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Old 6th November 2008, 00:25   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muneemmk View Post
...Also an after market HU will Make a World of difference to this setup, if it is currently running with Factory fitted integrated HUs
This I really know but I just dont want to mess the new, I hope you all remember what I said in the beginning of the tread.
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Old 12th November 2008, 23:41   #62
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well I got the car today after some fine tuning by the C.A.P guys and also ended up adding some Damping stuff. The ICE is perfect now.
The real good news is the Dash kit for the 2008 Accord which i will receive shortly which allows me to go in for the Aftermarket HU's. Need to start saving seriously for the HU, Mono block, Sub phew..
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Old 7th July 2009, 00:55   #63
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Time for the Monoblock amplfier and the subwoofer.
Could you tell me what WATTAGE I should be loking out for the amp and the SUB?
Should end up with Good Bass.
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Old 7th July 2009, 02:39   #64
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Dude to do any kind of justice to the current setup that you have you need to get a better source unit,if it's a double din then it wouldn't mess up the whole look either, and if's a touch screen LCD it would add to the bling too .

Sub and amp ? A 600 watts mono block coupled to a sub with a similar power handling and impendence would be adequate for your current setup.But that depends entirely on your listening preference and also on how much you are thinking about splurging.Steer clear off the Focal's low end subs ,have heard it and it sounds lousy(boomy and loose).Of course RF,Kicker,MTX,Audison,ID everyone has their own set of subs and monoblocks choose wisely .
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Old 7th July 2009, 09:06   #65
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Muneem,
The HU cannot be touched for now until they come up with some other ideas to what the current display can be done if I change the HU.
350 x 1 amp = what should be the sub capacity is my question.
How are focal Amps?
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Old 7th July 2009, 10:00   #66
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Choosing a Sub and Amp. I feel it lot depends on what power you driving to your comps first. In some cases even 150-200 rms of power for the sub is enough for the SQ purpose. If you want the bass should be felt at your lower back when seated in front. Than around 250-300 rms will do a good job. If double this to 500 rms one will see increase of 3db in sound level. Incase of 1000 from 500 add another 3db.
Most importantly it all depends on how you want to hear the bass and as how much you want. If looking for pure SQ purpose 250rms to your sub should be good.

For a 350 rms amp ideally choose a sub that has nominal rating of 350-400rms, max 450 or 175-200rms per voice coil.

Last edited by Invinsible : 7th July 2009 at 10:07.
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Old 7th July 2009, 12:18   #67
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@Invinsible, that was a really good way of explaining it :. Perhaps the only thing that is missing is associating sub impedance with the amp's power delivery at that impedance.
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Old 7th July 2009, 13:24   #68
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Quote:
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@Invinsible, that was a really good way of explaining it :. Perhaps the only thing that is missing is associating sub impedance with the amp's power delivery at that impedance.
Well my friend I was talking about total power output irrespective of the impedence. 250-500rms at 4ohms would be ideally the best choice. As far as my knowledge goes, best would be to run at 4ohms for good overall SQ bass.
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Old 7th July 2009, 16:09   #69
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@Invinsible - thank you for the explanation.

75 x 4 is what I feed my front components and rear coaxials.
So the hunt for a 300 -350W RMS amp and 400 w sub starts.I will stick to 12" in a box.
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Old 7th July 2009, 17:23   #70
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Is there any kinda budget for the amp and sub?
I would suggest look in for a AB class 2 channel and bridge it.
Incase you are looking for mono there are many choices but it would be difficult to find a AB 2 channel which does 300 rms. I suppose even upto 250 should be good.

Also, try keeping the sub output as close to the RMS rating of the amp or vice-versa.

Last edited by Invinsible : 7th July 2009 at 17:28.
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Old 7th July 2009, 17:50   #71
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Why not a Class D amp, @invinsible?

Tough choice, isn't it? If sub is more powerful than amp, you get to hear distortion a loud volumes. If amp is more powerful, you get to smell smoke. So what should one do to allow for loud transients?
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Old 7th July 2009, 18:18   #72
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A small amount of head room should always be considered.
Most amps are rated at 14.4V while in the real world your car's battery gives around 12.5-13V.

So a 50 odd W rms difference would not matter.
In very high rated subs, this difference could be around 100w rms.
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Old 7th July 2009, 18:23   #73
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Oh common this has been discussed so many time on the forum 250 rms sub can it handle 500 rms, 250 rms amp can handle 500 rms sub. Or is it bad to hook a 500 rms sub from a 500rms amp.
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Old 7th July 2009, 18:30   #74
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300w rms.
You might look at the Infinity 1600a.

400w at 4 ohms.
You can look at Ground Zero 30T sub.
400w rms.
4 ohm SVC and its available for 8k.

Great VFM sub.
and Infinity makes some really good amplifiers.

Last edited by abhinav.gupta88 : 7th July 2009 at 18:31.
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Old 7th July 2009, 18:38   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
Why not a Class D amp, @invinsible?

Tough choice, isn't it? If sub is more powerful than amp, you get to hear distortion a loud volumes. If amp is more powerful, you get to smell smoke. So what should one do to allow for loud transients?
Am sure you have the answer to do that I always keep the gap between sub and amp close 10-15%. So if the amp is doing 250, I would stick to a sub that does between 250-300Rms. One could smell smoke in long term even when the sub is under powered.
For some reason I have always preferred the sound from class AB than Digital amplifiers although the class d are more efficient.
What could be the reason behind the makers of high end amplifiers using Class A or AB or G technology for running the speakers?
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