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Old 14th February 2008, 13:54   #16
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Originally Posted by nripin View Post
Hi Dinu,
Since yo9u have a decent plans for Subs i'd recommend you put components at te back as well.

You wont need the extra bass from the 6"x9" or the less clarity from coaxials.Stick to Components From JBL esp the new ones running at 2 Ohms thay are a very good punch for the buck you pay
I did not go for components at the rear as I wanted front staging with the rear only used as fills. I have not gone for an oval speaker, but a 6.5" round coax.

A small tragedy. The Blau monobloc from the US turned out to be a damp squib and I put in a JBL GTO 3001 Monoblock instead. Am still in the process of fine tuning the levels et al. Will post pictures once it is done to satisfaction.
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Old 14th February 2008, 16:36   #17
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Originally Posted by dinu2506 View Post
I did not go for components at the rear as I wanted front staging with the rear only used as fills. I have not gone for an oval speaker, but a 6.5" round coax.

A small tragedy. The Blau monobloc from the US turned out to be a damp squib and I put in a JBL GTO 3001 Monoblock instead. Am still in the process of fine tuning the levels et al. Will post pictures once it is done to satisfaction.
I've not Realy mastered the art of adjusting the Freq in the AMPS do u know how to do it the right theories?

I only did the Gain adjusment and Freq stuck to Manf Specs when i tuned My amps .
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Old 15th February 2008, 08:52   #18
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Originally Posted by nripin View Post
I've not Realy mastered the art of adjusting the Freq in the AMPS do u know how to do it the right theories?

I only did the Gain adjusment and Freq stuck to Manf Specs when i tuned My amps .
I would not call myself an expert but I've found that if you clearly understand what is gain, crossover, filters and bass boost, it can really help in adjustment to your personal preference. For eg I am a person who does not use high volumes so I go for a low gain setting in the amp (lower than what the manufacturers specify). This lets me get more voltage output from the HU for the same volume level which greatly improves my s/n ratio. Additionally since my monoblock is driven by the aux out from the 4 channel amp, I get more voltage input into the monoblock because of the low gain setting in the 4 channel amp. This gives me better control on the bass that I really need. I manage to get a good punch even at low volumes since I have set the monoblock at a high gain. I may not get the maximum volume attainable from the amp which is the least I am interested in since I get much better control and quality on the volume range I am comfortable with

Similarly coming to setting the crossover, you should make sure that there is only a small overlap of frequencies between the main speakers and sub. For eg if you set the low pass for the sub at 120 Hz, keep the high pass for the main speakers not less than 100 Hz. This will ensure that the same frequencies are not reproduced by different range of speakers.

Front soundstaging is important for me and I set the gain of the rear channels so that it just makes its presence felt rather than overpower the front components.

These are simple fundamentals that I have picked up along my journey, advices from people like Anwar and some reading from the internet. These are all learnt from hit and trial and I might be way off the accepted practice. Gurus can give their comments and pardon me if I am misleading in any way.
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Old 15th February 2008, 09:55   #19
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So, here are my pictures after the Stage 2 upgrade. I do not have "work in progress" pictures this time, as I had given the car to Anwar at Auto Fusion and picked it up the next day. The final result is something like this (including Stage 1 and Stage 2)

1) Front speakers - JBL GTO607C 6.5" components
2) Rear speakers - Alpine SPS-17C2 6.5" coaxials
3) JBL GT5-604 four channel amplifer for the front and rear speakers
4) JBL GTO3501 monoblock amplifier for the subwoofer
5) JBL GT5-12 subwoofer in a sealed enclosure
6) Subwoofer level controller installed inside the small cavity near the left of the steering wheel

The two amplifiers have been mounted on a MDF plank fixed to the back of the rear seat (hardly any space lost).

Stock look for the HU, front doors. The rear parcel tray has been modified to accomodate the cutout for the hearing the bass and the rear coaxials have been mounted above the stock location. So, the rear parcel tray looks completely different (according to me, cool).

Check out the photos (pardon the poor quality)

1) Stock look for the HU from front (preouts have been taken at the rear)
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/1600/img00276qf1.jpg

2) Stock look of the front doors (inside houses the JBL components with tweeter on top of the dash at the stock
location)
http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/6390/img00275jn1.jpg

3) The two amplifers mounted at the back of the rear seat
http://img106.imageshack.us/img106/749/img00279sg0.jpg

4) The final look of the boot (one amp is hidden by the sub). Sorry for the bad image.
http://img352.imageshack.us/img352/3531/img00277hf0.jpg

5) The subwoofer level controller installed in the dash near the steering wheel
http://img106.imageshack.us/img106/6027/img00274tg9.jpg

6) The Alpine coaxial at the rear
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/4175/img00281gb4.jpg

7) This is how the rear parcel tray looks
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/8351/img00280kr8.jpg

http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/1069/img00273mt7.jpg

Anwar did the basic tuning and was sounding good, I did some final adjustments to suit my personal taste and the end result - "Audio Nirvana". Its sounding heavenly.

