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Old 21st June 2007, 15:35   #61
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you can pull it and see to it what is underneath that area....moslty there must be some wires for the RVM....but remove and check before proceeding.
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Old 21st June 2007, 15:55   #62
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Santosh, just grab the black part nearer to the window at the bottom end and yank it out. Its just some press on clips holding it. Will do no damage.
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Old 21st June 2007, 16:01   #63
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Santosh, just grab the black part nearer to the window at the bottom end and yank it out. Its just some press on clips holding it. Will do no damage.
No need to yank it out a little pull will let it go..nothing will get damage in this process and it can refitted easily.
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Old 21st June 2007, 16:31   #64
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OK... now I got some courage to pull it out! will see.
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Old 21st June 2007, 17:04   #65
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LBM, I was trying to encourage santosh to go ahead with the DIY and get the cover off. What I meant is even if you yank it out nothing will happen (talking from personal experience). Was just giving him some encouragement yaar.
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Old 25th June 2007, 08:54   #66
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Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi View Post
Raghu, it is refreshing to see someone that does not like highs so much. This is precisely why your head unit has a treble control. Go minus if you like, my friend,

But install the tweeters.
I will definitely get that done, even though I could not do it the last weekend when I was in Mysore. As I already mentioned, I'd like to respect the guru's advice!

My Alpine 9856 has Bass controls from -10 to +10 and Treble from -7 to +7, maybe the absence of tweeters are forcing me to keep the treble at +5 even though Bass at +1 (Sub +5) at a volume of 8 is doing a perfect job. Now I know what you mean.

Thank you so Sam, for taking interest in replying and making me realize what I was (am, rather) missing.

I know this part is a little out of topic, but I'd like to ask you if there is considerable difference between GTO75.4 and CS60.4. I have GTO937's in my 800 running off the Pio 5850 HU, which I am planning to upgrade. I am really not too keen on spending much on the 800 install and hence have decided to put a CS60.4, a pair of GTO507's in the front door and a GT4-12 with a Bassworx enclosure. If I decide to put a GTO75.4 in my Baleno and shift the CS60.4 to my 800, I'd have to sacrifice the Sub for my 800 (The difference of about 5,000/- ). Do you think it is worth it?
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Old 25th June 2007, 10:56   #67
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I know this part is a little out of topic, but I'd like to ask you if there is considerable difference between GTO75.4 and CS60.4. I have GTO937's in my 800 running off the Pio 5850 HU, which I am planning to upgrade. I am really not too keen on spending much on the 800 install and hence have decided to put a CS60.4, a pair of GTO507's in the front door and a GT4-12 with a Bassworx enclosure. If I decide to put a GTO75.4 in my Baleno and shift the CS60.4 to my 800, I'd have to sacrifice the Sub for my 800 (The difference of about 5,000/- ). Do you think it is worth it?
It is never off-topic till it is ICE..

there will be differnce between the 60.4 and 75.4 as the power output of 75.4 is quite good for any setup....whether it is a only speaker application or a woofer the 75.4 does a very good job and keeps its owner satisfied.
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Old 25th June 2007, 11:04   #68
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Hi Raghu,

As LBM says, there is a difference between the two, yes. Mainly in terms of power. To drive the components and speakers, it is enough. Even I use a 60.4 to drive my components and speakers in my verna.

In your baleno, you have a 60.4 with a monoblock, a very good combo.

For your maruti 800, if I was you, I'd go ahead with the 60.4, 507 and use it to amplify the 2. FOr the rear, I would not spend too much, as whatever i put, will be run off the HU.
If you option was to buy a 75.4, but skip the sub and stick to 4 speakers, go for the amp and sub and I think you will enjoy that more in a small car like the 800.
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Old 25th June 2007, 12:24   #69
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I was not sure about the depth only (1.5"), but you seem to say that it is sufficient too (provided the space behind happens to be empty!).
Nope! the space behind sail panel is not empty at all... it can take tweeter only if it is half an inch deep or less So, I think I should give up on that idea. Asking again, what are typical depth requirements for tweeters? (I have actually seen a 0.5 surface mounting depth spec, but I am not sure if that is a representative case)

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Raghu, GTO-607C's in the front door are 6-1/2", right? Did you need any cutting or spacers etc. to accommodate them in stock locations?
Raghu, any comments on this? please!
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Old 25th June 2007, 13:33   #70
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Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
It is never off-topic till it is ICE..

there will be differnce between the 60.4 and 75.4 as the power output of 75.4 is quite good for any setup....whether it is a only speaker application or a woofer the 75.4 does a very good job and keeps its owner satisfied.
Thanks a lot LBM, you've been of great help every now and then, fantastic to see an ICE guru like you trying to help us out! I was wondering about the 'off topic' part since I could have put this in 'Ask the gurus' section, but decided to put it here since it was very much dependent on this install.

