp or A/B-class for fronts & D-class for sub, if there can be such a thing? How would the 75.4 + 601.1 perform compared to the SRx3?
if you get the 75.4 + 601.1 against the Srx3.....then the JBL combo would be more louder and clear than the audison at high volumes.....but at moderate and lower volumes audison will be cleaner also.....

also the jbl sounds a little bright and straight forward.....but the audison is a bit layerback.......so I would suggest try to listen to both of them before buying......
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Old 1st May 2007, 13:39   #24
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Very nicely explained LBM. Thanks. A request to BHPians from Kolkata who have similar set-ups, can I have a listen?
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Old 1st May 2007, 14:06   #25
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also the jbl sounds a little bright and straight forward.....but the audison is a bit layerback.......so I would suggest try to listen to both of them before buying......
I meant.............Laid back
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Old 1st May 2007, 18:52   #26
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The Audison SRx3 is Class AB amplifier. The choice in between the two amplifiers is purely the listening taste. I don't think power matters that much.
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Old 1st May 2007, 21:16   #27
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You're right. The SRx3 certainly pumps out a lot of power to the sub. It can even drive a sub of 2 ohm impedance, which most AB-class amps can't do in bridged mode. If only I could hear the 2 amps.
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Old 4th May 2007, 16:42   #28
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@Autophile/ Gunbir - If I wanted to go for a 2-channel amp to drive the 3-ways & a separate monobloc for the IDQ sub, what would you recommend - the SRx2S & the LRx1.400? How are they priced? Thanks.
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Old 4th May 2007, 17:37   #29
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@nura, the SRx2S is just made for those 3-ways But it is a bit expensive for a 2-ch amp. It runs to about 28K (as against about 25K for the SRx4 -- 4 ch amp).

The LRx1.4 will be a bit of overkill and quite a bit expensive at about 35K. You can probably get the SRx1 at about 25K, and run a dual 4ohm IDQ (IDQD4 V3) wired for 2 ohms, thereby giving it 350w RMS.

The advantage of the LRx1.4 is that you buy can a dual 2 ohms IDQ now and run it at 4 ohms/350w RMS; Then, later you can add another dual 2 ohms IDQ and run the two dual 2 ohm IDQs wired for 1 ohm, giving them 450w RMS each.

Between an SRx2S + SRx1 combo and an SRx3, maybe the SRx3 will be a lesser costly investment. But the SRx2S + SRx1 combo will really rock your socks off in comparison.

Or, get an SRx4 now, and run the fronts & the IDQ from it (the sub will not get what it deserves), and later get a monoblock, then bridge the SRx4 to 2 ch and drive the 3-ways.

My 2 bits. JB and Gunbir will have better ideas

Last edited by hydrashok : 4th May 2007 at 17:39.
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Old 4th May 2007, 18:34   #30
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hydra that was such a mind twister...how do you do it....lol........
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