Thanks all for your advice, suggestions and support. Special thanks to Anwar (Auto Fusion) for a job well executed.
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Old 15th February 2008, 10:46   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dinu2506 View Post

Similarly coming to setting the crossover, you should make sure that there is only a small overlap of frequencies between the main speakers and sub. For eg if you set the low pass for the sub at 120 Hz, keep the high pass for the main speakers not less than 100 Hz. This will ensure that the same frequencies are not reproduced by different range of speakers.
You are saying LPF the sub at 120 hz and the speakers at 100 hz so both the sub and speaker will be producing 100-120 hz...
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Old 15th February 2008, 10:55   #21
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Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
You are saying LPF the sub at 120 hz and the speakers at 100 hz so both the sub and speaker will be producing 100-120 hz...
What I was meaning is that the overlap should not be more than 20 Hz. Even if you set it exactly at 100Hz and 100Hz for example, there will be an overlap due to the slope.

What I meant is that we should not end up setting the LPF at for eg 150Hz and the HPF at say 75 Hz in which case there will be too much of an overlap that will impact the tonal quality. A 20Hz overlap is fine, anyway we are not using oscilloscopes for setting this only the dials so you actually dont know what the exact setting is.
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Old 15th February 2008, 11:31   #22
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Very neat job done, especially the back tray.
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Old 22nd February 2008, 16:59   #23
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Hey just wanted to ask you about the packing which you have done in your bootlid. I have very bad bootlid noise inside the car when the sub is on.
Is it really sufficient to keep the JBL sub down from blowing of the bootlid.
What materials have you put inside the bootlid. Does it in anyway increase the weight of the bootlid.

Thanks
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Old 22nd February 2008, 17:06   #24
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Guys about Hz. I have always thought that LPF means you need to give a very low frequency and HPF a very high frequency.
I have HPF-125 and LPF-80. That way there is good clarity and bass. That setting i cant understand....
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Old 22nd February 2008, 18:29   #25
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Congrats on JBLfying your civic Dinu Anwars touch must have added some magic as usual.

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Originally Posted by shadyrulez View Post
What materials have you put inside the bootlid. Does it in anyway increase the weight of the bootlid.
It is usualy cottown waste material afaik. Im a little weary of this method and have hence procured a little extra damping sheets to fill the boot/hatch plastic trim.
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Old 22nd February 2008, 21:32   #26
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Originally Posted by shadyrulez View Post
Hey just wanted to ask you about the packing which you have done in your bootlid. I have very bad bootlid noise inside the car when the sub is on.
Is it really sufficient to keep the JBL sub down from blowing of the bootlid.
What materials have you put inside the bootlid. Does it in anyway increase the weight of the bootlid.

Thanks
The packing material was first a layer of thermocole sheet (the black soft one), followed by cotton waste followed by another layer of thermocole and then the finishing using black carpeting material. This is the cheapest option available as I did not have dough for Dynamat etc. Works fine I guess. But yes, the weight has gone up substantially.
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Old 22nd February 2008, 21:34   #27
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Originally Posted by shadyrulez View Post
Guys about Hz. I have always thought that LPF means you need to give a very low frequency and HPF a very high frequency.
I have HPF-125 and LPF-80. That way there is good clarity and bass. That setting i cant understand....
By setting HPF at 125Hz, you are filtering off all frequncies below this and by setting LPF at 80 Hz you are filtering off all frequencies above 80 Hz. So basically you are missing the frequency range from 80 - 125 Hz. Hope this is clear.
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Old 22nd February 2008, 21:35   #28
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[quote=s0uljah;732206]Congrats on JBLfying your civic Dinu Anwars touch must have added some magic as usual.
quote]

yes, Anwars touch very much present.
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Old 22nd February 2008, 22:27   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
You are saying LPF the sub at 120 hz and the speakers at 100 hz so both the sub and speaker will be producing 100-120 hz...
Quote:
Originally Posted by dinu2506 View Post
What I was meaning is that the overlap should not be more than 20 Hz. Even if you set it exactly at 100Hz and 100Hz for example, there will be an overlap due to the slope.

What I meant is that we should not end up setting the LPF at for eg 150Hz and the HPF at say 75 Hz in which case there will be too much of an overlap that will impact the tonal quality.
Dinu.
1. Congrats
2. Dont mind LBM he was only joking
3. adjusting HPF/LPF etc. should be done by ear (it depends on the speaker's characteristics in the HPF/LPF range, the transfer function of the vehicle, the music one listen to and the listener's taste).

The best way to go about it is to first setup your front components to play as loud as you ever would use them and see how low you can cross them before they distort. then bring in the sub so that it's presense is not felt but it's absence is. HU with TA help a lot in this.
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Old 22nd February 2008, 22:47   #30
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Very neat Setup i must say congrats

We need to Meet up some time.

JBL ICE meet lol
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