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Old 13th August 2007, 21:46   #106
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Originally Posted by gunbir View Post
So the system is fired up...













And thats that. Well, there are a couple of future expansions planned... so stay tuned...

Enjoy!!!
I i too own the same system, could you please let me know how to install the tachometer settings. What do we need to add to control.. I have installed this is in my SWIFT .. A small car with powerful system :-)
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Old 13th August 2007, 23:32   #107
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Originally Posted by rocksterraghu View Post
I would like to know why the screw mounting looks like this: I know the entire install was done very very professionally and I am just curious whether this is common with custom spacer rings at times. The screws look inclined and it looks like the components do not have enough space for the screws.
Actually Raghu, constructive criticism is always welcome. The fact is that the SEAS Ref midbass was designed as a 7" midbass. Due to the fact that the midbass wouldn't fit stock locations, the folks at SEAS (Scandinavian Electro Acoustic Systems, Norway) shaved off part of the flange (and we ordered these). So if you use countersunk type self tapping screws they tend to look like their are angled. Thats all.
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Old 14th August 2007, 00:10   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
I agree to you Raghu.

Here is a pic of Midbass installed in my car. I use allen bolt of 2.5 inch length with nut not just self tapping screws which get loose after some time.
Wow what an innovation LBM "Allen head bolts & nuts". How did you manage to tight the nuts behind the midbass.

Morever proper self tapping screws will never get loose. I have experience of more than 10 years using self tapping screws and have never experienced a self tapping screw getting loose on its own.
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Old 14th August 2007, 10:05   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autophile View Post
Wow what an innovation LBM "Allen head bolts & nuts". How did you manage to tight the nuts behind the midbass..
the midbass is mounted on a spacer.
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Old 14th August 2007, 10:30   #110
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I have used a spanner it looks like this..



or you can use a socket which looks like this..


along with the handle...


and hold the nut from behind and tighten the allen bolt with this..



It is a very simple task..If have trouble doing it come down to FBD I will show you how it is done.

I agree that self tapping screw are a good but till the place holding them is good. As when tighten in a wood I dont see them hold for long. As I tighten the subs self tighting screw quite often which get loose due to normal usage.
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Old 14th August 2007, 10:33   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
the midbass is mounted on a spacer.
Navin Ji I could not get you here....
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Old 14th August 2007, 10:33   #112
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Hahahahaha......that was a good one LBM!!
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Old 14th August 2007, 10:37   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
Navin Ji I could not get you here....
Probably Navinji meant you have screw bolted the midbass on the spacer and then mounted the spacer on the door panel using normal screws.
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Old 14th August 2007, 10:43   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
the midbass is mounted on a spacer.
This would be fine, if the midbass was mounted on the spacer and then the spacer was screwed onto the door panel, but navin, LBM says that his allen bolts and nuts are mounted through the door metal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post


After that the allen bolts are used which is passed through the midbass then the wooden ring and finally the door metal frame. when these 4 bolts are tighten they firmly hold the midbass in place and any vibration can allow the speaker to vibrate..
I think LBM, (silly boy mastikhor, posting pictures of spanners) what is being asked here is, how did you get hold of the nut behind the speaker, if it goes through the metal.

By your explanation, it seems that the spacer is mounted first, on the door and then the speaker is bolted on. How would you access the nut on the rear, of the (for example) lowermost corner allen bolt?

Last edited by Sam Kapasi : 14th August 2007 at 10:44.
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Old 14th August 2007, 10:57   #115
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Absolutely right Sam thats what I have asked him. Thanks for simplifying the question for him.

Don't try and teach me with pics of spanners, rachets and allen keys etc. Try and concentrate in answering the question properly which is asked to you. If you cannot, come to Delhi I will teach you how to read and understand English.

Last edited by Autophile : 14th August 2007 at 11:05.
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Old 14th August 2007, 11:05   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi View Post
how did you get hold of the nut behind the speaker
Since these are DLS, I think Sam is refering to either David (Dawid) Koniarski or Mats Andersen. :-)

I believe Mats is the techie (he was chief techie at QLN) and David manages sales. Atleast at the shows you usually end up talking to David.
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Old 14th August 2007, 11:09   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autophile View Post
If you cannot, come to Delhi I will teach you how to read and understand English.
Chill JB!
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Old 14th August 2007, 11:15   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi View Post
By your explanation, it seems that the spacer is mounted first, on the door and then the speaker is bolted on. How would you access the nut on the rear, of the (for example) lowermost corner allen bolt?
Sam Bhai there was enough space to hold the nut with the spanner it was not at all difficult. If it was difficult how would I have done it here is a pic which shows there is lot of space...






Quote:
Originally Posted by Autophile View Post
If you cannot, come to Delhi I will teach you how to read and understand English.
How come I have posted nearly 3772 post and the medium used here is English.
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Old 14th August 2007, 13:02   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunbir View Post
Actually Raghu, constructive criticism is always welcome. The fact is that the SEAS Ref midbass was designed as a 7" midbass. Due to the fact that the midbass wouldn't fit stock locations, the folks at SEAS (Scandinavian Electro Acoustic Systems, Norway) shaved off part of the flange (and we ordered these). So if you use countersunk type self tapping screws they tend to look like their are angled. Thats all.
Thanks for that information, Gunbir. I asked that out of curiosity, I know you would have had ten looks before finalizing something. I respect you a lot, just like everyone around here - in fact, I don't qualify to criticize your work.

That 7" midbass and trimming of flange is very interesting, I'll do some reading about that, thanks again!
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Old 14th August 2007, 13:53   #120
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Hey,

LBM that pic was really wacky man. On a serious note you and JB need to chill out man.

This is a fun forum so lets keep it light without getting all touchy and personal.

Viper

Off Topic - LBM you mind doing some googling for me and reply to this thread or anyone who can help out.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/produc...facturers.html

Last edited by viper : 14th August 2007 at 13:55.
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