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Old 14th May 2010, 15:45   #106
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Originally Posted by jkdas View Post
I have a mono under front left and a 4 channel under front right. Will post pix later.
How did you manage to put an amp under the front right, there's a seat beat alarm system located there. Did you remove it?? Pics pls!!
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Old 14th May 2010, 23:10   #107
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The MiX amp kits costs hardly 1,100rs. Real fakes they are.The MTX Sealed Subwoofer Enclosure prices have came down drastically,now it costs just 10,000rs MRP.
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Old 1st June 2010, 08:58   #108
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I thought of having a budget install

Now I have to upgrade coz I find the 608c pretty shrill at high volume. As of today the following are my options ( which I can afford ).

1) DLS C6A
2) Focal Access 165 A1

My issue is

A) I cant audition anything ( I cant find time to travel around & I cant find people who has this at my place)
B) Budget is sadly fixed !
C) My Pioneer 4 channel will stay and will have to power whatever I buy ( 50x4 @ 4 ohm OR 60x4 @ 2ohm).

Taking these into consideration, what can you suggest? I don't hear heavy metal at all and love most other genres. Will be great if unbreak my heard/lady in red/ar rehman/MJ stuff sounds great at high volume.
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Old 1st June 2010, 11:44   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkdas View Post
I thought of having a budget install

Now I have to upgrade coz I find the 608c pretty shrill at high volume.

I'm sure you've already played around with the crossover settings ?

I was told that the GTO 508/608 C play sharper by default, but if you want more natural / warmer sound, you should keep the crossover at -6dB or something... How correct is this ?

How much of this shrill-ness will damping be able to negate ?

Last edited by smsrini : 1st June 2010 at 11:46.
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Old 1st June 2010, 13:16   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smsrini View Post
I'm sure you've already played around with the crossover settings ?

I was told that the GTO 508/608 C play sharper by default, but if you want more natural / warmer sound, you should keep the crossover at -6dB or something... How correct is this ?

How much of this shrill-ness will damping be able to negate ?
The crossover has only setting and I am already using it ( -3db ?)

And its bright ( not shrill) coz of the tweeter.
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Old 1st June 2010, 14:47   #111
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@jkdas
The DLS C6A is a good set for the price. There might not be a noticeable change in the mid-bass but the T20 silk-dome tweeters are smooth. Also, they come with separate cross-over network for the mid-bass and tweeter, so they are bi-amp ready.

Should gel perfectly with the Pioneer providing 50W as the C6A are rated at 60-65W I think.
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Old 1st June 2010, 20:56   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thelord View Post
@jkdas
The DLS C6A is a good set for the price. There might not be a noticeable change in the mid-bass but the T20 silk-dome tweeters are smooth. Also, they come with separate cross-over network for the mid-bass and tweeter, so they are bi-amp ready.

Should gel perfectly with the Pioneer providing 50W as the C6A are rated at 60-65W I think.
Thanks buddy. Isnt the tweeter a bit smaller than 608c's ( ie,less than an inch) and hence wont it need some extra effort to fit in default location ?
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Old 2nd June 2010, 12:23   #113
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That's correct. Though, am quite sure the difference shouldn't be much of a problem for an experienced installer.
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Old 8th June 2010, 20:44   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smsrini View Post
I'm sure you've already played around with the crossover settings ?

I was told that the GTO 508/608 C play sharper by default, but if you want more natural / warmer sound, you should keep the crossover at -6dB or something... How correct is this ?

How much of this shrill-ness will damping be able to negate ?


Someone had enabled DEFEAT !

Enjoy music after a long time today.
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Old 9th June 2010, 10:07   #115
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Got my the upgrade stuff today morn; hand delivered !

Now, confused how I will power it as it comes with separate crossover for tweeters and woofer!
Attached Thumbnails
ICE the Beast-09062010505.jpg  

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Old 9th June 2010, 10:26   #116
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Congrats jkdas! Another one smitten by the DLS sound.
Is this the C6A set?

If you got spare channels on the amp, then bi-amping is the best way to go.
Otherwise, you can just bi-wire the set. i.e. connect the output from the amp to the mid-bass cross over input and connect it with the tweeter cross over input using normal speaker wire.
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Old 10th June 2010, 16:03   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thelord View Post
Congrats jkdas! Another one smitten by the DLS sound.
Is this the C6A set?

If you got spare channels on the amp, then bi-amping is the best way to go.
Otherwise, you can just bi-wire the set. i.e. connect the output from the amp to the mid-bass cross over input and connect it with the tweeter cross over input using normal speaker wire.
Yes, its the C6A.

Spare channel? I have a 4 channel amp, use all for these and run rear from HU?
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Old 10th June 2010, 19:47   #118
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Default Performance C6A - 2-way system 6,5 inches

More pix of the Performance C6A - 2-way system 6,5 inches


It's specs

Woofer size 16,5 cm (6,5")
Tweeter T20, 20 mm (0,8") silk dome tweeter
Power handling capacity 60 W RMS / 90 W max
Impedance 4 ohm
Frequency range 50 - 20.000 Hz
Sensitivity 93 dB (1W/1m)
Outer diameter of woofer 165 mm (6,5")
Magnet size 80 mm (3,15")
Mounting depth 63 mm (2,48")
Crossover Cable filter with slope LP: 6 dB, HP: 12 dB
Crossover point (Hz) 5000 Hz
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Old 10th June 2010, 20:12   #119
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Post deleted by the Team-BHP Support : Please do NOT post one-liners that add little or no informational value to the thread. We need your co-operation to maintain the overall quality of this forum.

Please read our rules before proceeding any further.

Last edited by GTO : 11th June 2010 at 13:19.
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Old 12th June 2010, 01:23   #120
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Exactly! That'll give you a lot more control over the tweeter.
I think the rears should run sufficiently fine through the HU.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkdas View Post
Yes, its the C6A.

Spare channel? I have a 4 channel amp, use all for these and run rear from HU?
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