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Old 1st March 2009, 12:58   #1
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Default Help i20 pre-installed audio systems (How do i improve the sound quality)

Hello All,

I am new to Team-Bhp and a toddler on this site, I would require your help in a few queries of mine.

I have booked an i20 ASTA last month and now on the process of restless waiting. I should get it on or before the 15th of March. The car has a pre-installed audio system (Standard) with 4 speakers and 2 tweeters. I would like to increase the sound quality of the audio within a limited budget. I may not be able to change the head-unit due to cost constraints, but I can change the rear door speakers and add an amp depending on what specification is best (your recomendation).

It is a 6 inch door speaker and 240 watts (dealer said so), can you help me with alternate speakers with increased output and clarity.

This is going to be the 3rd car for the house and I really do not want to spend on changing the double din company fitted system.

Please Help Me with a few alterations to achive good sound

Thanks in advance.

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Old 1st March 2009, 21:52   #2
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Help us with your budget. I would recommend you to change the fronts to components and rears to 6x9 or similar . Brands ranging from JBL / Illusion / Bull Audio etc if you are looking for something in the 10-12k budget.
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Old 2nd March 2009, 12:18   #3
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Help us with your budget. I would recommend you to change the fronts to components and rears to 6x9 or similar . Brands ranging from JBL / Illusion / Bull Audio etc if you are looking for something in the 10-12k budget.
Well, 12k should be fine. Will my system give that required out put? Also, one more thing.... Will my steering wheel remote (Custom fitted) and on dash audio LCD display work if I change the head unit?
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Old 2nd March 2009, 17:06   #4
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1. Change the front speakers to better components. 5-6k!
(Jbl CS/GTO series, bull audio, Hertz Dieci series, Illusion audio electra series, etc..)
2. Get a good 4channel amp. 5-6k!
(Kenwood, Pioneer, Jbl etc..)

In the 12k budget, this is it. You can add a sub for another 3-4k to the above setup if you wish.
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Old 2nd March 2009, 18:56   #5
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If you change your HU , you will loose the Steering control but something can be done about it ( Have seen in one of the CR-V by Gunbir of a IR interface to control the HU with the steering remote)
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Old 3rd March 2009, 10:41   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hand Break! View Post
I would like to increase the sound quality of the audio within a limited budget. I may not be able to change the head-unit due to cost constraints, but I can change the rear door speakers and add an amp depending on what specification is best (your recomendation).

It is a 6 inch door speaker and 240 watts (dealer said so), can you help me with alternate speakers with increased output and clarity.

This is going to be the 3rd car for the house and I really do not want to spend on changing the double din company fitted system.
Quote:
Originally Posted by abhinav.gupta88 View Post
If you change your HU , you will loose the Steering control
1. step 1 damping. you will be surprised ho much a difference damping makes.
2. if you change your speakers you mgiht find the sound a bit too bright. This is what happened when I change the stock speakers in my wife's car and retained the same HU. The HU had a huge boost in the HF to compensate for the limitaions of the stock speaker. there are various solutions to this
a) reduce the treble on the HU - this might not be enough
b) The XO on many speakers has a stetting to reduce the HF usually parked as '-3db' so use this setting in conjunction with the HU settings
c) if the above is not enough a 3rd option is to use an ipod with the 'treble reducer' setting as your source.
all other alternates are expensive (20K+).
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Old 3rd March 2009, 11:12   #7
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Thanks abhinav, speedzak and navin. Well, i guess i need to futher my budget a little bit. Whats a car without good audio I will keep you guys posted on the changes that i will be making...
Thanks once again
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Old 8th July 2009, 17:50   #8
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Hand break - have you done any upgrades yet? I'm about to buy one too!

EDIT: Another question - is it even possible to add 6x9 speakers to the rear? I'm sure you can't do that without messing up the parcel tray? And will that void the warranty in any way?

Last edited by reppy : 8th July 2009 at 17:52.
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Old 8th July 2009, 20:59   #9
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Quote:
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... is it even possible to add 6x9 speakers to the rear? I'm sure you can't do that without messing up the parcel tray? And will that void the warranty in any way?
Define "messing up"!?

Sure, 6x9's can be mounted, albeit one needs to either cut the existing parcel tray (not really a good idea, since it is rather flimsy for the purpose unless strengthened very well), or replace it with an MDF board cut to size. This is very common and most installers do a pretty decent job. You might even get a ready made (for i20, Swift etc.) decently strengthened one with the installer. You will find plenty of pics of such installations here.

The only drawback is that the MDF board will stay in place when you raise the hatch, as it is rather too heavy to be lifted by the cords provided with the OE tray.
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Old 8th July 2009, 21:57   #10
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Define "messing up"!?

The only drawback is that the MDF board will stay in place when you raise the hatch, as it is rather too heavy to be lifted by the cords provided with the OE tray.
i have a heavy mdf board in my santro with a pair of 6*9 on them, connected to the hatch door. it lifts well (goes up on its own) and stays up. i assume the same will apply to the i20.

UM
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Old 8th July 2009, 22:15   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
The only drawback is that the MDF board will stay in place when you raise the hatch, as it is rather too heavy to be lifted by the cords provided with the OE tray.
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Originally Posted by UniqueMods View Post
i have a heavy mdf board in my santro with a pair of 6*9 on them, connected to the hatch door. it lifts well (goes up on its own) and stays up. i assume the same will apply to the i20.
It all depends on how heavy the MDF is. In my wife's old Corsa-Sail the rear board was made of FRP (instead of MDF) and 4 6" Vifa woofers were mounted on it. Still the elastic cords that connected the board to the hatch were not strong enough. So I fabricated stiffer cord but then the board would not lift.

Eventually the problem was resolved using a compound sub.
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Old 8th July 2009, 23:00   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UniqueMods View Post
i have a heavy mdf board in my santro with a pair of 6*9 on them, connected to the hatch door. it lifts well (goes up on its own) and stays up. i assume the same will apply to the i20.

UM
would love to see the pics, can you please post the pics or the link to pics if they are already here.
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Old 9th July 2009, 12:16   #13
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would love to see the pics, can you please post the pics or the link to pics if they are already here.
will upload the pic by evening. there is a hook thing on the right inner side of the door, below the hydrolic door arm. other end is connected to the MDF board. connector used is a round type, little elastic i-card holder rope.

UM
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Old 9th July 2009, 14:50   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
... Eventually the problem was resolved using a compound sub.
Errr.. hmmmm! Aaaaah - pooss-pool! ( Unh-hunh. Isobarik?). Photu nathi?

Last edited by DerAlte : 9th July 2009 at 14:51.
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Old 12th July 2009, 13:04   #15
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pics of mdf board cord.
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