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Old 5th December 2007, 01:03   #31
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Originally Posted by amit_sound View Post

1) Damping: He says 15K which covers 4 doors + roof + floor of the car. 15k is including the labour charges. How does it sound? Good?
And boot, right?

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2) Again 15K for some new performance battery. Though he forgot the brand name, but will let me know later.
He forgot?
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Old 5th December 2007, 01:22   #32
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Boot is already damped....so not including the boot at the moment.

Ya he could not recall what battery he had.
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Old 5th December 2007, 04:23   #33
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amit, I saw the amp today @ weiders here. It was driving 3 MTX 7502 subs. CCCCRAAAZZZYYYY SPL. But sadly, I think it's next to impossible to get it carried to India unless paying duty/bribes. Its Huge!!
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Old 5th December 2007, 06:21   #34
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battery try stinger . they have very good models at competitive prices.
I knew a guy in santa cruz, Nash he had this and a lot of RF gear as well.
Also the size is small so it can fit in pretty well too
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Old 5th December 2007, 11:04   #35
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I have tried batteries from fancy brands. Have suffered with Optima, Lightning Audio.

I think you should keep your money and buy the best available battery from Amaron or Bosch.
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Old 5th December 2007, 11:10   #36
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Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi View Post
I have tried batteries from fancy brands. Have suffered with Optima, Lightning Audio.

I think you should keep your money and buy the best available battery from Amaron or Bosch.
Optima and LA indeed SU#K! I had burnt my fingers twice with Optima Yellow tops, they are just not meant for Car Audio applications, however, my experience with a Stinger battery has been very satisfying, my car has some heavy audio and lots of lights and neons. The battery has been running for last 1.5 years without a hitch and I have a tendency of playing loud, and music plays all the time in the car.
It's a Stinger SP1000 battery.
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Old 5th December 2007, 11:22   #37
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4) Caps: Not intrested in the cap.
any specific reason for this?
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Old 5th December 2007, 11:29   #38
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any specific reason for this?
They don't make any difference in IMHO. Rest if you have money you can install it. Looks good, and lots of people ask what is it ??
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Old 5th December 2007, 11:43   #39
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but technically speaking..

when you've got bass heavy tracks.. your amp draws more current, now due to that, voltage drops (which is clearly noticable by the dimming of your lights..)

won't the amp underperform due to drop in voltage?

as far as my understanding goes, the capacitor stores charge and compensates for the extra current draw demanded by the amp.

so in effect you get better bass.. and there is no loss..

I havent ever used a capacitor before or seen the actual difference myself.. so please correct me if im wrong with the theory..
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Old 5th December 2007, 11:44   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueraven316 View Post
my experience with a Stinger battery has been very satisfying... It's a Stinger SP1000 battery.
Do you represent Stinger by any chance?
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Old 5th December 2007, 11:53   #41
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I agree to an extent with Sam..I have had at one time 5 amplifiers,1 crossover and of course the usual audio gizmos. 2 amps were alpine class D the digital monoblocks and was running it all in an e-zen on a 55amp Exide battery..while a friend had a good setup in his city and he swore by stinger as he was dissappointed with LA,optima and Amaron.

The main difference between these performance audio batteries and regular batteries is that for the same size and ampere it lasts longer so if the car is not turned on/running/idling it would last longer but today if you are looking at that audio setup I really dont think you would be interested in listening to high decibels while the car is switched off.
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Old 5th December 2007, 12:06   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shrivz View Post
but technically speaking..

when you've got bass heavy tracks.. your amp draws more current, now due to that, voltage drops (which is clearly noticable by the dimming of your lights..)

won't the amp underperform due to drop in voltage?

as far as my understanding goes, the capacitor stores charge and compensates for the extra current draw demanded by the amp.

so in effect you get better bass.. and there is no loss..

I havent ever used a capacitor before or seen the actual difference myself.. so please correct me if im wrong with the theory..
Sir your theory is correct but the time to discharge a cap is just few milli second, but charges very fast. What will happen when a SPL vehicle is playing a sine wave to extract the best of the what his setup can do the cap would have been discharged in the very first second and would instead putting extra load on the setup by taking out some current to get it charged. So Cap in my IMHO is like bling stuff not for real use.
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Old 5th December 2007, 12:09   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shrivz View Post
but technically speaking..

when you've got bass heavy tracks.. your amp draws more current, now due to that, voltage drops (which is clearly noticable by the dimming of your lights..)

won't the amp underperform due to drop in voltage?

as far as my understanding goes, the capacitor stores charge and compensates for the extra current draw demanded by the amp.

so in effect you get better bass.. and there is no loss..

I havent ever used a capacitor before or seen the actual difference myself.. so please correct me if im wrong with the theory..
and what happens when there is a long bass note? i have seen cars with caps installed and lights still dimming. its better to spend on a good power cable than on a cap. i have experienced how much difference a cable can make. my lights dont dim now. im using a 25mm2 cable. earlier it was boss crap. :-)

cheers
clip

sorry lbm, didn't see your reply

Last edited by clipto333 : 5th December 2007 at 12:11.
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Old 5th December 2007, 12:15   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shrivz View Post
but technically speaking..
won't the amp underperform due to drop in voltage?..
You are correct in assuming that a capacitor serves to smooth voltage fluctuations associated with transient demands (suually on the order of 50-100ms) and that the supply voltage presented to the amp during during these passages will be higher with the capacitor. The degree to which the amps's power increases, however, is marginal.

Consider an amp that delivers 100 watts at 14.4v and 80 watts at 12v, in db that difference is negligible. Now add to this that a subwoofer would probabaly be already compressing (due to the limites of it's Xmax at low frequencies) at these power levels and that the human ear ability to perceive differences in intensity for shorter intervals is limited this theoretical increase in power is hardly noticed by your ears.

Yes if the your headlights are dimming significantly a cap might be handy (to keep your headlight levels more stable) but only after the battery, alternator and Big 3 are addressed first.

Last edited by navin : 5th December 2007 at 12:21.
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Old 5th December 2007, 12:20   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi View Post
I think you should keep your money and buy the best available battery from Amaron or Bosch.
Yes those "ding dong" people make good stuff and the Silver stuff from Bosch is what I'd get.
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