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Old 9th September 2007, 23:59   #46
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Originally Posted by navin View Post
What I loved most in those pics was the smile in the faces of everyone invloved. In the future you should consider making a custom box for the sub. I believe that integrating the sub to a car (like the dual 8" installed in the CRV) would allow many more people to consider a sub for their cars.

To do this you would need to gain some experience of working with fiberglass (and resin) and also look at MTX's custom sub boxes for ideas.
hi navinji,

finally, im back home. went to chandigarh yesterday.
yes, we were smiling throughout. :-)

i am going to try my hands on fiber glass. the problem is the raw material is not available in jalandhar. i might have to make a trip to delhi or mumbai. im thinking mumbai as i have only been once when i was a kid to mumbai. and the only thing i remember about bombay was a few copters flying above the sea and automatic doors in a store lol.

we have many manufacturers of bus bodies here and the use FG for the body panels. dont if it is the same thing. i will go, check it out tomorrow.

cheers
clip



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Originally Posted by ScarySkulls View Post
Thy shall NOT speak the code word, or thy wont get the custom enclosure from me for your system.
You have been warned.

@Gill-> Patience my friend. It's not even 1 week since the install. Adding a monoblock will mean New wiring. RCA, installation problems, boot space lost.

Run the system as it is with a simple workaround.
Reduce gains proportionally for both front and rear channels.
You now need to turn up the HU volume more for the same level of sound from the front components and the Sub.
This in turn increases the sound of the co-axials and thus, lessens the gap of front and rear volume.

You can try this for today. If you dont like, revert back.
hi,

i dont think this will be a good work aorund as the HU wont be able to provide clean power at high volume levels so the speakers will distort due to being under powered.

i have the same problem. i only have a 4ch amp and my wife fights with me cause she wants all the speakers to have same loudness. she likes surround sound. and im going to get an amp for her soon(she has asked for it lol)

i would sugest to buy an amp or power both fr and rr on 2 ch for a 4 ohm load and wire a switch for the rears. this will not affect the sq much. 140w for 2 pairs a good enough i guess.

cheers
clip
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Old 10th September 2007, 00:24   #47
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Default Gap at low volumes!!

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Originally Posted by clipto333 View Post
i would sugest to buy an amp or power both fr and rr on 2 ch for a 4 ohm load and wire a switch for the rears. this will not affect the sq much. 140w for 2 pairs a good enough i guess.
Hi rishab,
i went through he sites about parallel wiring,speaker impedence matters to an extent,all of the current speakers are having 4 ohms impedence.
Won't it matter when we will be powering them on a 2ohms load,
Secondly won't it over burden the amp?? as i read it might reduce the working life of an amp.
Rishaab i listened to music today on low volumes,one can sense a clear gap in sound through out he car. when one is having the sound at 22-26 level in hu,then the front stage n sub takes the control,but one can not listen at that volume all the time.
at lower volumesrears are not giving out what are they capable off!!
I rear are just fillers when i think there was no fun in spending 5700/ on them .
How should we go about it!!
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Old 10th September 2007, 11:03   #48
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Originally Posted by clipto333 View Post


i would sugest to buy an amp or power both fr and rr on 2 ch for a 4 ohm load and wire a switch for the rears. this will not affect the sq much. 140w for 2 pairs a good enough i guess.

cheers
clip
this guy is crazy. paralelling two 4ohm speaker will result in a 2 ohm load.

cheers
clip
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Old 10th September 2007, 11:12   #49
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Originally Posted by clipto333 View Post
the problem is the raw material is not available in jalandhar. i might have to make a trip to delhi or mumbai.
Not entirely true.
There are a few places were you can get. Few guys who can do it for you.
Maybe you know someone already. Hint: Red Swift.
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Old 10th September 2007, 11:41   #50
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Not entirely true.
There are a few places were you can get. Few guys who can do it for you.
Maybe you know someone already. Hint: Red Swift.
oh yes. archer dyal. lol you have is contact info? im gonna give him a call.

had his number but my little communicator wanted to bathe with me in the tub while i was using the net and it conked off. lol

cheers
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Old 10th September 2007, 13:34   #51
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Originally Posted by clipto333 View Post
this guy is crazy. paralelling two 4ohm speaker will result in a 2 ohm load.

cheers
clip
What was that???FG work, if you guys can work on this,then hardly there is any looking back!!
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Old 10th September 2007, 14:59   #52
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I am sure you guys can get the FG work done too. Nothing to it really. Just get your hands dirty a few times and you will get the hang of it.
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Old 10th September 2007, 19:22   #53
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I am sure you guys can get the FG work done too. Nothing to it really. Just get your hands dirty a few times and you will get the hang of it.
yes gunman. im gonna try my hand on FG soon. ill start small so that i have the hang of it.

can a fiberG enclosure be built in a door? i want to build a FG enclosure for my midbass dirvers. i think the door has some room near the midbass as the winding assemble doesn't come down to that point. i heard a blau midbass in an enclosure sometimes back and it had great punch.

IMO the driver would be fine in a 7-10 litre enclosure.

what do you recommend?

cheers
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Old 12th September 2007, 22:06   #54
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Default Thinking for an Upgrade!

I am planning for an upgrade:-
HU and AMP

HU:- I am planning for kenwood Excelon x491(It's a US model),i wil be getting it from there.
Rishab n Rajat what's ur say on this??Rishab the current hu Kenwood MP4036 distorts at 26 voulme level max is 34,this time around i would love to have the setup bit louder,,

AMP:- Thinking of powering the fronts(ESK 165) and rears(ECX 165) with 75.4, Rear ECX 165 have 70W RMS where as 75.4 drains out 104W RMS in a channel,Is it ok to go ahead,will it affect (The diffence in power handling and power channelised into them)

SUB ID 10" V3:- should i go for Mono or 2 channel in a bridged mode?
ID 10" power rating 100-300w RMS MAX 500 W.So which AMP should i go for,AMP will be bought from US so we can look for wider options!!Budget:-I am looking for a decent AMP for sub!

What is the differnce between a mono amp and a class d mono amp??

Cheers!!
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Old 13th September 2007, 00:32   #55
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Default Amp 12v

Friends,

Any idea about the amp for ID 10" which gives output @ 12V,pref Alpine!!
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Old 13th September 2007, 11:17   #56
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Gill, Upgrade time?? Well, You are bitten by the ICE bug! ;-)

no problems with 75.4 powering the rear (more headroom you see!)

Powering the sub off a mono appeals to me, instead of using a AB in bridged mode. Since U'll be getting stuff from US, you may find good deals on the Alpine. Go for it. I've heard Alpine + ID (not 10" but 12" in a ported box)...dhik chik dhik chik.
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Old 13th September 2007, 11:28   #57
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Originally Posted by Gill View Post
Friends,

Any idea about the amp for ID 10" which gives output @ 12V,pref Alpine!!
Gt-trading - Attività

gives 250 x 1 at 4 ohms at 11 volts.



Gt-trading - Attività

gives 400 x 1 at 4 ohms at 11 volts
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Old 13th September 2007, 11:36   #58
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LBM bhai, piase bhi bata do! ;-)
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Old 13th September 2007, 12:12   #59
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LBM bhai, piase bhi bata do! ;-)
25k for 75.2 and 34k for 120.2
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Old 13th September 2007, 12:13   #60
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LBM bai ji Steg will be out of budget,wish i could afford them :-( ,
What about other mono's? Alpine have few V12 models!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
Gt-trading - Attività

gives 250 x 1 at 4 ohms at 11 volts.



Gt-trading - Attività

gives 400 x 1 at 4 ohms at 11 volts
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