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Old 29th April 2007, 00:15   #46
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Zakko, just sent the pics. Check yer Gmail Nice to know you got to see the car and listen to it a bit before it left. At least that for 2 day's work.

I'd like to add that the amprack was covered with rexine that blended purrrfectly with the vehicle's upholstery. I saw Zuheimi measuring the amprack yesterday and test fitting the wood on the car. Else I'd have thought the amprack came with the car, just like Zak said. I dunno where he (the installer) gets all this stuff from.
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Old 29th April 2007, 09:36   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
60hz would be quite low for the components IMHO....they should be done near 80 hz or near.......
In a bigger car especially SUV's the midbass and sub integration gets better if you lower the midbass HPF and run the system with a little overlap between mids and subwoofer.

So dropping the midbass HPF below 80Hz is better than raising the subwoofer's LPF above 80Hz (which will lead to localisation of the subwoofer). Ideally it should be around 65-70Hz.

The crossover point is also dependent on the music preference and of course the power available.

Last edited by Autophile : 29th April 2007 at 09:38.
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Old 29th April 2007, 09:48   #48
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Hey Zak, how much did the entire system cost him ? or is it mentioned earlier ?
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Old 30th April 2007, 09:58   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autophile View Post
So dropping the midbass HPF below 80Hz is better than raising the subwoofer's LPF above 80Hz (which will lead to localisation of the subwoofer).

Ideally it should be around 65-70Hz..
Use the first statement only. It is as correct as you would need it.

JB, stop messing with newbie minds here. Ideally "IT" should be 63.2756Hz! :-)
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Old 30th April 2007, 10:14   #50
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I like to be specific with values. That explains better. I am not messing any newbie minds, my answer was with a quote from LBM's post so it was not generic

Last edited by Autophile : 30th April 2007 at 10:18.
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Old 30th April 2007, 11:01   #51
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I would say the crossover points should be depending firstly the music and the car cabin size, location of drivers.....for the required cutoff freq point I would say practical listing after the install should be required.......

If the midbass cutoff is reduced.....then there will be some peaks around the 60-80 range as both the sub and midrange will be producing the same thing....or the bigger cabin will compensate for that....
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Old 30th April 2007, 11:23   #52
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Nice to know these things about crossover settings.
Makes a good read while I wait for the final set of pictures.
Hydra's phone pics weren't that great to be posted here (get a small cheapo digicam man!).
Will get the pics from Emperor today and post it up as soon as I can. No, no promises. And no imitation of KB here.
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Old 30th April 2007, 11:41   #53
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Quote:
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Hydra's phone pics weren't that great to be posted here (get a small cheapo digicam man!).
No way! Not when that money can be used someplace else (hint, hint!!!)
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Old 30th April 2007, 13:46   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
If the midbass cutoff is reduced.....then there will be some peaks around the 60-80 range as both the sub and midrange will be producing the same thing....or the bigger cabin will compensate for that....
Sadly the car envrioment is a tough one. Esp in this region since road noise rears it's ugly head.

What Autophile said earlier is just about as correct as one can get (the rest one has to tune by ear) LPF the woofer 80Hz. HPF the midbass at 60Hz and the bit of the over lap works (more so for cars like the CRV and Octavia) well.

What I like to do is to use my amps to protect the midbass and to ensure that the subs are not producing too much mids. So I set the XOs in the amps on at 30Hz (HPF) and 160Hz (my amp's XO is 2nd order). Then I use my HU to fine tne the filtering. The reason for this is everytime my car goes for service they have disconnected my battery and all the HU settigs are gone.

Since I dont drive often it happens that one day I sit to drive and I see my midbases distorting with too much LF information etc..

Using the XO points I use on my amps is fine since my HU is set to about 1 octave higher/lower than the amps. This topology has been used extensively in Home audio to (a) keep phase response in the XO region linear while (b) offering protection and some degree of filtering.
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Old 1st May 2007, 17:53   #55
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Talking Some more pics I gathered.

As soon as the install was fini, the car was taken to Bangalore on a holiday trip and I couldn't manage to get any snaps.
I gathered some snaps from Emperor today.


The ID V3 sitting in a very small .85Cu ft box.


The Alpine D100E HU. That's the cheapest in dash unit from Alpine. And it costs a bomb.


this is how the boot looked after putting in the amps. The sub was yet to be placed in a proper location. It was kept later behind the 3rd row seats (seat is currently hidden under the sub). Wire was concealed too.

A neat setup overall with some bling bling.

More pictures will be posted when the monster returns this week for some more touch up works like a sub grill etc...
See ya all till then.

Mods may lock this thread until then.
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Old 1st May 2007, 18:01   #56
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nice clean setup.............
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Old 8th May 2007, 21:49   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autophile View Post

So dropping the midbass HPF below 80Hz is better than raising the subwoofer's LPF above 80Hz (which will lead to localization of the subwoofer). Ideally it should be around 65-70Hz.
hi jb,

it would be great if you could explain what localization of the sub means. does it mean that you can detect from where the sub bass is coming?
correct me if im wrong.

cheers

clip
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Old 8th May 2007, 23:06   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clipto333 View Post
hi jb,

it would be great if you could explain what localization of the sub means. does it mean that you can detect from where the sub bass is coming?
correct me if im wrong.

cheers

clip
yes you are right..........
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