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Old 16th May 2009, 16:42   #136
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AFAIK there is NO disadvantage in using good quality home wiring. spending 13k and 15k on mere wiring kits is something i can never digest. i say, GO ahead. finolex/havells/polycab do the job fine. in fact they should do the job better, since they are meant to carry much much more current than the ones that are specifically meant for car audio. see, really bad unbranded wiring might be bad for your car or its electricals, but I dont see any difference in having a 13k wiring kit and 1k power wire. beats me why there's such a big fuss over this!
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Old 16th May 2009, 16:48   #137
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You yourself has given the answer in your qustion finolex and polycab are made for house/industrial use not for automobile.

See its very difficult to tell the difference between the 2 (atleast for me), there has been big discussions on the same. i will say if both are same then why company like audison,kicker,monster,ground zero,stinger, manufacture them.
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Old 16th May 2009, 18:42   #138
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There are no pros and cons as such.
I am using Finolex 0 gauge without an issue at all.
Go for it.
No problems with it.
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Old 16th May 2009, 19:17   #139
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I'm using Finolex 0 gauge.. perfect VFM.

Can I ask here how many people would be able to tell the difference in SQ while using high end wires and finolex? High end wires for power and ground are just another product that has a LOT of margin..thats the WHOLE relevance. Dont compromise on RCAs though!
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Old 16th May 2009, 19:33   #140
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Yes.
Don't compromise on RCA.
My RCAs are almost as much as a Normal Pioneer HU. (3050)

5000 for a set of 3
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Old 16th May 2009, 23:49   #141
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NO NO NO!!!

Please guys let's not start a war here. There are certain facts to this wiring thing.

Companies like Finolex, Anchor, Havells and Polycab make wire. They make damn good wire too, which is why we want such brands in our homes.

HOWEVER: Please remember that the environment we're dealing with here is that of a car. The power cable attaching to a battery terminal in the engine bay which exposes it to a high level of heat as well as dry air. If you notice, the branded car specific wiring kits have extra coating. As far as some top brands as Kicker and Audison are concerned, they go a step further in adding a heat resistant coat over the first 2-4' of wire. The regular Havells or Finolex coatings would probably discintigrate over time being exposed to the harsh conditions innate to an automobile.

I have no question that these can carry current just as well as any branded kit out there (Hell this is just wire we're talking about, tech that's been around for well over a century) However it's things like this additional thicker coating, audio specific design etc which lean me towards the branded kits.

Lastly I would like to add that having spent so much on the equipment, I feel (My opinion) that you're doing a great injustice to your ICE by not giving it the best.

DocG (Let the flaming begin!)

EDIT:
I have major question to the Finolex fanboys here. Why not run Finolex power and ground wires, and then get whatever gauge Finolex wire and add RCA connectors to that? I mean you guys love the wire, it'll cut costs dramatically! Why is it that you're running expensive branded RCAs? [Thought I'd throw that out there!]

Last edited by DocG : 16th May 2009 at 23:52.
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Old 17th May 2009, 00:05   #142
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Sigh.

He buys an expensive monoblock and now he's saving on the wire. lol.

First: You need 2 gauge ONLY if you're running a single cable to a distribution block and splitting it into 2 X 4 gauge wires for both your amplifiers.

The CA1500 mono is a class D amplifier and will not need a 2 gauge wire.

Take my advice and run separate 4 gauge wires to each amplifier (CA 470 and CA 1500). This is experience talking.
If you want to do it, run a single 2 gauge wire, a distribution block and then split it to both amplifiers.

I would recommend car audio cable, but if you end up using Polycab 25 sqmm (which is 4 AWG) the mono amplifier should work fine. Use the same wire to chassis for grounding too. Its a decent compromise.

Don't compromise on RCA cabling.

Last edited by Sam Kapasi : 17th May 2009 at 00:09.
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Old 17th May 2009, 00:18   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocG View Post
I have major question to the Finolex fanboys here. Why not run Finolex power and ground wires, and then get whatever gauge Finolex wire and add RCA connectors to that? I mean you guys love the wire, it'll cut costs dramatically! Why is it that you're running expensive branded RCAs? [Thought I'd throw that out there!]
Doc,

There is a major difference between current carrying power cables and line level audio cables.