I understand that the RMS power of 75.4 is more than 60.4, which is 75 and 60 respectively per channel (And hence the names, right?) I was wondering if it would make that much of a difference, like some audible difference!

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Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi View Post
Hi Raghu,

As LBM says, there is a difference between the two, yes. Mainly in terms of power. To drive the components and speakers, it is enough. Even I use a 60.4 to drive my components and speakers in my verna.

In your baleno, you have a 60.4 with a monoblock, a very good combo.
Thank you for clarifying that, I am not going to do any more contemplation about the GTO75.4 vs. CS60.4, I'll keep the 60.4 here and install a 60.4 in the 800 to drive the components and the sub.

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Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi View Post
FOr the rear, I would not spend too much, as whatever i put, will be run off the HU.
I already have a pair of GTO937's, I guess I'll retain them and drive them off the HU. Thanks again!

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Originally Posted by santosh.s View Post

Raghu, any comments on this? please!
First of all, sorry Santosh, I was off to Mysore for a while when I could not check the posts, today, I wanted to reply but I somehow forgot with so many posts.

Coming to your question, there was no modification required, it fit pretty easy and there was no issue at all. Thanks.

PS: I bought this pre-owned Baleno from True Value (There was no stock, remember?) So I am not sure if my previous owner had a pair of 6+ inchers installed and hence a comfortable slot. But my installer always thought the 607's would fit easily without even thinking about it, so it shouldn't be difficult even if there is a minute cutting required. I'll leave this part to the gurus!
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Old 25th June 2007, 13:56   #71
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First of all, sorry Santosh, I was off to Mysore for a while when I could not check the posts, today, I wanted to reply but I somehow forgot with so many posts.
That is okay man, I don't think you ever owed me a "sorry"

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But my installer always thought the 607's would fit easily without even thinking about it
So, now I can stop thinking about fitting part... will go ahead and get any 6.5" inchers that I may like!
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Old 25th June 2007, 14:01   #72
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So, now I can stop thinking about fitting part... will go ahead and get any 6.5" inchers that I may like!
Exactly, in my opinion 507's are a compromise when you have those big slots in the Baleno! Cheers!
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Old 3rd July 2007, 21:28   #73
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hi. would like to know the importance of crossovers. did you get them with the speakers? i mean what is their actual use? i havent installed any on my 6" X 9" s
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Old 13th August 2007, 14:22   #74
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Firstly, sorry to revive this old thread.

I finally found some time to go to Mysore and get the ICE intact. I thought posting the pictures would not be a bad idea and hence this post.

The sound stage upfront has improved immensely; more than anything else, I am very very happy with the higher mids that these tweeters produce, they've really brought some charm into the setup.

The HU setting of treble used to be around +4 or +5 and it has dropped now to -2 or -3 and very rarely touches 0

The quality of treble is pretty good according to me, does not produce those harsh 3k - 10k frequencies too loud.

Here is the 'butter' in the 'butter chicken':





Sam bhai, as per your advice, I got the crossovers close to the speakers in the dash behind the HU. It really reduced the clutter on the amp board. In fact, it saved me some money since I don't need that covering that I was considering

Here's a look at it:



Thanks to everyone who made this setup better in any way, whether looks, performance or both. Another happy TBHP ICE owner
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Old 13th August 2007, 14:48   #75
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Originally Posted by ullal_h View Post
hi. would like to know the importance of crossovers. did you get them with the speakers? i mean what is their actual use? i havent installed any on my 6" X 9" s
I seem to haver missed your question altogether. You are obviously referring to passive crossovers which are connected to speakers.

Crossovers are like traffic policemen. They take the mixed traffic and guide the right cars into the right lane. The crossover sends the lows and the mids to the woofer and the highs to the tweeter.
Every speaker that has more than 1 way, has a crossover. It could be as simple as a condensor in series or a multitude of inductors, resistors and condensors in a circuit. You will not need to ADD one to your 6X9, it's already there, inside. A simple crossover.

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Another happy TBHP ICE owner
And that's all the thanks we need raghu
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