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Old 12th November 2007, 23:55   #16
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Yellow tops are notorious for dying , they are no good for car audio applications, I have had 4 bats die till date, so have stopped suggesting them to people, my cousin's battery died and he has not yet got a replacement.
Another thing to add to this, I have been running on a Stinger SP1000 Battery for the last 1.5 Years and it has been running rock solid, no problems yet and I have a lot of load on it with the system and Neons all around.

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what is the gauge of wire from the alternator to the battery?
@ Raghu, this is another thing that can change the way things are. It is not necessary that your car battery has to give up with the music system you are running. There are a lot of cars with such systems today, and not all bats fail.
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Old 13th November 2007, 00:00   #17
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Raghu try this. Get a multimeter and connect it to the cigarette lighter socket. observe the voltages. What do you get normally. Now don't play your ICE for one day(atleast 2-3 hrs) and see that is there any rise in voltage.

Do post all your reading.

For the optima they are **** batteries and I did not got any replacement also. Instead I got three batteries after having a fight with the dealer.

I continuously monitor my car voltage through the voltage monitor it helps a lot when some time I turn to the dark side (SPL) as dips will bound to happen. Also I have not seen a single car install which has amps and there is no dip in voltage even playing at moderate levels otherwise if there is no dip then it is not normal !!!

Last edited by low_bass_makker : 13th November 2007 at 00:04.
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Old 16th November 2007, 03:02   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
what is the gauge of wire from the alternator to the battery?
I guess they're stock wires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueraven316 View Post
@ Raghu, this is another thing that can change the way things are. It is not necessary that your car battery has to give up with the music system you are running. There are a lot of cars with such systems today, and not all bats fail.
Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
Raghu try this. Get a multimeter and connect it to the cigarette lighter socket. observe the voltages. What do you get normally. Now don't play your ICE for one day(atleast 2-3 hrs) and see that is there any rise in voltage.

Do post all your reading.

For the optima they are **** batteries and I did not got any replacement also. Instead I got three batteries after having a fight with the dealer.

I continuously monitor my car voltage through the voltage monitor it helps a lot when some time I turn to the dark side (SPL) as dips will bound to happen. Also I have not seen a single car install which has amps and there is no dip in voltage even playing at moderate levels otherwise if there is no dip then it is not normal !!!
Thanks Blueraven and LBM.

I am in Hyderabad now and will be back in KK very soon. I'll post the details very soon.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed. I really appreciate it.

Last edited by rocksterraghu : 16th November 2007 at 03:06.
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Old 16th November 2007, 10:50   #19
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Originally Posted by rocksterraghu View Post
I guess they're stock wires.
why not upgrade this wire, it is short and any good ISI brand wire will do.
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Old 16th November 2007, 12:43   #20
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What is the alternator rating. For example the indica alternator is 90A.
If your consumption goes higher than that you will have problems. No other solution except get a bigger spec alternator.

At idling speed with AC and headlights on, a good alternator will give around 13V to the battery terminals. If you are falling below this, its a problem.
If this test passes, switch on the stereo system too and see the voltage at the battery terminals. If it falls below 12.8 it means your alternator is unable to charge the battery at idle.
If your battery is the issue get a higher spec battery which will give you longer playing time at idle. For example stock batteries in diesels are 55Ah, I got a amaron 65Ah and am very happy with it.
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Old 8th January 2008, 00:10   #21
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Finally! Finally found time to get this fixed.

I got the alternator checked and it was supplying 14+ at about 1000 rpm.
Decided not to fiddle with it.

The culprit was the battery. Got a replacement for it and everything is back to normal. Hurray! The ICE sounds (especially the sub) much better and I am thrilled.

Thanks everyone for your time and effort, I really appreciate it.

Cheers!
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