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Old 3rd August 2009, 01:39   #91
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Liked the design of the amp rack! Enjoy the music, you have got a good set-up mate!
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Old 3rd August 2009, 10:31   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudra Sen View Post
I rarely come to ICE section.
You should come here more often.
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Old 3rd August 2009, 10:40   #93
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Looking good Akbaree. Waiting for an audition .
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Old 3rd August 2009, 11:35   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shreyasma View Post
Wow! I missed this one. Please post a darkness pic with the light on and also a close up of the LED.
You haven't missed anything Shreyas. Only thing I have done is to reverse the LED. The lighting still needs to worked out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by abhinav.gupta88 View Post
Why are you LPFing the sub at 63 and HPFing the mids at 80.
Don't you want to hear the frequency range 63-80.
I used to think similarly. I have 63/80 overlay, 80/80, and 80/63 underlay (my present setting) set in the equalizer presets. The last one sounds best. At each of these you will have to play with the crossover curves as well. Finally it will depend on the driver to quite some extent. And that's why I said in my initial post that one should be aware of the weaknesses (and strengths) of the driver that we are tuning. And when we have more than one driver in the set up, we need to ensure that we tune to each one's strenghts.

Quote:
P.S. The display on the 7100 is much better than that on 7200mkii
Yeah, it has high definition Organic display. I have actually imported my son's picture and set it as a screensaver.

The CD7100 was 200 USD costlier than 7200 MKII. And only better thing it has, is the display. 7200 MKII has more goodies - no internal amp, internal blue tooth and is 200 USD cheaper. But with a dot matrix display.


Quote:
Originally Posted by naughty001 View Post
nope, thats called bi-wiring, not bi-amping...

also in a car the odds of hearing any difference due to bi-wiring gets minimised when the car gets switched on, thus you wont really hear much of a difference, well actually that means a noticeable difference anyway. So IMHO its a bit of a waste of wiring
Thanks for throwing some light on this bi-amping thing. I am still miles away from having a good understanding of it.

I look at it this way - if I connect 4 speakers in parallel from a two channel amp, they will not be just wired but amplified as well.

So I agree that it may not have physical two amplifiers and it may just a wiring waste, but when I run parallel wires from the same amp, it is still bi-amping. I may be wrong though.

Quote:
...
hence when speaker designers actually design crossovers then they get the actual crossover point to be at the -3db point of the drivers but if for example you were using a butterworth filter it would be at the -6db point with a slope of 12db/octave whilst if you used a linkwitz reilly filter it would be at the -12db point with a slope of 24db/octave

...and once you fully understand slopes and how to calculate actual crossover points you can calculate exactly what your low pass and high pass filters should be set at. thats already how passive crossovers work
So true. But butterworth and linkwitz filters are used in passive designs. What if I am doing from the HU? Does it also follows some similar principles?

Only other thing is that when we have multiple drivers, some compromises may be required.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
Aha, so you learnt taking photos in the Far East, looks like! Feet set wide apart, knees bent and bottom lowered - like Chinese / Japanese photographers!!! (Sorry AK, just couldn't resist it!)
Attachment 168542
That is hillarious.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
Broken edge? What broken edge? Looks GREAT, man! Even the seemingly missing piece (bottom left) looks like an artistic touch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gill View Post
Liked the design of the amp rack! Enjoy the music, you have got a good set-up mate!
Quote:
Originally Posted by pranava999 View Post
Looking good Akbaree. Waiting for an audition .
I am glad that you liked the box. Thanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
Must have an audition some day. Great job, AK.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudra Sen View Post
I rarely come to ICE section. But akbaree, what dedication!

I don't understand sound quality and all that but seriously like to see/listen to that setup soon. Let me know if that is possible.
It was really a pleasant surprise to see a comment from Rudra. I should thank everyone for their encouragement. Frankly speaking when I was writing that post, I had thought people will really hate me to bore them so much.

