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Old 22nd June 2009, 00:07   #61
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You are right, AK, the pneumatic/acoustic resistance dissipates the pressure impulses to some extent in them, but not as much as the pneumatic resistance of the pipe maze does in regular ones.

1. Glass wool was the 'original' box damping material, but fell out of favor because of health issues (ever felt itchy when handling GW?). PF is easier to handle than GW but slightly inferior as a resistance. Densely packed coir is an alternative, as also rolls of thin (<5mm) rubberized coir.
2. Yes, driver displacement should be factored in box dimension calculation. It is not much actually - about 0.05-0.07 cft
3. Smaller the box, higher the Fb/F3, tighter the bass, but poorer low end. Larger the box, more boomier the sound, but better low end. Tough choice, but usually the recommended Vb given by sub manufaturer is the most optimum (and the best shortcut to avoid calculating)

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Old 22nd June 2009, 12:45   #62
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that looks liek block board but if used as filler it does not really matter.

you need about 1 lb per cu. f.t . for filler any more will make matters worse
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Old 22nd June 2009, 13:04   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
1. Glass wool was the 'original' box damping material, but fell out of favor because of health issues (ever felt itchy when handling GW?). PF is easier to handle than GW but slightly inferior as a resistance. Densely packed coir is an alternative, as also rolls of thin (<5mm) rubberized coir.
Thanks DerAlte. I will stay clean of polyfill and glass wool. Will look at alternatives.
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3. Smaller the box, higher the Fb/F3, tighter the bass, but poorer low end. Larger the box, more boomier the sound, but better low end. Tough choice, but usually the recommended Vb given by sub manufaturer is the most optimum (and the best shortcut to avoid calculating)
The manual states that 0.85 to 1.25 cubic feet as recommended volume. Present volume is very close to 0.85 cubic feet. And I like it at the lower end of the recommended range.

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you need about 1 lb per cu. f.t . for filler any more will make matters worse
You mean the weight of the block board (or any other material) used as the filler? Eventhough it is stationary? Including the damping material (if any)?

Last edited by akbaree : 22nd June 2009 at 13:11.
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Old 22nd June 2009, 13:47   #64
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No, I think Navin meant 1lb of PF per cft of box volume. Polyfill is OK as a filler, AK, I just mentioned w.r.t. GW.
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Old 22nd June 2009, 17:37   #65
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I am not sure what this means for heat dissipation.
As planned, two DIY ICE lovers were at it all this Saturday starting our day at 11:00 am. I being just a budding DIYer, having Shreyas helped a lot. He is more mature DIYer and has done quite a few hands on projects.

The main agenda was to modify the enclosure so that it is more ventilated. After we reached the carpenter, he dismantled the box while we batted our eye lids.
My long ordeal with my car's ICE-dscn5644.jpg

We gave more thought to carpetting right from the design stage. And as it turned out, every approach has it's own challenges. Carpetting before assembling may not be a good idea after all. The most challenging is to get the edges right.
My long ordeal with my car's ICE-dscn5656.jpg

You can see in the picture below that I broke one of the edges of the top frame.
My long ordeal with my car's ICE-dscn5659.jpg

It may appear creating two vents on the side walls, but let me tell you that I have learned that for any custom job there are lot of parameters that you should consider while designing it. Although we spent the entire Saturday on the job, we couldn't complete it. The lighting and a few things remain pending.

More pictures to follow, once the lighting solution and finishing touches are done.
-----------


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Anant, I forgot man. I have a dremel kit. We can easily remove the rust.

Hey ping me if you going for any wood work. I wanted a pair of 5.25 mdf spacers.
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Yes, use the Dremel with a wire-wheel for cleaning (do hold the screws with a nose plier unless you want to shred your fingertips ). After you put back everything together and wiring it, apply white petroleum jelly ('vaseline') liberally to the terminals.
While we gave instructions to the Carpenter, we also spent time in cleaning the crossover terminals.

Shreyas working his magic with the dremel kit.
My long ordeal with my car's ICE-dscn5651.jpg

We were able to clean the terminals to almost 95%
My long ordeal with my car's ICE-dscn5653.jpg

But as the kit didn't had the wire-wheel, the screws didn't get the magic treatment.
My long ordeal with my car's ICE-dscn5647.jpg

But it's fine as I have now used the most affected screws on the unused terminals provided for bi-amping. An application of the petroluem jelly completed this exercise. I don't know if this could be technically justifiable but the high frequencies have become more expressive after this job. I am yet to take an extended session to talk more details.
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Old 22nd June 2009, 18:24   #66
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Hey...thats me! thats me!

Its good to get the hands dirty. Atleast we learnt a lot.
We will get the Bling and the design perfect very soon friend.
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Old 22nd June 2009, 18:26   #67
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Have you biamped your components.
If not, why don't you try biamping them.
They will be much more loud.
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Old 22nd June 2009, 18:28   #68
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good going shreyas... liked your DIY spirit
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Old 22nd June 2009, 18:39   #69
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GOOOOOOOD job akbaree..



One small question Shreyas, why SO formally dressed for an informal meeting with a fellow bhpian????
My long ordeal with my car's ICE-dscn5644.jpg

PS: I love the cap Shreyas!
Hee hee heee
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Old 22nd June 2009, 18:44   #70
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Shreyas is the one in the previous pic.
The one in green.
This appears to be the carpenter
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Old 22nd June 2009, 18:46   #71
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come on man. dont we know that already??? lol!

just pulling Shreyas' leg ;-)
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Old 22nd June 2009, 18:54   #72
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Man, will post a pic of me while I am doing my FG stuff. I will be more dirty than this. I like the outcome only when i get dirty..the actual satisfaction is when cleaning myself.

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Old 22nd June 2009, 19:23   #73
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Good show, guys. But next time, AK, remember to ask Shreyas to look up for a shaadi.com photo!

Arey yaar, if you didn't have the wire attachment for the screws you could have improvized, na. Take a small tin, put some common sand (maralu) in it along with the screws, put on some latin music and dance along with it, using the tin as one would use maracas. Get with the beat - chhak-chhaka-chhak-digi-chhak-chhaka-chhak - and within a few minutes the screws would be free of any rust!
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Old 22nd June 2009, 19:37   #74
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DA, Man the screws are actually scr*wed badly. I suggested AK to replace instead. But can try your idea till the exact kind of screws are found.

:-D And what will i do with shaadi.com photo?
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Old 23rd June 2009, 09:43   #75
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Look like pretty much standard M4x10 to me, the kind used in contactors (heavy duty relays) or old screw type high-current terminal blocks. Check in gujli, AK, you are bound to find some - they always have a square bent washer to accommodate thick wires.

Sorry, I meant shaadi.com-style relaxed informal pics ('huduga ella kelasa maduttane' type), as opposed to 'stiff' PP photos, for the family album.
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