Line level audio sine wave signals are far susceptible to change, electro-magnetic interference and signal loss (and much more). It is the transfer of an AC wave that is a few millivolts and highly, highly sensitive sound frequencies being transferred across 5 to 6 metres.

This critical audio signal will eventually get amplified many times for you to be able to hear it. Any noise or unwanted signal picked up along the way will get equally amplified.
Also the quality of the signal itself and the conducting properties of the RCA cable (which connects the source to the amplifier) determines the quality of the final output.

The Power cable, on the other hand, has to ensure that the 12V DC signal is brought to the power terminal of the amplifier. It is carrying pure flat DC which is less susceptible to the above. Also the object of the cable is to transfer the highest possible current in the least possible time (transient time differences between decently constructed power cables is not a major factor, not unless you end up with a super cheap metal instead of copper) and offer the least possible resistance. Internal inductance is not a factor as the signal being carried is pure DC.

What are factors in power cabling are: reliability, quality of the conducting alloy being used, quality of the winding of the cable (influencing flexibility) and the outer sheath insulation (again factors for outer sheath are flexibility, heat resistance, weather resistance and more)

It would be incorrect to compare both uses.

Last edited by Sam Kapasi : 17th May 2009 at 00:20.
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Old 17th May 2009, 00:19   #144
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@ docg i think all this what you had posted i have read it on some other forum, are you by chance member of some other forum with some other handle.
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Old 17th May 2009, 00:56   #145
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Do You wear Leather shoes for Jogging??? Do You Wear a raincoat to protect yourself from the Sun??

Some Stuff are meant to be used in the places they are designed for, There must be some reason that companies like Stinger/Audison/Kicker design power cables to be used specifically for car audio installations right??

Anyways, For me Wiring is the base for any car audio setup, I am ready to compromise on Drivers and other stuff but not Wiring, Thats my basic principle. Rest household wiring is being used by many on this forum and endorsed by some Senior Audio Gurus as well, So you can go ahead with it.
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Old 17th May 2009, 02:15   #146
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@Sam: thanks for the explanation. Was not aware of that, thought wire was wire.
@KK: yeah i'm present in many a forum, but never posted the above
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Old 17th May 2009, 09:34   #147
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I didn't want to compromise on any thing. It was just that I did not find the difference between the two. I already have the polycab cable with me, But i'm not going to use that. I would get a decent amp wiring kit and then install them.

I'm using scoche RCA's with the CA470. I find no problems, do you guys want me to change that too? and tell me if there are any more weak links in my setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi View Post
Sigh.

He buys an expensive monoblock and now he's saving on the wire. lol.
Nothing like that, saving now and compromising on quality is not a good idea for me right now. I just thought if there is no harm using them, there is no harm saving a few bucks. I should blame only T-Bhp for where it is taking me now!
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Old 17th May 2009, 11:55   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi View Post
Take my advice and run separate 4 gauge wires to each amplifier (CA 470 and CA 1500). This is experience talking.
If you want to do it, run a single 2 gauge wire, a distribution block and then split it to both amplifiers.
Sam what's the difference between running the power through a distribution block and then to both the amps vs. running individual power cables?

In your experience have you noticed any detrimental effects/ loss of SQ/ inefficiency?

Please all gurus would really like a comprehensive answer to the above question, it's just so intriguing!

DocG
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Old 17th May 2009, 13:23   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocG View Post
Sam what's the difference between running the power through a distribution block and then to both the amps vs. running individual power cables?

In your experience have you noticed any detrimental effects/ loss of SQ/ inefficiency?

Please all gurus would really like a comprehensive answer to the above question, it's just so intriguing!

DocG
Yup, Even I want to know this, Can we Run Individual Power cables for each AMP from the battery, rather Than One Big cable and then splitting it using distribution blocks??
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Old 17th May 2009, 13:26   #150
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i had 2 cables running from the amp to the 2 amplifiers. 2 fuses and 2 wires= added protection.
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