I will only be happy if you would like to have an audition. Please let me know.
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Old 3rd August 2009, 14:57   #95
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So I agree that it may not have physical two amplifiers and it may just a wiring waste, but when I run parallel wires from the same amp, it is still bi-amping. I may be wrong though.
you are definitely wrong, because bi-amping needs the physical extra channels. That is how its accepted throughout the audio world. Just to make things simple for you, here's the definition according to 12volt.com in their glossary

Quote:
"Bi-Amplification - The use of two amplifiers, one for the amplification of lower (bass) frequencies , and the other for higher (midrange and treble) frequencies. The audio signal from the head unit or pre-amplifier is passed through an electronic crossover and divided into two separated signals. These signals are sent to the respective amplifiers and their outputs are sent to the respective speakers.(bass to woofers, midrange and treble to mids and tweeters through the use of passive crossovers) Tri-Amp is the use of three amplifiers in the same manner with the audio signal divided into three separate bands of frequency by the electronic crossover and so on."
that glossary can be found at this link

Mobile Electronics Glossary of Terms and Definitions - Accessory (position) to Azimuth

BTW it is bi-amping also if you consider using two amplifiers between the mids and tweeters but when you also add the subwoofer into the mix there it would be tri-amping - and as you add more amplifiers you could technically term it multi-amping

also with no offence intended an individual cannot change the accepted terminology just because he disagrees with its. this is how its been termed from before i was born (in 1967) so i suppose it will remain like that even after i pass on

Quote:
But butterworth and linkwitz filters are used in passive designs
active would have some orientation too, those types of filters are not restricted to passive crossovers. For example my amps have 24db/octave linkwitz/reilly crossovers.

Quote:
What if I am doing from the HU? Does it also follows some similar principles?
yes, the main differences between pasisve and active being that with active you can adjust the frequencies with a trimpot and with active the filtering occurs before the amplifier in the signal chain hence it restricts each amplifier to only those frequencies that the crossover allows whilst with passive crossovers the amplifier still plays full range with the passive splitting up the frequencies

Quote:
Only other thing is that when we have multiple drivers, some compromises may be required.
agreed however most of those compromises and prinicples still have an explanation based on physics though. You may prefer something that goes against the grain but the manner in which its normally done will still have some basis from science for example Navinji explains that he preffered an overlap instead of an underlap in the particular frequency range we discuss. The simple explanation he offered was that it overcame the road noise when the car was switched on, and if you delve into it deeper you will realise that his particular vehicle may have caused road rumble and exhaust noise in the exact frequency band but out of phase to the audio signal hence it would have needed strengthening, and it may be in a different frequency range in another vehicle for example in my vehicle i need to do as he has done between 100hz and 200hz because i lose midbass in the same circumstances

the thing is everything is not fixed or rigid as he correctly states as well but each different circumstance would still follow logic with an explanation based on science as we know it because you cannot defy the laws of physics
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Old 3rd August 2009, 17:35   #96
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Exactly. For a Bi-amp you need either 2 two channel amps or a 4 channel amp.
For bi-amping a 3 way - you need a total of 6 channels dedicated for the fronts.
Its like an active setup with the limitation of cross over dividing the frequencies and not the HU.
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Old 3rd August 2009, 18:59   #97
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which wouldnt be recommended, since you have one of the best head units money can buy. go all active, and not biamp. the digital crossover in the eclipse is more flexible and of higher quality than hardware crossover
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Old 3rd August 2009, 20:02   #98
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Depends on the Speakers too Frank.
Sometimes , its just alright to bi-amp them than use them in an active setup.
( Personal opinion)
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Old 3rd August 2009, 21:00   #99
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Thank you folks for sharing your thoughts on Bi-amping. It is my personal opinion that definitions are often restrictive and at best indicative. And too much theory has the potential to kill creativity.

And Eclipse is surely one great HU. The only thing I wish it should had, is the ability to go 4 way active like HX-D2. But I am on a passive set up, so doesn't matter.

Last edited by akbaree : 3rd August 2009 at 21:02.
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Old 21st September 2012, 12:05   #100
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So it happens.

I have discovered that my trusty polks have given way. A tweeter has conked off. I am not sure if it can be repaired. Please advise.

I also have another thought. I wanted to do a three way active setup. However this thread and most of the antics here belong to a time when I had no kids. Now I have two. So priorities have changed. But dead speakers is just another excuse to get back at this. I am liking these components:
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-8252-hyb...nt-system.aspx

I am in no mood to spend any more money on equipment. If I do buy these, I will be pairing them with my beloved RF Amp(s). Can I go two way active with these or bi-amping (yes I am still stuck on it) is the only option. These are expensive speakers and my RF Amps, no matter how much I love them, are entry level "Punch" series. So any suggestions are welcome.
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